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A Marvelous Affair

linuxman51

Railspeeder Enthusiast #1
300+ Club
Joined
Dec 25, 2002
Location
mont, AL
Little play on words there. Anyway, We subjected marvelous's red wagon to use, abuse, smash and upgrade. Much would be learned over the next three days, after he came down to get the 16v treatment that served me so well on the 940. Anticipated issues: intake manifold (because, obvious), charge piping. surely everything else would be normal stuff, right? Wrong. Un-anticipated issues: all of them. Let me re-phrase that: ALL OF THEM.

we started here (with breather hoses already disconnected) this was around 1:30 or 2pm friday.
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decapitated it (fairly straight forward)
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then did battle with the roll pin (replaced with solid dowel). I finally won, after this pic was taken.

I put marv to work cleaning the pink **** off the head while I was doing.. something else. Possibly shortening the intake manifold, or.. there's no telling really
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penta cams looking all elegant and ****
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nasty welds (had to go through two rounds of shortening)
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but, not terrible considering I haven't attempted to weld aluminium since before the v8 ran
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got that ****er on there and covered it up for the (rest of the)night. 2am stop time on friday.
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I would be remiss if I did not mention at this point that we started noticing a few things not quite lining up as expected... after getting the intake in place, I wanted to see how the turbo setup was going to come together. Turns out, in spite of putting the turbo reasonably close to the valve cover, it was off in the passenger strut tower on the 240 by.. more than just a small hammer's worth. that was frustrating.

So, first thing saturday, I set about moving the flange over... as far as I could (which was only about an inch, but inches matter more than gold in the suddenly cramped 240 engine bay).

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no hammer time yet, but that was coming.
after putting the downpipe on the car, and messing with a few other things, marks were made, and a lot of time was wasted getting the stupid cam box in. As it turns out (lol), on a 200 series with a/c, and with the lip still intact along the firewall, you cannot put the cam box in without taking out numerous studs. All of the studs along the exhaust side had to come out, the rear-most stud along the centerline had to come out, and half of the intake studs had to come out.
that fight was fought and won
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you can see where I marked the hit zone with arrows. I'll have to re-visit that since it's resting up on the strut tower now that everything is installed.

another angle
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two 16v turbo manifolds
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re-use of fuel rail tabs on the intake manifold
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I didn't take any pics sunday, but we finished the mechanical side of things around 12:30pm and attempted (unsuccessfully) to start the car. no big back fires or anything, led me to believe that something was up even though the laptop didn't indicate such, but I'm getting ahead of myself in this yarn.

sunday morning I modified the downpipe so it wouldn't interfere with suspension components (that I was perfectly ok adjusting via hammer time). Discovered that there was no reasonable way to connect the compressor outlet with the intercooler inlet as-presented. Ended up cutting the inlet off, welding a plate over it, cutting a hole in the side, and welding a (smaller) inlet pipe on. bonus: it was volvo intercooler piping being welded to it. welded a 45 degree piece to the compressor outlet pipe, probably oughta get a longer coupler for that spot. I'll holler at my guy for that.

butchered the throttle cable and made a 16v cable with the old pieces from the 940 and the baseplate from the 240. winning. Had to adjust the throttle linkage. Losing (but still progressing). Somewhere along the way, we installed the coils from the 940, soldered the injector wiring, hooked all the bull**** up, installed the remote oil filter setup from the 940 (otherwise, you'd have to remove the exhaust manifold to change the oil) put coolant back in the system, topped the oil up (I think. it's going to get changed anyway)
primed the system, discovered that the lines on the filter adapter were backwards, fixed that, primed the system and purged the feed line, put all that stuff together, shortened the kickdown bracket to give a correct adjustment range for the aw71, then the aforementioned no-start situation.

plenty of fuel, no apparent zap (no big cool backfires or anything else). called it a night at 1am. After getting a little irritated, I googled the wiring for the coils that were previously on the car, and the coils that I was using. discovered that they're indexed.. backwards of sorts. swapped the coils, and got the car running finally, briefly. map sensor wasn't plugged in, so it was running WAAAY rich. Eyes burning rich. then the plugs fouled out, and that's where she sits now.

the valve cover got damaged a little on installation, and the posts that I put on there for the coils I was using don't match with the coils on the car, so probably going to do something a little different on the valve cover there, and while I'm doing that, weld the cracked corner back on. Also, the OEM valve cover gasket doesn't come with the plug hole gasket, and the ****ty watery RTV I grabbed seals about as good as... well I'll let your imagination paint that picture.
 
Looks like a ton of fun! Glad the weekend went smoothly and Marv's running 16 valves without any issues!
 
couple pics of the current state of messiness..
unmounted coils, hoes all up in this bay, etc
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the lack of inclusion of plug hole gasket (thats really the best name I can come up with for it) coupled with apparently poorly mixed rtv grey, has (predictably, I might add) led to large oil leakage at the spark plugs. especially #1. Since the valve cover is cracked, and more importantly, since the coils do not fit the style of bracket currently employed on the valve cover, that will need to be addressed as well, good reasons all around to pull the cover off and work things up a bit. That'll likely be tonight's work so I can start tackling tuning hopefully tomorrow night. Oh, and the turbo setup has to come off for additional clearance. pics of that:

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plugs were well and truly fouled, I hit em with the torch to clean em up, but now I think I left it with the req fuel set so low that it's not injecting enough to run. (or the timing is way off, also a possibility)
 
I used a short driver's side motor mount to tile the motor over that way a little bit. Pulls the head away from the A/C lines in the firewall, pulls the turbo slightly away form the strut tower.

And yeah, those long cam carrier studs are a real PITA. Add in an extra 30 minutes to remove or replace as you mess with taking those in and out.
 
I have a ton of pictures of the weekend's activities ill post when I get home. Kenny really is the man here. This swap requires a lot more fabrication than I expected and since I don't know how to weld Kenny really was doing all of the heavy lifting.

But yeah basically everything that could be difficult was. I think the throttle body cable was the only thing we were able to problem solve through in like 20 minutes start to finish. Literally everything else fought us the whole way.

Oh, and unrelated, but Kenny's turbo ls 940 wagon is fast. Like ridiculously fast. I'd get my ass in so much trouble driving that thing around.
 
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Picture dump...

Showed up to Kenny's around noon or so on Friday.
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Got the belts off and discovered that A) I have an under drive crank pulley and B) the crank bolt wasn't on very tight. Oops.
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We had the head off around 2-3 in the afternoon Friday. Yoshifab cutting jig doing work. Had reliefs for the valves cut in about 30 minutes.
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So obviously the stock 16 valve intake doesn't fit. Cut about 2 inches out of each intake runner and then you have enough clearance from the brake booster for it to bolt up to the head.
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Lower half of the head on after cutting valve reliefs. The studs from cylinder 3 and 4 have to come off in order to get the top half of the head on with enough clearance from the lip of the fire wall. A pita
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Kenny's downpipe doesn't clear the passenger side shock tower so we hit it with a BFH to try to make it fit.
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Exhaust on and here's how much clearance there was for the oil filter. BMW should take notes so that their next generation 328i can have an oil service procedure that requires the removal of the exhaust manifold.
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Hammer the shock tower some with the BFH and there's barely enough room for the 16G.
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I drew Kenny a fuel injector wiring diagram on a blue terry cloth that I failed to take a picture of but probably ended up being the highlight of the weekend. Hopefully a picture of that gets posted.
 
modified intercooler pics. no rope
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those who are friends on FB can see a short vid of startup, complete with bubbling oil out the #1 plug hole (#4 does it too, but you can't see it in the vid).

struggled a bit with the microsquirt, turns out it doesn't like TDC angle changes without powercycles (#oldfirmware), that was a mother****er. tomorrow I'll set up the new valve cover with posts for the ls1 coils. Both front corners on the current valve cover are broken, so I'll have to fix that before I mothball it as a hotspare for the race car.

still gotta add some passenger side turbo clearance, that'll be fun taking all that stuff off.
 
so, I felt the need to hit something today... and tag, the strut tower was it

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still think a stiffer/thicker passenger mount is in store for marv.

ran out of good paint remover (and time), welds less than desirable-but better than some previous attempts
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Yes, it can also be seen in the asswhoopin' pic.

little paint goes a long way
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slight mod to the downpipe in addition to the strut tower, also slight mods to the lower half of the downpipe (not pictured) so that it lines up better with the rest of the exhaust. not sure if it's done-done, but won't know til I put the rest of it back together tomorrow.

despite the snug-ness, it took ~20 minutes to take the entire hotside apart. After the body modz I anticipate that number will drop to somewhere between 8 and 12 minutes. Sorry Marv, I'm not going to address the pita that is the cam box ;)
 
the paint on valve cover 2.0 setting up and wrinkling.
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not likely to be any test driving today, but perhaps I can get everything tidied up, the firmware on the megasquirt updated to this century, and.. well, yeah.
 
So I thought if you beat the firewall lip down you could get the top halfd dropped in - is that correct?

I dropped my motor in complete, but I'm sure it'll be apart at some point.
 
So I thought if you beat the firewall lip down you could get the top halfd dropped in - is that correct?

I dropped my motor in complete, but I'm sure it'll be apart at some point.

not without moving the a/c lines a bit as well. I'll leave those kind of structural decisions up to marv, but the strut tower, it had it's whoopin' a comin'
 
So I thought if you beat the firewall lip down you could get the top halfd dropped in - is that correct?

I dropped my motor in complete, but I'm sure it'll be apart at some point.

That would probably work. I just keep on pulling the studs each time. In theory (*siiiiigh*) you're not really pulling it all that often.

Another theory I've heard is that the 16V engine and trans can't really go in together, between the head, firewall, oil pan, and cross member there's just not enough room for it to slide in. I've never tried it, couldn't say, but wouldn't doubt it. I always pull the trans off the engine and pull the engine straight up.
 
Ah yes, the late A/C lines.

The AC system needs a total rebuild so augmenting the lines in there is no problem.

Dat shock tower doe. Looks almost as bad as Georgia's defense whenever they play a top25 ranked team.
 
:lol:

nah the tower exhibited the "bend don't break" technique oft sought after by defensive coaches.

you might say..... it was more bama-esque... :whip:
 
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