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Electric Fan Conversion

The answer is never really that simple. It can be enough IF:

1. Your radiator is not all gummed up OR the one you got flows to it's original specification.


2. The Pump flows to it's original specification.

3. Your head/block flows to it's original specification.

4. You don't sit around in hot traffic jams all day.

Then yes you can get buy with what you have.

Going to a 160' thermostat can help.

the OEM fan with a shroud does pull more air under real world conditions with a functioning fan clutch.

The fan should meet the envelope as long as you use it under optimal daily driver conditions in cold ambient air conditions. My math says you need more if the ambient air temps see the normal summer heat in that part of the country.

I.E. If it is a hot day and you are stuck in traffic, you might have to use the heater in your car to supplement the loss of cooling of deleting the OEM fan.

Another side effect that you might see is that the ~800 CFM fan might be on full speed more of the time rather then at low speed.

The question still remains, is the fan that you are using push ~800 when at full speed, Is the fan also rated at it's low speed, and how much CFM does push when at that setting.

For example Here is a 4-6 cyl Dodge cirrus fan that is measured at 12.5 volts with 2 fans.

Dodge Fan (both fans are always on - 2 speed)
Slow speed - 3700 cfm
High Speed 9000 cfm



So it is my opinion that a fan that is rated for 800CFM might push more or less depending on how the fan was measured.

Taking into account of how large the frontal air intake area (grill area) is in a Volvo, and provided that your hood does not seal on the sides or the rear of the hood (no foam or Rubber seal that I have seen) You should have a larger envelope of convention? cooling.

If anything is not optimal, ( like the fan shroud only covering a small circumference of the radiator instead of pulling air through the entiire surface
I.E.
41tY8at7yeL._SL500_AA300_.jpg


(Pt cruiser referred)

Vs this
j160602_1ftbk.jpg


Then IMO, Keep your OEM fan in the trunk, and a small tool box to put it on when you need it. :cool:
 
My GLH was slowly over heating at idle with a 1700cfm 14inch Hayden fan, with no shroud. It's fine once the car is moving.

Made a shroud, installed a 2,785 cfm ZFU14S Zirgo fan. Issue is completely gone.

Stock 940/960/850 pulls even more air than my ZFU14S fan, and if it is good enough for a 940/960/850, it's good enough for a 240, (with a shroud).
 
Pulled a 16inch fan from a 87cutlass. Installed it in about an hour. I LOVE IT it looks so much better and far more efficient. Thanks Dave B
 
My GLH was slowly over heating at idle with a 1700cfm 14inch Hayden fan, with no shroud. It's fine once the car is moving.

Made a shroud, installed a 2,785 cfm ZFU14S Zirgo fan. Issue is completely gone.

Stock 940/960/850 pulls even more air than my ZFU14S fan, and if it is good enough for a 940/960/850, it's good enough for a 240, (with a shroud).

Yeah! Shrouds are super important. Found that out the hard way back in '05.

I was using one of those 960 fans at first. The amount of power from those things is ungodly! If you don't use any OE fan control, Summit has excellent adjustable dual speed controllers. This will be my next controller.
 
Sooo, anyone wire in a fan switch before?

Going to do this, just want someone to critique my method.

I'm using a 960 fan in my 240, with the 960 relay.

All of the wiring will be consistant, power and ground and fusable link.

For the switch, I'm going to use a Hi/Lo switch on the dash...which'll ground out the high or low speed circuit in the relay.

My question is that since, I'm using grounds and not (+), do I just ground out the switch for it to work...say instead of a rear defroster switch, which get's its (+) trigger and switched power?

Maybe I could use a switched power source for a switch light though.
 
Sooo, anyone wire in a fan switch before?

Going to do this, just want someone to critique my method.

I'm using a 960 fan in my 240, with the 960 relay.

All of the wiring will be consistant, power and ground and fusable link.

For the switch, I'm going to use a Hi/Lo switch on the dash...which'll ground out the high or low speed circuit in the relay.

My question is that since, I'm using grounds and not (+), do I just ground out the switch for it to work...say instead of a rear defroster switch, which get's its (+) trigger and switched power?

Maybe I could use a switched power source for a switch light though.
 
You don't need a fusible link with the fan. There isn't one on the stock 940, 960, nor 850. Just connect the red wires to 12v, and black to neg. You ground the two little wires to either get high speed or low speed. You can either ground the switch or run a relay to make the fan work. Or get an adjustable thermostat for $20 and have the thermostat do the turning on/off for you.
 
You don't need a fusible link with the fan. There isn't one on the stock 940, 960, nor 850. Just connect the red wires to 12v, and black to neg. You ground the two little wires to either get high speed or low speed. You can either ground the switch or run a relay to make the fan work. Or get an adjustable thermostat for $20 and have the thermostat do the turning on/off for you.

Ummmmmmmm........


What kinda thermostat?

Rockin the 960 relay for now, but wanna make my MS handle that...but that's later!

FYI...there's a fusible link in the (+) cable to the battery...pulled it myself.
 
Soooo, why would I want me one of those, instead of the 960 relay??

I've got a good temp sensor in the hose and it works just fine...I'm just trying to afford myself the ability to control it manually...as well!

I suppose, just give switched power to the bulb, and then just ground the other prong on the switch and then the other to the high setting on the relay.

Orrrrr, I could do that, plus another lead to the low setting on the relay, spliced in with the temp sensor...so I've got it all.

http://secure.shorewaymarine.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=SSM&Product_Code=SCP12441&Category_Code=HS

Found this...three position, illuminated rocker switch...it'll fit in a standard 240 switch hole.
 
You need a thermostat to tell the relay to kick the fan on whether if it's a sensor in a hose or the probe style harry posted earlier.

You're wanting to make the install more complicated than what it is, you don't need a switch at all if you wire it correctly. Just a power, ground and signals for the low/high speed. The volvo e-fan relays rarely fail, but if they do they're plentiful enough in junkyards that you could pocket 10 spares for you and your tb buddies.
 
So I"m the only one that finds it beneficial to have a cockpit mounted fan switch???

Uhhh, what???

Complicated? Were talking about running two extra wires.

I'm setup with a in-hose thermostat as we speak, and it works...

Just saying, it's a good thing to have as a back-up, or alternative.
 
Im sure there are benefits of the incab switch. But i feel like Miguel is asking "why?" or "whats the point!" if the relay and temp. sensor will power and switch the fan on and off.

If you were to wire up the thermostat and the switch whats the point of the switch other to run the fan before the engine heats up. I keep a spare relay in my car for that just in case scenario, just like a spare tool set and various wires and fuses.
 
Seems like a nice thing to have...just in case. I'm not saying it'll be used on the regular, but I can't see why I wouldn't want it. Got the idea from the last '84 Ferrari I was in, and when I'd sit in traffic, I'd switch the fan on manually, via a cockpit switch...don't think it had a thermostat.

Again, I think it'd just be a smart idea. And, besides, unless I fit a second thermostat, I'm only making use of one out to two available speeds..........which gets me thinking, would the fan be sufficient to be a puller fan for the AC condensor, as in, get the AC system to power the high speed one, and suck air from where it is, behind the radiator?
 
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