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m47 shift knob on a t5?

mblue240

Well-known member
Joined
May 22, 2007
Location
Portland, Oregon
I'm going to run the Summit shifter, but I'd like to stick with the factory shift knob. Anyone have a clever idea how to get them to mate together well?

sum-555-7353-sr_w.jpg


https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-555-7353-sr/overview/year/1994/make/ford/model/mustang
 
I have a crappy m46 knob that I didn't get around to throwing out yet if you want one for practice, PM me. Looking at it, without measuring anything, you would need to remove a small amount of plastic, then epoxy or otherwise fasten a threaded insert into it. You may be able to just press the insert in, I don't know the exact dimensions of course.
 
It is pressed on splines. The splines are a white plastic with a raised locating "key" or raised slot to center it. Splined area is appox 16mm side to side, the raised key area side to side is 12.5 mm. It just happened to be sitting within reach here haha.
 
Great idea. Maybe a new project for STS.

That was one thought I had. It'll probably cost the same as the short shifter did.

I have a crappy m46 knob that I didn't get around to throwing out yet if you want one for practice, PM me. Looking at it, without measuring anything, you would need to remove a small amount of plastic, then epoxy or otherwise fasten a threaded insert into it. You may be able to just press the insert in, I don't know the exact dimensions of course.

I have a few crappy ones too, that sounds like a decent idea.

I don't remember what is on an M46, was it a pressed on fit?
If so, would could you tap it for one of these?
https://www.homedepot.com/p/E-Z-LOK...VDSsMCh0WhwR1EAQYAiABEgJXXPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Steve

This sounds like it will be my first trial.
 
Yep, JB weld is your friend here. Maybe even half-ass it more than using a threaded insert - coat the T5 threaded portion with wax (or something?) and then partially fill the Volvo shifter knob with epoxy, and then (shifter lever out, everything upside down) just sort of push the threaded portion into the puddle of JB weld, let it cure. The wax should allow the threaded lever to unscrew from the knob afterward.
 
I'll post pictures when I'm done molesting my m46 shifter/knob. I'm using the stock mustang base and going to drill/shorten a m46 shift lever to create a standard length shifter for the 140.
 
I can weld the m46 shifter rod to a flange that bolts on to the shifter. You would have to do all of the measuring and angle-ing to get it to work nicely with the rubber boot as that thing loves to pop a normal t5 shifter out of gear.
 
I had an m45 shift knob on my Hurst t5 shift lever for a while, couple years even. I jammed it on and turned it until it was tight. Shift knob is soft, shift lever threads are coarse. Held until I un-threaded it and put a Delrin knob on it (which is much nicer to use)
 
I'm here to spread the gospel of the M45 shift knob. A less sucky near-match to the M46/47 shaped knob. It's hard plastic instead of mushy rubber. I've used one on my M47s for years...it doesn't fly off on a good one-two shift.
 
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