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Bleeding brakes after cadillac caliper install

Well so I held it in my hand, filled it with fluid, then pumped it with an extension. Added some more fluid. Stopped pumping when I didn't see any more bubbles. That counts as bench bleeding right?
Every master I've had to bleed required that I route the lines back into the reservoir, below the fluid level, and pump it slowly multiple times (10 or 12) to circulate fluid through the system.

I just finished an R-caliper upgrade on my 262C...had the exact same problem. Ended up performing a give-and-take operation whereby I would power bleed both bleeder screws at the same time, followed up with "aggressive" break pedal pumping. I probably went through an entire gallon of fluid (after a while you can retain it) in the process but she eventually bleed out all the air.

The stock master on mine was big enough to push all four R-calipers...i would think it was big enough to push a pair of caddy's and reman's...but you've got the Mustang master so, yeah....should be golden...
 
Every master I've had to bleed required that I route the lines back into the reservoir, below the fluid level, and pump it slowly multiple times (10 or 12) to circulate fluid through the system.

I just finished an R-caliper upgrade on my 262C...had the exact same problem. Ended up performing a give-and-take operation whereby I would power bleed both bleeder screws at the same time, followed up with "aggressive" break pedal pumping. I probably went through an entire gallon of fluid (after a while you can retain it) in the process but she eventually bleed out all the air.

The stock master on mine was big enough to push all four R-calipers...i would think it was big enough to push a pair of caddy's and reman's...but you've got the Mustang master so, yeah....should be golden...

This makes me feel slightly better.

It's a Dorman made master cylinder and only came with plugs for the two ports on the master. I thought it was weird too that it didn't have little tubes to reroute fluid back into the cylinder when you bench bleed it. I've got the ends of the old hard lines that I cut off so I'll pull the master off, make a little hose bleeder kit, and see if that helps anything. I'll try jacking up just the rear and see if that makes a difference too.
 
Took the master cylinder off and redid the bench bleed. I was able to get some air bubbles out so I might be onto something. Going to pizza with my wife and see if I feel like trying to bleed the system again tonight. Probably not though.
 
I just did a whole front and rear with R calipers with the stock master cylinder. I installed a Brand NEW and bench bleed it before I started bleeding the brakes using the petal method.

I also did a customers car just the R fronts this time and I had a huge problem with his brakes. The brakes kept locking up in the rear when I slammed on the brakes. The petal was SUPER soft, and almost felt like a bad master IMO. It took me a couple of hours bleeding the brakes trying figuring out the issue, so I replace all the old rubber brakes line replace it with SS ones that IPD sells and it helped 100%
 
So I've rebench bled the master and gone through a couple more bottles of brake fluid but still have a pedal that if I hold down on it sinks to the floor. I'm kind of at a loss as to what I need to do different or what I'm missing?

The order I've got is:
front left inner
front left outer
front right inner
front right outer
rear left
rear right

For the fronts I've been pumping the brake pedal 5 times after I open the bleeder valve as instructed by the green book.
 
I haven't installed a rod extension like dave barton did on his car. I don't think that's my problem but maybe?

240cayennecalipers13.jpg
 
That sucks.

I might open a beer, cut a bike inner tube, tie one end, place other end on master cylinder rolled over and hose clamped, inflate tube, then bleed RR, RL, FR, FL.

At the shop my favorite fluid pulling tool be the:

41ShrYRHz0L.jpg



That being said, the pulling method doesn't work the best. The best method is honestly somebody in the driver seat. I put a man in the air and we try to communicate the best we can and bleed the hell outta it. It should eventually work!
 
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I've got a firm pedal!

Okay I went to the hardware store and got a rod coupling in 1/4-20. The push rod on a 240 brake booster has a SAE bolt with ball cap so I was able to find a SAE to USS stud. I then screwed the SAE portion of the stud into the push rod then was able to screw the rod coupling onto that. Bolted the master cylinder back up and I've got a stiff pedal. ****ing finally.

I probably need to see if I can find a short SAE stud that I can put an acorn nut onto like the oem bolt but it works for now.
 
Yeah it helps when your rod depth is correct!

I personally don't have a Volvo rod depth measurer, but I do know it has to be correct'ish.

I have slapped master cylinders on without measuring and I guess I just got lucky, but to avoid this, I generally purchase a used master cylinder WITH booster from the junkyard together. It's something I have to do every 10 years or so!
 
Still think I need to play around with the rod length. I get a solid brake pedal but there's more travel in the pedal before the brakes engage than I'd like.
 
what rod length did you end up with? and does a 1/4-20 rod screw right on to the shaft?

I don't remember off the top of my head how long it was but it was just whatever they had at the store. Maybe 1"? It really doesn't need to be that long from what I remember.
 
^ This and or tap on the proportioning valves with the handle of a screwdriver while you bleed them to break up the bubbles.

Also after having the system open I always abandon the official order initially, and bleed the top fronts first, [air rises] and then the fronts so as to NOT send any air out back to be trapped in the proportioning valves.

& INB4 defective rebuilt calipers...

:-P

Every master I've had to bleed required that I route the lines back into the reservoir, below the fluid level, and pump it slowly multiple times (10 or 12) to circulate fluid through the system.

I just finished an R-caliper upgrade on my 262C...had the exact same problem. Ended up performing a give-and-take operation whereby I would power bleed both bleeder screws at the same time, followed up with "aggressive" break pedal pumping. I probably went through an entire gallon of fluid (after a while you can retain it) in the process but she eventually bleed out all the air.

The stock master on mine was big enough to push all four R-calipers...i would think it was big enough to push a pair of caddy's and reman's...but you've got the Mustang master so, yeah....should be golden...

I always start with hard lines looped and submerged when bench bleeding, then closest caliper first, farthest last.
 
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