Need input please

Greetings!

I'm new here and relatively new to Volvos. I bought an 88 244 dl. Trans was shot so I swapped the m46 for the beat up m47. Onto my next question and project... I'm looking for this to be my daily driver and I want ~20+mpg. I have a 98 s70 turbo parts car at my house. Is the whiteblock swap worth it? Or would I be better browsing for a turbo 740 in my sane generation?
I don't want to set land records but I'd like decent pick up and reliable mpg. Thanks in advance

Turbocharging your current engine is the easiest option. The only issue for you is you have to convert the ignition side over to the ezk setup. You can source all the turbo bits from 740/760/780/940 turbo models.

So you want more mileage but you also want more performance? That's a good combo that is possible. But I would think you would want to change the engine management to something with more turning available. Like the LH2.4 for example.

Your engine is in what kind of condition? Do a compression check and find out. A worn engine won't deliver what you want. If your engine is ok then it is probably a good candidate.

A white block swap could also deliver what you want. But the cost up front isn't going to be as affordable or as easy as a B230F+T for a mileage and power upgrade.

How is the driveline? Driveshaft support bearing ok? Rear wheel bearings good? Good tires help, too.

Backstory on the car is, I bought it for 400. The guy I bought the car from replaced the brake system, new tires(receipts to verify), virgin engine and trans system(until I put the m46 in- couldn't find a m47 local). I will have my buddy(owns a shop) check out the bearings you mentioned.

What I have immediate access to:
Current engine in the car
93 240 wagon(wife's car rear ended)

Overall scope:
Plan for turbo is a 6-8 month goal. Plan is to clean up and rebuild the engine before completing the +t conversion. Longevity and dependability is the main goal.

I found great information on the ezk conversion. If I use the 93 engine what swap would be necessary to support the hall sensor to crank sensor as well as +t.?

One last note the turbo I plan to use is off of a '91 740. And the car is complete(tboned and missing lights/misc interior parts)

I joined this site with the same intention as you, to make a 240 more drive-able. Unlike you I already had an idea and a plan. I have done lots of research so I needed more technical data to accomplish my swap. Its been 2 years since the swap and I have loved every mile.

My car is a 1990 240 and I put the power plant in from a 92 740 and mated that to a M47.

Fuel economy is great I was actually surprised that I can milk 28 mpgs out of it, but in the same breath I can also get on it and get it down in the 18's so depending on how you drive it will depend on the economy you can get.

Only mod I have done was a MBC and have it set at 12 psi.

2 years later and many of loads hauled I have put 15k on it since the swap and love it so much I am working on another one.



The 93 engine is a great start its a squirter block, thats what I am using for my next build.

I found a good donor car. Body is damaged and trans went out. It's an 89 740. I'm converting the ignition this week(if weather permits) then I'll start pulling the plumbing and bolt ons from the 740 before pulling the engine. Thev740 was auto, will the ecu work for my car(manual trans) or will I have to modify the ecu. Bad example but I know with Hondas you have to remove two pins and jump from one to the other in order for ecu to work.

Why do you feel the need to rebuild engine? If you're going to use the engine from an 89 740, it has weaker connecting rods. It's better to find a 90 and up turbo engine. I would use the engine from your wife's car(93 block has bigger connecting rods and oil squirters). You're not looking to make big power, why spend more money if you don't have to. The ecus will work. The car doesn't know the difference.

My main concern is convenient of not drilling into the block, etc.the 93 engine is in good shape but I don't want to go through it all then something on the bottom end gives out.

Bproof said:

My main concern is convenient of not drilling into the block, etc.the 93 engine is in good shape but I don't want to go through it all then something on the bottom end gives out.

Click to expand...

Understand....as someone who has drilled for the oil drain with the engine in the car, it is not easy. Since you are talking about rebuilding an engine that '93 engine is a great place to start. Drill for the turbo oil drain when its out of the car......its a drill and tap situ at that point.

I'm with white855T, you already have the '93 engine, use it.

I’m going to be all alpine but my 87 244 either the 9mm rods still rung greatwith 387,000 and compression is still 200-204 psi. With ac rapid fire plugs it got 28 mpg highway all day long 65-70 mph. I was getting ready to do a plus T so I did the ezk swap and mileage wet down to 23-24 mpg. All with a AW70 and 3.73 rear gear. Wish I had left it alone but car is now wrecked by a little old 78 year old lady and in the back yard. Fix and tune what you have. 93 or any 90 up will have 13mm rods which is a bigger deal than squirters if. I have a 93 244 to replace my 87 and it’s a great car but the 87 has a special place place in my heart since I got it new