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92 240 Wagon Possible Demise

xDread92x

xDread92x

Member
Joined
Feb 5, 2015
Location
NC
92 240 N/A noticed last year dripping of oil. Double checked everything and discovered rear main seal was leaking. The leaked dripped here and there but I thought I had more time.

Anyway, today on the highway the seal finally gave. As I was driving about 70mph the head began to chatter, as I let off the gas the noise lessened. At this point i decerlated and the clacking etc got worse. The temp gauge started shooting up as I pulled over and cut the car off. It smoked heavily inside once turned off when I removed the oil cap.

I noticed oil was thrown around the transmission and rear of engine so its obvious the rear main went. I don't believe I heard noise from the the block, just the head really.

Do you guys think its completely over for this engine or am I OK??

Thanks
 
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Could the block be okay and the head be done for??

How can I test? Add oil and turn by hand to hear result?
 
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https://streamable.com/q8gd1

Here is the video. The sound seems like its coming from the head. I have dealt with piston slaps etc and they sound much deeper. The noise also increases under acceleration which would make sense coming from the head and moving of valves etc.

It seems like the block could be saved and head replaced. This video was with 5 quarts of oil put in.

Thoughts?
 
Was the oil light on? Sounds like the engine went dry, it's exceedingly likely that it's 90% done. It hasn't thrown a rod yet, but you probably put some grievous damage into it.
 
Just source a long block and swap that in. The block is done, maybe the head is still usable but without disassembling head, who knows. This will allow you to do all seals and gasket and then you never have to worry about leaks again.
 
Rear main seal went.

It didnt run long on low oil. I really feel the head is whats damaged.

I had a b230f that seized before and unseized it and it still ran with a piston slap. It ran much longer on no oil at all vs low oil with my wagon now
 
Drain the oil and see if it looks sparkly.

At this point, there's not much of a risk in putting oil in it and just running it until it dies. Be that 10 miles, 1000 miles, 1000000 miles. Other than losing the effort you're putting into pulling the trans to swap the RMS.
 
Find a 1993-95 940 with a regina FI B230F in it. Pull engine. Remove the regina stuff, wiring harness, and the accessory brackets. Install the LH 2.4 (or 3.1) FI parts, 240 wiring harness, and accessories with brackets. Replace metal cap on rear of head with cam plug and iPd plug retainer. Change all oil seals. Install transmission, drop into car.

-J
 
OK ALL....

Compression Results from last year (8/2018)

Cylinder 1: 125
Cylinder 2: 130
Cylinder 3: 130
Cylinder 4: 130

Compression Results (8/2019)

Cylinder 1: 120
Cylinder 2: 115
Cylinder 3: 125
Cylinder 4: 130

I wonder if the lower compression is from the head issue on those cylinders. IIRC piston and rod (block issues) should bring numbers as low as 60-70 and possibly lower.

Thoughts?
 
Rod issues won't really affect compression unless *ahem* the rod has thrown itself out of the block.

And the sort of things a head would do when run without oil (gall cam bearings, scuff cam lobes, scuff lifter bucket shims) wouldn't really lower compression either.

I guess scuffed pistons and worn rings could do it, but generally speaking, when the oil goes dry, the rod bearings (being subject to a great deal of centrifugal force flinging the last of the oil out) go dry first, and either lock up the motor, or if the motor is spinning fast enough, break and fling metal everywhere.
 
I'd just go ahead and pull the valve cover off and look at the cam bearings and lobes/lifters.

If they look OK, and there's nothing shiny in the oil you drain out, then cross your fingers, fill with oil again, and keep on rocking in the free world.
 
Well the head will obviously continue to make noise but if I could just put the spare head on that I have, I may find the block has life left for however many miles.

Worst case I put the spare head on and then I discover there was noise from the block or block is shot, car may overheat, etc going for a while. I just dont know

CAN ANYONE GIVE ANY INSIGHT ON COMPRESSION TEST DIFFERENCES. IS 10-15 A BIG DIFFERENCE IN CHANGE?
 
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Just so you know...

It is highly improbable that the noise you heard came from the head. It is more likely that you heard a rod knock.

Fill it back full of oil and drive it. If it makes a noise like "clack clack clack ... " in second and third when you accelerate, then it is toast (rod bearing failure leading to excessive rod to crank clearances - i.e. time for a shortblock).
 
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