• Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
    You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here

    Thank you for being a part of our community!

My '78 242 L33 turbo build

Ok, thanks man, I'll look into it more.

The car will be 95% street monster with occasional drag racing, and I'd like to try some autocrossing again, I've only done 2 and that was in a very poor handling/extremely overpowered 740T. It was a lot of fun, tons of tire smoke but very slow haha. I was driving the car a lot right now until it recently developed a really strong odor of gasoline, like 20 feet around the car and I can't find where its coming from.
 
Put it in 2nd and go! Let those coilovers and brakes deal with the rest :) I don't care if I'm fast on the autocross, its just fun.
 
1KUfv7Xl.jpg

PUPPY!!:bouncy::clap::wiggle::love:
 
Don't worry. The dog isn't gonna lead him astray. As the real supervisor of the project the pup will make sure that it's a fun all around engine setup.
 
Haha, she's doing a great job. Also there will be no stock or unmodified part of the suspension, which if I don't screw up my settings, should help a lot. The real purpose of the car is to be a mean street car anyway.
 
Still collecting parts, quite a big pile now...the main issues now are the fuel system and the rear.

I want a new built 9" from Moser with a Wavetrac. Apparently no one makes mounting brackets for that, but it can't be that hard to figure out. The main issue is the width, it seems people use 55" but that would mean I need to use wheel spacers. If I make it wider the R brakes aren't in the right place anymore. I want to keep them and the stock 5x108 wheel bolt pattern.

The hangup with the fuel system is the stock rails are a non return style with no regulator. I want a return style system, so I need to change out the fuel rails. If I do that, I don't think the new fuel rails will fit on a different manifold, like an LS6 manifold, and I don't want to buy things twice...Change out manifold and rail now? The other aspect of changing the intake is my tune, its tuned for my custom cam, with the truck manifold. How much different will the tune have to be?

One other change I would like to make is the ugly valve covers, but haven't seen any for the COP setup this engine has. Might have to just live with those I guess.

Pointless pics for entertainment, my shop manager B asking for payment in treats in the last photo, my Flemish Giant bunny BB weighing in at about 20 lbs just hanging out
d06bLfPl.jpg


IcG3dgIl.jpg


kZOLYJKl.jpg
 
Get a regulator and use the stock rail, and don't waste money on a different intake. Get a 8.8 and have it redrilled for a Volvo pattern. Personally I believe you're over thinking it. Even the "returnless" systems had fuel pressure regulators in the system. Also up until I wanna say 2001 the pickups had return style fuel systems with a regulator on the rail.
 
Pm'd about rail.

I may be overthinking it, I definitely don't want to under-think stuff and have to redo it later, I want overkill built into everything.
I'm pretty sure you don't "just redrill for Volvo bolt pattern" on the 8.8, you have to find one in good shape with the correct ratio in it, cut one side down, order the proper axle which could have the correct pattern so might as well order 2, buy and install the Wavetrac, make mounts, and that's just the stuff I've read, there is probably something I don't know yet.
8.8 is probably the way to go cost wise, and people put a lotta power through them, I guess I should do more research. My neighbor has what I think is an 8.8 he said I could have for free, I gotta figure out exactly what its is.
 
Pm'd about rail.

I may be overthinking it, I definitely don't want to under-think stuff and have to redo it later, I want overkill built into everything.
I'm pretty sure you don't "just redrill for Volvo bolt pattern" on the 8.8, you have to find one in good shape with the correct ratio in it, cut one side down, order the proper axle which could have the correct pattern so might as well order 2, buy and install the Wavetrac, make mounts, and that's just the stuff I've read, there is probably something I don't know yet.
8.8 is probably the way to go cost wise, and people put a lotta power through them, I guess I should do more research. My neighbor has what I think is an 8.8 he said I could have for free, I gotta figure out exactly what its is.

you have read wayyyy too much and are way overthinking this. A lot of 2nd gen explorer 8.8s already have 3.73 gears in them and also have limited slips. You only have to shorten one side of the housing and to match the short side. Then you just use 2 short side axles. Then what you do is take your 2 short side axles and send them do Dutchman and have them filled and drilled to 5x108 for $130. Cut off stock brackets and weld them to the housing. Bolt that **** in.
 
Haha, I think you are probably correct about reading too much and overthinking...thanks for bringing me back to earth guys! I'll start looking for an 8.8
 
"....return line?" Return from where? All the systems use back pressure regulators -- some have the regulator on/near the rail -- which means the 'return line' has to go from there all the way back to the tank. Some have what they call a "Corvette style" filter/regulator almost always mounted back by the tank. Which means the return line only has to run a foot or two from the regulator/filter back to the tank. A rose by any other name....

There are other downsides to the 9" rearend. It's heavier and will have more parasitic loss than a properly set up 8.8". Now, if you NEED the strength of the 9" to manage BIG torque outputs -- then you need it. But for what you're building, a properly set up 8.8" should work just fine. Saving you money, weight and some driveline loss. On mine, we cut the tube ends off the Dana 30/Volvo rearend and welded them on the Ford tubes. That allows the use of all the Volvo braking components in their stock locations. Moser made up a set of 31 spline axles in the proper length with 5x108mm spacing on the studs. There's a Timken axle bearing from an old Chrysler/Plymouth application (if memory serves) that fits the Moser axle and the Dana30 tube end. Allowed me to keep my wheels/brakes - which was the way I wanted to do it. Lots of ways to skin this cat.

I think that dog wants to eat that bunny.
 
Back
Top