Is the LS4 oil pump one of the high flow variants (I'm guessing it is, since that engine had DoD)? There are some horror stories where under sustained high RPMs, the higher flow pumps drain the sump on smaller pans, on engines where the extra flow isn't required (ie, non DoD). If you're just drag racing and cruising, it probably won't cause a problem...
It's worth noting that since the crank pulley comes off to do the cam and oil pump, you'll want to figure out which offset pulley is going back on, by the time you're reassembling. I don't think there's any downside to using one of the closer pulleys, if you're already replacing all the FEAD bracketry and the water pump.
ICT Billet makes a clone of the Camaro brackets that maintains the truck pulley offset:
http://www.ictbillet.com/ls-truck-a...p-bracket-lsx-ls3-lq4-lq9-l33-ls3-billet.html. Kinda wish I'd done it myself, rather than adapting the truck brackets, as it'd make for more Volvo-like PS hose routing and lengths (I coiled up a high pressure hose and shortened an old early low pressure hose). My early engine had a type 2, identical to my Volvo pump, but clocked differently and running a serpentine pulley - the later ones use a different fitting for the high pressure line.
If you adapt the truck harness and keep mostly stock routing, you'll need to extend the alternator wiring for the lower position. DIYAutoTune sells one for Gen 3s, but at some point the Gen4 switches to a different alternator connector/pinout.
There are kits around to mount Sanden 508 compressors (which the 240 original is), and the original lines will connect, although they usually wind up on the passenger side and would be better shortened than looped up. Unless you have an early (red-blue connector, 2002 and earlier) or 03-07 van ECU, you won't be running the AC through the ECU, you'll be keeping your Volvo wiring and using some aftermarket module if you wanted to do high-RPM cutoff. If you're gonna do AC ever, I'd suggest at least going ahead and getting a bracket and doing some test fits with your old Volvo compressor, or you're almost definitely going to make it impossible to do without major reworks of *something* down the line. Two notes about 91+ AC: you'll need to buzz off the rear mounting tab from the passenger coil bracket as it is extremely friendly with one of the hard lines going into the firewall bulkhead, and while it won't apply to you because turbo, the hard line on the passenger frame rail will interfere with an NA exhaust setup.
The truck intake will just *barely* clear the hood. It will not clear a strut tower brace (flashback to a certain 16V intake, lol). If you do an LS6 intake, you might need to do the water pump as well - at some point the truck engines got a water pump with a different neck that will barely clear the throttle body on a car intake, where the early ones will interfere (as did mine). The LS6 intake will not dramatically out-flow the truck intake, you would switch to it purely for the sake of aesthetics, or to clear a strut tower brace. If you do go to an LS6 intake, you'll need to do some simple mods and add spacers to use the truck injectors, but that probably doesn't apply, because turbo. If you're swapping injectors, the electrical connectors on the truck injectors are different from literally anything else, just clip 'em and crimp new ends on.
