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Old 08-28-2018, 02:01 PM   #1
poulrais
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Default B6284t valve lifters

Now that my pistons and rods are ordered I'm starting to check on other stuff I'll need to put the motor back together. I want to replace the hydro valve lifters. I was just wondering if these should be replaced or if I'm good to go with those already in the head...
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Old 08-28-2018, 02:39 PM   #2
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Rebuild them.
Super easy.
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Old 08-28-2018, 02:46 PM   #3
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Originals are good as is if the engine has had even some maintenance. Never had, heard or seen a problem with those.
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Old 08-28-2018, 02:55 PM   #4
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Originals are good as is if the engine has had even some maintenance. Never had, heard or seen a problem with those.
utan när dom får lite skit i dom och dom går stum. Då är det bara lite rengörning med hemska kemikaler och dom blir bättre.
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Old 08-28-2018, 02:57 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by poulrais View Post
Now that my pistons and rods are ordered I'm starting to check on other stuff I'll need to put the motor back together. I want to replace the hydro valve lifters. I was just wondering if these should be replaced or if I'm good to go with those already in the head...
Do they bounce? ya know bouncie bouncie_?
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Old 08-28-2018, 03:27 PM   #6
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Do they bounce? ya know bouncie bouncie_?
I haven't really checked them yet. Will do and report back.
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Old 08-28-2018, 03:41 PM   #7
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utan när dom får lite skit i dom och dom går stum. Då är det bara lite rengörning med hemska kemikaler och dom blir bättre.
My Swedish isn't that good but those lifters haven't been prone to fail in any way even in high mileage engines. Some older 5-cyl and RWD-engines have had slight issues but not really in the recent years.
Not saying that a check up would not do any good but haven't had the need.
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Old 08-28-2018, 05:10 PM   #8
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My Swedish isn't that good but those lifters haven't been prone to fail in any way even in high mileage engines. Some older 5-cyl and RWD-engines have had slight issues but not really in the recent years.
Not saying that a check up would not do any good but haven't had the need.
Sorry I was in the middle of fixing some problem in that other language.. Hell poor poulrais is certainly up there in Quebec swearing all kinds of things like CALISSE!!! tabernak!!! thinking I've gone insane...Again.

The B234s here use same follower/lifter/whatever as those YBG Crossworth Fords and both sometimes go full stiff.. So I'm guessing that maybe the same INA brand hydro things act same..The hydro part will come out when you whack the lifter DOWN hard several times on a piece of soft wood like pine..Then with a skinny pokey tool and Brake-Kleen or Carb and Choke cleaner you just spray and squeeze till it squeezes and poke and spray.
Soon enough it goes boing boing and its all better so you then just poke it back into the bucket..

Seems to be a high-miles and lousy disciple on oil changes..
But easy and smart to clean them now rather than later when the whole thing is running and starts the bad clatter in -35 winter weather..
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Old 08-28-2018, 07:26 PM   #9
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Sorry I was in the middle of fixing some problem in that other language.. Hell poor poulrais is certainly up there in Quebec swearing all kinds of things like CALISSE!!! tabernak!!! thinking I've gone insane...Again.

The B234s here use same follower/lifter/whatever as those YBG Crossworth Fords and both sometimes go full stiff.. So I'm guessing that maybe the same INA brand hydro things act same..The hydro part will come out when you whack the lifter DOWN hard several times on a piece of soft wood like pine..Then with a skinny pokey tool and Brake-Kleen or Carb and Choke cleaner you just spray and squeeze till it squeezes and poke and spray.
Soon enough it goes boing boing and its all better so you then just poke it back into the bucket..

Seems to be a high-miles and lousy disciple on oil changes..
But easy and smart to clean them now rather than later when the whole thing is running and starts the bad clatter in -35 winter weather..
I think you spent too much time with Vincent cause you're starting to sound like a real Québécois!

The head's valvetrain was pretty clean so I think that the lifters should be ok. I sure hope so because the OEM replacement is like 20€ each!
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Old 08-29-2018, 05:29 PM   #10
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The B234s here..
B234 is not a B6284

BTW I've always just reused the lifters, kept them in a bucket of oil during the downtime. A bit of cleaning before install. Prime the motor by cranking it with no spark plugs (or fuel obviously) for a bit before start up.
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Old 08-30-2018, 01:31 PM   #11
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B234 is not a B6284

BTW I've always just reused the lifters, kept them in a bucket of oil during the downtime. A bit of cleaning before install. Prime the motor by cranking it with no spark plugs (or fuel obviously) for a bit before start up.

I know it Captain Obvious..I keenly notice extra numbers and even some different ones.

However, as we all know all the hydraulic followers/lifters or whatever you want to call them in Euro cars are all made by the same place, INA...the little hydraulic center things are constructed and installed exactly the same, and they come out exactly the same, and cleaning them is done exactly the same...and the test is done exactly the same...Boing boing.

I know Poulrais understands this..
Very odd that you don't.

Also very odd that you would suggest the No1 worst possible way of priming a motor know to man...

Are you having a bad day or something?
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Old 08-30-2018, 02:23 PM   #12
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Also very odd that you would suggest the No1 worst possible way of priming a motor know to man...
Having built a handful of these motors, I've always primed them that way. Lots of assembly lube during assembly.

There's really no other good way to do it. The pump is driven directly around the crank snout. It's not like a SBC or redblock where you can drive an oil pump shaft with a drill (which would be ideal).

Always enjoy your petty insults John, such a treat having you around.
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Old 08-30-2018, 03:43 PM   #13
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LS engines are the same way.

Buy an oil pump from an old SBC, a 3 gallon bucket, and mount the oil pump to the lid with a pickup that reaches the bottom of the bucket. Get some -AN line and a fitting that will thread into an oil galley, fill the bucket with your favorite oil, turn the oil pump mounted on the bucket with a drill while slowly spinning the engine, profit. You can be extra and make another line that runs from the oil pan back into the bucket.

Cost me less than $40 for everything.

Edit: I would also use some aluminum on the bottom of the lid to keep it from flexing when turning the pump.


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Old 08-30-2018, 07:13 PM   #14
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...
That's really clever! I'll keep that in mind for the next two I build.
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Old 08-30-2018, 07:27 PM   #15
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A SBF pump has an internal hex for the drive, so you can spin it with an allen wrench chucked up in a drill. Might be easier to keep centered verses the SBC slot drive. Just a thought.
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Old 08-30-2018, 08:26 PM   #16
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There's really no other good way to do it.
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That's really clever! I'll keep that in mind for the next two I build.


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Old 08-30-2018, 08:47 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hank Scorpio View Post
Having built a handful of these motors, I've always primed them that way. Lots of assembly lube during assembly.

There's really no other good way to do it. The pump is driven directly around the crank snout. It's not like a SBC or redblock where you can drive an oil pump shaft with a drill (which would be ideal).

Always enjoy your petty insults John, such a treat having you around.
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That's really clever! I'll keep that in mind for the next two I build.
Kauer, you slander me because you don't know how to prime engines with crank mounted oil pumps and then somebody comes along with a way --amongst others-----I can't believe it that you're allowed to break the rule about bad mouthing "other vendors" that you made and stickied...

I did not insult you..You said I insulted you and that is a lie... You should be stripped of any residual mod status and be banned if you cannot even follow your own rules....

Maybe rather than pretending to be insulted you could tell us how you check and rebuild Volvo hydraulic followers...

Or, if like the nice idea above for priming, you are unaware of how to disassemble and clean hydraulic lifters, you could say that and we could try and educate you.
That was the subject before your started derailing the thread.

So stop making up pretend insults and resign and ban yourself for a week for faux accusations...
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Old 08-30-2018, 09:28 PM   #18
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Split the difference and ban me for a week
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Old 08-30-2018, 09:53 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by culberro View Post
A SBF pump has an internal hex for the drive, so you can spin it with an allen wrench chucked up in a drill. Might be easier to keep centered verses the SBC slot drive. Just a thought.
That was another issue. I used a piece of pipe as a collar to keep the shaft centered.

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Old 08-31-2018, 03:38 AM   #20
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Split the difference and ban me for a week
Count me in.
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Old 08-31-2018, 05:17 AM   #21
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Just fire it up. Should be fine
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Old 08-31-2018, 09:41 AM   #22
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Just fire it up. Should be fine
In the grand scheme of things, that's pretty much what volvo does when they roll off the line new.
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Old 08-31-2018, 01:08 PM   #23
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In the grand scheme of things, that's pretty much what volvo does when they roll off the line new.
It is. When we do pistons or anything bearing related. We just lube some oil on the bearings (as per Volvo) and fire it up. And that's on bearings without tangs to prevent rotation of the bearing. Probably a couple hundred through the shop over the years, no issues

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