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LH 2.4 swap. Runs on brake clean, no injector pulse

S

Scuby

New member
Joined
Sep 6, 2015
Location
The Netherlands
The title says it. Runs on brake clean but no injector pulse. I've been reading threads for 3 days and can't find a similar issue. hence my post.



converting a k-jet 245 wagon to LH2.4 with a b230fk.

Converted the Ezk to wasted spark.

Using late model 245 engine wiring harness. Wired injector resistors inline to injecotrs 12v feed. Engine was pulled runing out of the donor few weeks ago.

Relocated MAF sensor wiring etc.

Will run on brake clean. So we have spark. Fuel pressure is at 3 bar.

Won't kick or sputter. home made noid light on injectors shows suspected no injector pulse.

Have the 11 pin plug wired 12v+ (temporarily) to pin 1, 3, 8, 10, 11. Diagnostic shows 1-1-1-1 after cranking. Shows nothing with CPS disconnected.

As will run on brake clean, where to look next for injectors? I'm assuming I made a mistake in thise area. What I did was cut the 12v feed in the 245 harness, supply 940 injector resistor pack with 12v and feed each injector off the four green wires.

Any insights or obvious mistakes I'm overlooking?

thanks in advance.
 
Scuby said:
What I did was cut the 12v feed in the 245 harness, supply 940 injector resistor pack with 12v and feed each injector off the four green wires.
Click to expand...
The original injector wire from the ECU in the harness grounds all 4 injectors simultaneously. You need to keep that wiring intact. The original NA injectors then have the other side wired to +12v. This side you need to rewire with 4 wires to the resistor pack, and the 5th (or 5th and 6th) common resistor pack wire goes to +12v. I'd start with verifying that you have +12v on the resistor pack.

Edit: do you get diag code 1-1-1 on both ECU and EZK (pins 2 and 6 of diag block)?
 
Scuby said:
The title says it. Runs on brake clean but no injector pulse.

Converted the Ezk to wasted spark.

Using late model 245 engine wiring harness. Wired injector resistors inline to injecotrs 12v feed. Engine was pulled runing out of the donor few weeks ago.

Relocated MAF sensor wiring etc.

As will run on brake clean, where to look next for injectors? I'm assuming I made a mistake in thise area. What I did was cut the 12v feed in the 245 harness, supply 940 injector resistor pack with 12v and feed each injector off the four green wires.
Click to expand...


Somewhere in there you went horribly awry.
 
bobxyz said:
The original injector wire from the ECU in the harness grounds all 4 injectors simultaneously. You need to keep that wiring intact. The original NA injectors then have the other side wired to +12v. This side you need to rewire with 4 wires to the resistor pack, and the 5th (or 5th and 6th) common resistor pack wire goes to +12v. I'd start with verifying that you have +12v on the resistor pack.

Edit: do you get diag code 1-1-1 on both ECU and EZK (pins 2 and 6 of diag block)?
Click to expand...

Thanks.

I did. I cut the 12v feed to the injectors and replaced with feeds from the resistor pack. left the grounds alone. didn't touch them.

The common blue wire feeding the resistors is on 12v. The resistor pack has 12v and I can verify 12v to the resistors themselves as there a pin at the top that feeds each resistor. Outgoing green wires feed the 12v on the injectors.

I'll check codes.

Intersting side note: With the diagnostic jumper on 2 and three presses of the button it will test the injectors and the IAC (thnks youtube)

It seems to have three fases. 1 burst of led pulses, this does nothing (since discovered this would test the electric fan, not installed, good to know). a second burst, which get's all four of my injectors firing, a third slower on/of on/of on/of whcih works the IAC which mine responds to.

What are the two bursts? Also. After conducting this test, turn the key and it fires up for a second burning the fuel that just was injected during the test.

So, now what? working injectors. Timing isn't off. runs smooth on brake clean, Does the ecu need some kind of feedback to go ahead and fire the injectors I've overlooked?
 
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I don't have my notes here, so this is from memory (perhaps faulty).

The first output diag may be fuel pump on/off.

You're running with brake cleaner so you're getting good CPS readings and EZK works.

You're able to trigger injectors in test mode so they're OK. (You have the low impedance Turbo injectors installed, not the original NA high impedance injectors?)

I'd check the temporary +12v to the 11-pin cabin connector -- what signals are you jumpering? Can you try without the temporary jumpers? I think you have one too many pins jumpered, but I'd need to check my notes at home.
 
bobxyz said:
I don't have my notes here, so this is from memory (perhaps faulty).

The first output diag may be fuel pump on/off.

You're running with brake cleaner so you're getting good CPS readings and EZK works.

You're able to trigger injectors in test mode so they're OK. (You have the low impedance Turbo injectors installed, not the original NA high impedance injectors?)

I'd check the temporary +12v to the 11-pin cabin connector -- what signals are you jumpering? Can you try without the temporary jumpers? I think you have one too many pins jumpered, but I'd need to check my notes at home.
Click to expand...

I think you are on to something. It has to be incorrect feedback to the ecu.

I have the turbo injectors installed with the resistors in line. Running diagnostics triggers them.

I can go back and check what I have jumpered on the 5 wires needed on the white 11 pin cabin connector...
 
People have had probs with the ignition switch not supplying 12v during cranking. It's only 4 wires to make it run...
 
I found a Late 93 diagram with the 24 pin connector, but I think the first 11 pins are the same as the 92.

Pin3 should be yel/red power from the main relay in the engine harness to the fuel pumps. Do you have this wire installed? If not, are you jumpering the cabin side wire, not the engine harness side, to +12v? Without this, your fuel pumps won't run.

What Bosch part numbers are your ECU/EZK? I don't know the details of the late model immobilizer boxes and what keeps them happy.
 
Yeah check make sure you got correct fuel pump relay, the white one. Make sure fuel pumps keep running while cranking or while it runs on starting fluid. You didn't say how you wired anything or what year harness you used.

Yeah that one wire to the starter trigger wire, power while cranking only.
 
sbabbs said:
Yeah check make sure you got correct fuel pump relay, the white one. Make sure fuel pumps keep running while cranking or while it runs on starting fluid. You didn't say how you wired anything or what year harness you used.

Yeah that one wire to the starter trigger wire, power while cranking only.
Click to expand...

I said I'm using a late model 245 wiring harness. Which has the white fuel pump relay. However this is staying on during cranking.

It's moot however as I'm not at the stage where i'm comfortable closing up the wiring loom neatly as I want it to run first.

so as a result I have the 12v feeds to the 11 pin connector on the battery. The origional in car wiring is running the fuel pumps at key on (it's a 76, they just keep running).

I'm using a remote starter switch so I can observe the engine bay and what's happening while cranking.

So, quick question that I can't find online: the wiring colors for the injectors: I have black with red market or white with green marker. Which way around are these wired from the factory? I made the assumption or followed the power feed, I can't remember it was 3am, that the black/red wires were the 12v feed and have wired those with resistors in place for turbo injectors. This is such simple wiring it has to be some dumb mistake. Is gr/wh the ECU ground trigger for the injectors? If no one knows I'll ohm out the wires and use the pinout as reference. Would be nice to save me the work.

I have 3 bar fuel pressure at the rail while cranking with running pumps.

EZK and ECU showing 1-1-1 using diagnostics

Injectors pulse when using diagnostics. So does IAC
 
bobxyz said:
I found a Late 93 diagram with the 24 pin connector, but I think the first 11 pins are the same as the 92.

Pin3 should be yel/red power from the main relay in the engine harness to the fuel pumps. Do you have this wire installed? If not, are you jumpering the cabin side wire, not the engine harness side, to +12v? Without this, your fuel pumps won't run.

What Bosch part numbers are your ECU/EZK? I don't know the details of the late model immobilizer boxes and what keeps them happy.
Click to expand...

On the ECU/EZK boxes it might help to mention I'm in europe, do they have in immobilizer function? never noticed it in the 940 they came out of. Although immobilizers always cut fuel in my experience.

EDIT: it's late 95/early 96 OBD1 car. Google yields immo being in the 940 wiring loom not ECU and very rudimentary.
 
I don't think the injectors care which way they're wired, but I'm not sure on this. Gn/Wt is ECU wire. R-Blk was original NA +12v wire, replaced with 4x green wires to r-pack.

Have you checked your intake manifold ground wires for good connection? The ECU uses a separate ground wire for high power circuits (including injectors). IIRC, there are 4 black wires coming out of the harness that go to 2 ring terminals (2 wires per ring).
 
bobxyz said:
I don't think the injectors care which way they're wired, but I'm not sure on this.

Have you checked your intake manifold ground wires for good connection? The ECU uses a separate ground wire for high power circuits (including injectors). IIRC, there are 4 black wires coming out of the harness that go to 2 ring terminals (2 wires per ring).
Click to expand...

Ecu/injectors won't care but if I have two 12v feeds as a result of my rewire... Ah, I see your edit. Well, that's wired up correctly then.

Those intake grounds are good. Double checked the thrice today...
 
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Early 96 are with immobiliser .
Please check the bosch number and post the number. I believe this is your problem.
If you swap a new "chip" , tuned or not, the immobilizer is passed by.
Good luck, Kay
 
If I were to design a rudimentary immobilizer, I'd wire it into the Park/Neutral interlock switch and make the ECU not inject fuel unless in Park/Neutral. I have no idea if this is what Volvo did.

For the 5-wire LH conversions, pin 9 pink wire is left unconnected. This is the P/N wire. Try connecting this to the starter side (versus battery side) of your remote start switch. Check the wiring diagrams to make sure this is OK (normally, it's wired to ignition switch pin 50, +12 during start only).
 
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