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Whiteblock in a 240 - All you need to know

I still think its easiest to start with the slushbox AW30-40 with a controll box
the things cost nearly nothing (I've got 4 now for a total cost of $190)
the trans bolts up to the shifter perfectly using the AW70 rods
the trans mount requires a minimal amount of modification to use the 960 mount
and as poi has proven it can hold some power



i was referring to manual solutions - so "what can you do to get something with a clutch in there" ... of course the aw30/40 fits as-is.

honestly though if you are going to use an auto box in a 240 you could also always use the klr adapter and a th400, no electronics, and the malibu shifter fits where it should, but then you are stuck with 3 gears ... and an auto.

what i liked about the aw30/40 idea was the paddle shifters, just depends on how quick those shifts are, could be awesome.
 
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what i liked about the aw30/40 idea was the paddle shifters, just depends on how quick those shifts are, could be awesome.

I've ridden in chris's 960 after he shimmed the crap out of the accumulators. It shifts pretty damn fast, and quite firmly too. I would definitely consider installing flappy paddles in a car.
 
Been two days, i'm reminding you now:wiggle:

Starting mockup on the engine today. Here are some pics (in addition to Kildea's):

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/kbuchka/1979Volvo242/photo#5150751189789852770"><img src="http://lh6.google.com/kbuchka/R3sk6tHYRGI/AAAAAAAAGgs/e2TZ_JRzDLg/s800/DSC01009.JPG" /></a>

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/kbuchka/1979Volvo242/photo#5150751194084820082"><img src="http://lh3.google.com/kbuchka/R3sk69HYRHI/AAAAAAAAGgQ/MymBOjZEK_g/s800/DSC01010.JPG" /></a>
 
Todd your bro's car is awesome and I appreciate the work, but I have to say I am just not a fan of that oil return. A 90 degree bend right after the flange and a nearly horizontal drain is really not a great scenario.

Nice progress Karl, the passenger side mount looks familiar. :oogle:

In terms of manual transmissions the M90 was pretty straightforward. 850 flat flywheel and 850r clutch, shortened the shifter linkage, set up a hydraulic clutch, lengthened front driveshaft, done. :cool:
 
i like what you did with that tensioner ;)

seriously - looks good guys, let me know when you are planning to proceed and i'll drive down!
 
Looks really good guys :D what sort of gap are you running between the rear of the engines and the firewall? I defiantly will be fabricating some engine mounts as i need the whiteblock to sit vertical to give the exhaust manifold some room from the steering column. Gunna be a tight fit:wtf: Karl, u got adjustable cam gears in that thing? You going to run with ignition coils from the later whiteblocks?
 
Looks really good guys :D what sort of gap are you running between the rear of the engines and the firewall? I defiantly will be fabricating some engine mounts as i need the whiteblock to sit vertical to give the exhaust manifold some room from the steering column. Gunna be a tight fit:wtf: Karl, u got adjustable cam gears in that thing? You going to run with ignition coils from the later whiteblocks?

I applaud you for attempting this on a right hand drive car. It's going to be extremely tight on the exhaust side of the motor. I'm a little worried about making the downpipe for karl's car since there is so little room between the turbo and he firewall. Whiteblocks come with adjustable came gears from the factory and with this little handy tool from quick brick motorsports you can tell what the hell you're actually doing with them:

http://www.quickbrickmotorsports.com/prod_camtool.html

Karl's megasquirt is built to run S80 T6 ignition coils. The connectors to the coils were really hard to find but I poked around and did some internet sleuthing and managed to get an entire set brand new for about $50.
 
I applaud you for attempting this on a right hand drive car. It's going to be extremely tight on the exhaust side of the motor. I'm a little worried about making the downpipe for karl's car since there is so little room between the turbo and he firewall. Whiteblocks come with adjustable came gears from the factory and with this little handy tool from quick brick motorsports you can tell what the hell you're actually doing with them:

http://www.quickbrickmotorsports.com/prod_camtool.html

Karl's megasquirt is built to run S80 T6 ignition coils. The connectors to the coils were really hard to find but I poked around and did some internet sleuthing and managed to get an entire set brand new for about $50.

neat tool...too bad everything seems to be "out of stock"
 
Going to get a flywheel made up for the tilton 2 plate clutch but don't have a flexplate or flywheel on me. Do you know the outside diameter of the ring gear, it's tooth pitch and tooth count in mm?
 
Karl and Alex, here are some pics of the mounting bosses that I'm going to use. Do they differ to the ones you guys are using? Does my block differ to yours?

Exhaust side:
Notice the the two lower and the left bosses as just casted holes. Will bore and tap them to M8x1.25
http://www.pbase.com/andreweg/image/91298141

Inlet side:
upper left one is blanked and the rest are M6. I will bore out those four and tap them to M8x1.25
http://www.pbase.com/andreweg/image/91298143


So you guys in the US have to get an engineer to give you a certificate on the engine conversion?

Cheers dudes:)
 
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Andrew, looks like your engine is missing one boss on the exhaust side of the motor. The lower left one you circled won't line up with the 960 mount. On the intake side you want to use the bosses you circled except for the one on the upper right - it's for the starter bracket - the boss to the left of that one is for the 960 mount. As you can see the PCV port is sort of in the way but that's easily remedied but notching out the engine mount with a grinder. Looks like you've got yourself an S70 engine. My '98 engine looks exactly like yours.

Here are a couple of pics of a '94 850 motor:

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/abuchka/242TheSagaContinues/photo#5109132232506832674"><img src="http://lh3.google.com/abuchka/RudIsjURdyI/AAAAAAAAAf4/FI6en-DXThM/s400/PICT0019.JPG" /></a>

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/abuchka/242TheSagaContinues/photo#5109132236801799986"><img src="http://lh4.google.com/abuchka/RudIszURdzI/AAAAAAAAAgA/WEBQWZVcG9k/s400/PICT0020.JPG" /></a>

:rofl: @ engineering certificate. They don't even pop the hood during your annual inspection here in Massachusetts. They wiggle the wheels to check the bearings and make sure your indicators are working, that's pretty much it. It varies from state to state but in MA you are also emissions exempt if the car is older than '82
 
Hi alex, i thought it was a 70 series engine. Even though i asked for a 850R engine... The model number written on the engine is B5234T Would it be from a XC70 T5 as the engine was very muddy.
I can still use the starter motor mount as it doesn't protrude out of the block as far as the two bottom bosses.

Here in Australia it's a joke when it comes to modifying cars. I'm going to have to get a certificate for the engine conversion, trans and diff conversion. Which will end up costing about $1500 AUD. Then the "engineer" will most likely end up saying that my mounts are too weak and the material will need to be 3 times thicker when I've already designed them to exceed the strength of the original Volvo mounts.

Also i'm going to need some ignition coils off a S60 engine and some adjustable cam gears off an 850r engine. You know of anywhere in the US that deals with second hand volvo parts?

Cheers Alex
It's pretty good being able to chat with people who are doing the same conversion :D
 
Hi alex, i thought it was a 70 series engine. Even though i asked for a 850R engine... The model number written on the engine is B5234T Would it be from a XC70 T5 as the engine was very muddy.
I can still use the starter motor mount as it doesn't protrude out of the block as far as the two bottom bosses.

Here in Australia it's a joke when it comes to modifying cars. I'm going to have to get a certificate for the engine conversion, trans and diff conversion. Which will end up costing about $1500 AUD. Then the "engineer" will most likely end up saying that my mounts are too weak and the material will need to be 3 times thicker when I've already designed them to exceed the strength of the original Volvo mounts.

Also i'm going to need some ignition coils off a S60 engine and some adjustable cam gears off an 850r engine. You know of anywhere in the US that deals with second hand volvo parts?

Cheers Alex
It's pretty good being able to chat with people who are doing the same conversion :D

Both my '94 and '98 engines are designated b5234t, so that doesn't really tell you much about their detailed specs. Your engine most likely came from an S70 T5 - to my knowledge the XC70 only came in 2.5T spec.

You can use ignition coils off an S80/S60 or coils off a 960. Depending on which ECU you're using one type might be easier to use than the other. The cam gears should be adjustable already from the factory as I mentioned in a previous post.

www.erievovo.com is a pretty good source for stuff. They are well sorted and have decent prices most of the time.
 
Wow guys, just read through this for the first time. Great write up! It's nice to have all the documentation all in one thread, and the piccies are much needed eye candy (ie, post more!).

Maybe one day I'll be cool and do a white block too. :)

John
 
Here's a nugget for all interested parties:

Today I picked up a pilot bearing that will work with a T5 tranny on a whiteblock. The bearing requires a 17mm ID for the T5 input shaft, 35mm OD and 10mm width to fit in the whiteblock crank. A local industrial supply shop deals in NTN brand stuff and they happened to have the exact size I needed for $17 or so.

The bearing is NTN part number 6003LLBC3/1K, here's the white paper for it:

http://www.ntnamerica.com/datasheet...&CL_PARTNO=6003LLBC3/1K&BEARINGCATEGORY=RBSRD

It was a very snug fit in the crank just as it should be and the stock retainer circlip fit perfectly.
 
here are a few photos from the day when i first installed the motor/trans in july or august - i forget when exactly, they don't show you all that much but it'll give you the idea, although if you scroll down you'll find there are a few of the mock-up block with some points of reference that might give you an idea of what kind of room there is.
i have since modified the water transfer tube to work properly as well as completing most of the rest of the project (still - unfortunately - a couple of minor items remain but it's nearer than further).

02880025.jpg









02880022.jpg






crossmember modification for rx7 trans mount:








mock-up with original twin turbo placement concept:

engine1.jpg



engine2.jpg






rearhousing.jpg



and lastly - some unsolicited engine assembly photos, just because i think it's a pretty neat-o motor :)

Now those engine mounts look kinda familiar :-P. I'm sorry there was a "slight" flaw in the drawings I sendt you (duh, why don't the right mount fit in the right place:oops:) but you seem to have figured it out.

We need moar whiteblock power http://www.vikeboe.com/prosjekter/242_golden_girl/242_golden_girl.html
242_golden_girl_29.jpg
 
i used essentially stock mounts - pretty much identically to those used on dabutcher's car. jw240 (i think) is the original dude doing it that way, unless there are others over there that did it first.
i actually wanted to buy a set of the rsport 240 poly mounts ... finally did, edit - no more hockey pucks soon enough.

oops, two edits for this previous post ...

first one - jw240 should have been v240tic, sorry i got your screen name mixed up.

second one - recieved the rsport mounts (plug), these things are friggin sweet, nooch.
 
How much of a gap you guys got going between the highest portion of the back of the head and the firewall? At the back of the head, I presume you guys replaced the brass hose barb fitting(that led to the heater) with an elbow fitting? Is it a close fit between the sloping firewall and fitting?
Also, have you angled the engine a few degrees rearward help get the transmission in?
Sorry for all these questions, just planning it so it's a turn key conversion that can be down in a weekend.
 
Here's a nugget for all interested parties:

Today I picked up a pilot bearing that will work with a T5 tranny on a whiteblock. The bearing requires a 17mm ID for the T5 input shaft, 35mm OD and 10mm width to fit in the whiteblock crank. A local industrial supply shop deals in NTN brand stuff and they happened to have the exact size I needed for $17 or so.

The bearing is NTN part number 6003LLBC3/1K, here's the white paper for it:

http://www.ntnamerica.com/datasheet...&CL_PARTNO=6003LLBC3/1K&BEARINGCATEGORY=RBSRD

It was a very snug fit in the crank just as it should be and the stock retainer circlip fit perfectly.


That's the same bearing size I'm using for the Tremec TR-3650. But i had to keep it Swedish and went SKF;-)
I presume you are using the Tremec T5 not the BW T5?
 
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