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TruTrac setup

When I took out the open diff on my 1990 NA 740 there were NO shims in there... Can this happen or should I suspect that someone once opened it and didn't put the shims back?

I threw the G80 in there without the shims and it ran fine but I find it odd that this thing could've come shim less from the factory.
 
When I took out the open diff on my 1990 NA 740 there were NO shims in there... Can this happen or should I suspect that someone once opened it and didn't put the shims back?

I threw the G80 in there without the shims and it ran fine but I find it odd that this thing could've come shim less from the factory.

The shims are between the inner bearing (cone) and the center section/carrier. There are no big thick shims like most differentials, the D30 shims are around 1mm thick.

It's most likely that you just missed them, and it all worked out. I thought the same thing the first time I did the g80 swap.
 
Yep. If you are used to Ford, Dodge, GM, etc. almost all 10 and 12 bolt diffs (non-removable center chunk) have the shims outside the outer races or "cups".
https://performanceparts.ford.com/download/instructionsheets/FordInstShtM-4209-8.pdf

Dana 30 also is one of few that have caps with no markings, you can install anyway you want.
Almost all others are marked with arrows out, or Left and Right, or something. Even if unmarked, they are machined for the side of the diff they are in from the factory, like rod caps, main caps ,cam caps, etc. Mix+match at your peril.
 
The shims are between the inner bearing (cone) and the center section/carrier. There are no big thick shims like most differentials, the D30 shims are around 1mm thick.

It's most likely that you just missed them, and it all worked out. I thought the same thing the first time I did the g80 swap.

Nope... I checked and double checked and triple checked and there were no shims between the diff casing and the inner bearings. My friend Dave who's a mechanic was a little fuzzled by that too.

I'm about to take it appart again to swap the modified (welded gov. weight) G80 in a MK1 rear diff assembly + 3.31 final gear install. I'll check again if I can find some shims in there.
 
Dana 30 also is one of few that have caps with no markings, you can install anyway you want.
Almost all others are marked with arrows out, or Left and Right, or something. Even if unmarked, they are machined for the side of the diff they are in from the factory, like rod caps, main caps ,cam caps, etc. Mix+match at your peril.

Mike, I've noticed that SOME Volvo axles are stamped on the caps and the gasket surface near the caps. The letters are correct side up when looking at the gasket surface, so you don't install them "upside down".

I still take a picture before I rip them apart, just in case.
 
Mike, I've noticed that SOME Volvo axles are stamped on the caps and the gasket surface near the caps. The letters are correct side up when looking at the gasket surface, so you don't install them "upside down".

I still take a picture before I rip them apart, just in case.

My caps on the 1031 were marked "A" and "B" with a ^ showing the upper part...
 
Uh...Mike...both the 140 and 740 have markings on the bearing caps. Cap A and B, with the stampings offset from center so you line up both A's and both B's. The old 140 GB even mentions that I believe.
 
I remember seeing marks on one, but figured atech put them there, since there is room for them to move around (no locating dowels) ansno machinedside surfaces.
I always lay them out how i remove them, but that?s good info to have.
 
This is how I've always seen them marked (and they've always been marked). The same letter stamped on both sides, just turned 90? on one side. I don't do very many of the later rear ends, so maybe they're different.

DanaCapL.jpg


DanaCapR.jpg
 
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