Wow. I wasn't expecting such an offensive response, Why so arrogant? I just asked a question, not sure how I managed to hit your nerve there. Oh the joys of posting on internet forums!
However, thank-you @CAPT_BLOTTO for the link to KLRacing, that is one I have not found. KGTrimming have got back to me and he has been very helpful and yes most things are out of stock at the moment, ACM also got back to me and are also out of stock for B230 stuff. I have a B20 2400cc stroker kit on order with them anyway for a separate 122s restoration project.
If you genuinely want to know then I am not trying to impress anyone, this is a hobby for me. I build engines and tune cars for fun, for my own enjoyment. I couldn't care less if anyone is or is not "impressed". In the UK there is a sport called Autograss (mostly clay, shale or mud tracks), without going into too much detail Class 3 is front engine rear wheel drive limited to 2065cc if a multi-valve (double-cam) engine, unlimited CC if single cam. People with lots of money have bought and raced EVO motors from Motordesign.se in this class but there is no joy for me in just buying an engine. My dad did very well in the 90s in this class with a Mk2 Escort with a Volvo B23 engine in it, that was before companies like the ones mentioned here existed on the internet to order kits from. It had over-size pistons, offset-ground crank and he had Kent Cams make a custom cam with the same lobes as a golf GTI race cam but fitted into the 405 Volvo head. Standard size intakes but enlarged exhaust valves, which were standard ones from a Renault 21 if I remember correctly, I loved the sound of that car, I drove it a handful of times and it very quick and had great low-end. At the same time as this, his road car was a maroon Volvo 244 GLT (M46). I loved it and it holds nostalgic value for me. We always wanted to put the engine out of his escort into the 244 and I have wanted to do this ever since.
In the UK it is not as easy as in the US where you can simply stick any engine you like into a car and easily get it on the road. Here it costs a lot of money in insurance and inspections and is generally a lot of hassle if you do that. It is a similar situation if you put a turbo on a non-turbo car or clearly modify it in some way. So I like getting standard cars and squeezing as much out of the original engine as possible, and also tuning the brakes and suspension but keeping the look completely standard. Sleeper style. Parts such as the 86mm Penta crank, 16v b234 head and AQ171/151 blocks are extremely rare in the UK and when they are for sale, they are extremely expensive, such that I might as well buy a stoker kit as finding and buying an 86mm Penta crank with the correct thrust bearing location, and getting forged rods and forged pistons to go with it would cost somewhere near as much as just getting a kit (especially since nowhere in UK makes performance Volvo rods and pistons so if I am dealing with US import costs it would be even more expensive).
Why do I want to go over 86mm stroke? I like torque, which is obviously good in the mud for the autograss and I want more power at the same time. You will find that the competitive Swedish rally-cross 240s are running 2750cc-3200cc N/A stroked motors. Same for the VOC (Volvo Original Cup) rally cars, depending on the class of course. Anyway, I digress...I just bought a Red 240 GLT (M47) in mint condition which has been dry stored for 15 years. I am in the process of restoring the leather and getting the body work ready to get resprayed. I am building the high compression N/A stoker to put into this car, it will not be my daily driver anyway as I have other cars so I may also use the exact same engine in an Autograss car so I want the torque for that. I am doing this purely for fun, I am going to squeeze everything I can out of the 8v B230 with the Bosch CIS system, which I have just taken apart, cleaned and refurbished. The previous owner sold the car because he could not get it running, he didn't understand how the CIS system worked and in trying to solve the problem (which was simply the plunger had seized in the distributor and the air sensor plate had become stuck), he fired the parts cannon. In doing so he put the wrong fuel tank, wrong sender unit and wrong pump in the car. He did replace the injectors with new ones though. I have now sorted out all of these issues and repaired the CIS system, so I want to start off with the 8v head and modify the CIS system to deliver more fuel into my tuned engine, this is achieved by replacing the WUR with an electronic programmable unit which increases fuel delivery in-line with vacuum. If this doesn't work I have a set of Weber DCO/SP 55s and a manifold but I think tuning the CIS system would be an interesting experiment. I also a have a 16V head I would like to try at some point as well.
So in conclusion, I am doing this for fun, I don't care who is or is not "impressed", and if getting a stroker kit, it makes sense to go big - it has been proven to work well in Motorsport as far as torque is concerned for an N/A motor. So. Please go ahead and tell me about "bad, poorly thought out reasons most of which are all based on presumptions."