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1980 242 GT. A reasonable project.

Have you considered stacking multiple oil restrictors in series? 0.030" may not be a small enough flow restriction at the kind of pressures these whiteblocks run.
These ball bearing turbos can survive down to as little as 0.5 L/min of oil flow at full load in my experience.
Factory oil return location on the engine should give you the best chance of success if it is still a drainage issue.
 
I said it once, I'll say it again. Those wastegate hard lines are beautiful.

Any reason for a single EGT probe instead of one per cylinder?

Honestly just for simplicity. I've never played with one before so I have no idea how well it will work out. If at some point I have a desire for EGT per cylinder, it's easy enough to add it.

I'm supprised how well that off the shelf manifold fits in the 2xx chassis. Nice work!

It really does fit surprisingly well... seemingly even better than in the application it was designed for.

This may be my favorite 240 ever. Well done.

Wow, thanks!

Have you considered stacking multiple oil restrictors in series? 0.030" may not be a small enough flow restriction at the kind of pressures these whiteblocks run.
These ball bearing turbos can survive down to as little as 0.5 L/min of oil flow at full load in my experience.
Factory oil return location on the engine should give you the best chance of success if it is still a drainage issue.

I can try adding a second restrictor at the oil feed location on the block. I've been hesitant to add more restriction to the feed purely out of fear that I will starve the turbo.

Hoping to get under the car tonight or tomorrow to investigate the feasibility of routing the drain back to the factory location above the oil level.
 
My oil pressure hovers at around 4 bar and the .035" restrictor I'm using works fine. I'd definitely look at the drain before anything else.

Car looks incredible, by the way.
 
This is not very encouraging. It doesn't look like I will be able to route a gravity return from the turbo to the factory location on the block. I'd rather not have to mess around with a scavenge pump, but perhaps it's getting to that point.

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For reference, here's the current return location on the wing of the oil pan. This location is below the oil level.

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If anyone has ideas, I'm all ears. Starting to feel a bit drained by these issues.

The next thing I can easily try is to add another restrictor in series, and hope that this truly is just an issue of too much oil being fed into the turbo.
 
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They need barely any oil. I don't want to push you into anything you're not comfortable with, but I'd give the series restrictors a try, even just temporarily, to gauge any improvement.

I don't think you have a PCV or blowby issue because with the drain configuration being as it is, and the outlet of the hose being below the oil level, it's de-coupled from crankcase pressure. In other words the oil in the pan should be acting as a barrier between crankcase pressure and the turbo's center housing, and your internal turbo oil drain cavity shouldn't have excess air pressure in it that would cause leakage. Unless of course the oil level drops below that location on the pan while the engine's running.
 
I will pick up an inline restrictor to add in series for testing.

Does the location of the second restrictor matter? (stacked directly on top of the existing restrictor at the turbo oil inlet vs at the block, etc)
 
Well how high is the oil level while running? That drain looks decent enough unless the oil level is all the way up there while running. Also what's your pcv situation. I know this may not relate but my ls turbo car would burn oil and smoke like crazy, I tried everything with it and ended up ripping the catch can out of it and venting to atmosphere. It immediately stopped smoking and hasn't burned any noticable amount of oil in the past 6k miles
 
Oil level while running I will have to check out.

The PCV uses a factory whiteblock setup, with the outlet of that plumbed into a Mann ProVent before returning into the pre-turbo intake pipe. The ProVent drains into the crankcase through a factory fitting at the top of the oil pan, and also has the proper Mann check valve in the drain line.

I have two baffled vents on the cam cover, but I blocked them off while troubleshooting to try to eliminate issues. Previously, I had oil being sucked out through the PCV system which was being returned back into the intake. That is no longer the case. The PCV return is bone-dry at the turbo inlet, and the ProVent has no oil in it.
 
The outlet of the S60R oil separator on the block is 5/8". I have a 5/8" hose running from that which then steps up to 3/4" and then 1" as it enters the ProVent. The outlet of the provent steps down from 1" to 7/8" right away, and then I have a 7/8" hose running all the way into the fitting at the turbo inlet.

TLDR: hose to provent is 5/8"--matching factory size
 
Just ordered an inline .035" 4an restrictor for testing. That combined with my other .035" restrictor, and vibrant restrictor with multiple orifices means I'll have all sort of ridiculous combinations at my disposal.


The restriction buffet includes...
  • .030"
  • .035"
  • .045"
  • .060"
  • .030" + .035"
  • .035" + .035"
  • .045" + .035"
  • .060" + .035"
 
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No, not smoking at idle.

I've primarily seen smoke while off-throttle, casually decelerating up to stop signs. This occurs with normal driving when I stay out of boost, but there is noticeably more smoke in this scenario after I've been in boost.


The last time I drove it, I had my brother follow me. He didn't notice a pattern to the smoke beyond a general correlation of "more fun = more smoke." There were a lot of curvy roads in the mix, but I was being pretty gentle with the throttle.
 
I checked all of the guides before putting the engine together, and had two replaced that were slightly out of spec. Also replaced all valve stem seals with new Genuine Volvo seals at that time.

If I let it idle for 15 min and then rev it up, it doesn't smoke (which I would expect if it was stem seals).
 
Blown out guides have the potential to show up on a leak down or compression test. Personally I would check running oil level and I believe you are on the right track with the restrictor idea. All else fails I would honestly try running the pcv system open and see what happens even on a quick road test.
 
I checked all of the guides before putting the engine together, and had two replaced that were slightly out of spec. Also replaced all valve stem seals with new Genuine Volvo seals at that time.

If I let it idle for 15 min and then rev it up, it doesn't smoke (which I would expect if it was stem seals).

Hrrrm. Fair enough. Go with what Erik says.
 
I've been working to prepare the car for the Eurowerks car show in Minneapolis this weekend. Unfortunately, I won't be able to take this car to the show as planned. On top of the persistent oil consumption issue, the car is now having trouble with cold starts and occasionally pushes some coolant out of the reservoir. :-(

One small improvement to share for posterity--5" coil spring isolators for the rear.

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I found these while pursuing ways to reduce NVH from the rear suspension. They do a good job of quieting things down and removing a bit of harshness on bumps. They fit quite well with standard 5" OD springs commonly used on the rear of the 240. The ID of the isolator is a snug fit around the Afco spring adjuster threads. I got them on Summit because I wanted them quickly, but you may be able to find them more cheaply elsewhere.

Energy Suspension Coil Spring Isolators 9.6107G
https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/ens-9-6107g/overview/
 
Bummer about the show, Tom. There's always more to catch. Is this a seasonal car for you? Sounds like you'll at least have something to do this winter :)
 
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