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240 Bolts snapped off in block from engine mounting.

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Looks like OP doesn't have enough material there for the linked tool. I second left hand drill bits but OP needs to be right on center. OP look at the other mounting bolts so you have an idea how much material is left in the block. Spray some brake cleaner in that area so your not working on slippery surfaces.
 
I have used the welding nut method many of times. Its my go to before I reach for the drill. What I do is get a washer with the I.D. the same as the bolt or a tad smaller. Weld the washer in place and then weld my nut to the washer from the inside of the nut.

thats a good idea

If you guys have all of that material left to add washers and nuts and then weld on, then you're doing it wrong...
:roll:
didnt even know about welding until yesterday but today is an expert
 
thats a good idea


:roll:
didnt even know about welding until yesterday but today is an expert

Jack is the expert. Because he says he is.

You'll have to join my haters club Jack. I'm good at nearly everything I set my hand to :-P
 
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Try cleaning with some carb/brake cleaner. Give it a good blast with compressed air. Give it some PB plaster. With a sharp pin punch or little screw drive try to turn it out.
 
You'll probably get to this point eventually.

http://www.timesert.com/html/mtrcsert.html

I went through a semi-similar situation when the alternator mounting bolt broke off in the block of my red car. I ****ed around with it for two weeks with reverse thread drill bits and stuff before I went the timesert route. Once I had the timesert kit I had a new bolt in the block in about a half hour. Has been fine for ~ a year and many 12-16psi full throttle pulls later. Broken bolts ****ing SUCKS!
 
So far we have a plan to attack this issue...

-Were beginning with trying to rotate the broke bolts out of the head with a punch like many have said.

-We purchased a left handed drill set from ryobi and a removal kit from ryobi incase just the drill set doesnt work.

-We dont quite have a welder or access to a welder so thats kinda out of the question at least for now unless we fail at literally everything else.

-Our current hail mary if everything fails is to just drill out and retap the holes.

I believe I covered all bases there so Ill keep this thread up to date on progress if there is progress.
 
So I guess we over prepared or something but for the people who said to simply just use a screwdriver or punch to rotate the studs were right. They came out easy as hell with a few taps.

I guess call it overreacting but at least we have all the other listed tools for future f-ups.

Thanks guys
 
Looks like OP doesn't have enough material there for the linked tool. I second left hand drill bits but OP needs to be right on center. OP look at the other mounting bolts so you have an idea how much material is left in the block. Spray some brake cleaner in that area so your not working on slippery surfaces.

Definitely use a center punch to make a dimple before you start drilling, it will help keep the bit from walking off to the side.
 
You'll never be over prepared if you work on old cars. lol Glad that is fixed. I just had to have a head repaired at a welding and fabrication shop. It saved the head but cost me an hour of their time which was very fair at 125 dollars.
 
Glad that worked out. How much thread was in the block?

About half an inch on thread/half the bolt thats used to install the bracket. Its really convinient that weve had to mess with the engine mounts often enough for the threads to be loose.

We just used penetrating oil, let it sit for a day, and then took a screwdriver and hammer to it and bam.

Definitely use a center punch to make a dimple before you start drilling, it will help keep the bit from walking off to the side.

Luckily we didnt get that far on this but this thread (Assuming this is the only one about this which its not lol) will be pretty useful in the future to anyone else whose unfortunate enough someone snap 3 engine mount bracket bolts.......

You'll never be over prepared if you work on old cars. lol Glad that is fixed. I just had to have a head repaired at a welding and fabrication shop. It saved the head but cost me an hour of their time which was very fair at 125 dollars.

I mean i guess this is how you end up with that one tool you never thought youd need but then end up needing and conviniently have it.

Thank you though, we werent really prepared to use a shop, thats typically our very very last option and weve thankfully never had to do it yet.
 
if you can't use the punch, welding a nut to it is the next best thing. it's not difficult.
 
If you spent any time around the 140 cars with a/c it was almost a daily event. They only had there bolts. If you were smart you would check them at every maintenance.
 
Glad it was relatively easy. Now the question is, if the bolts were not seized, what made them to break???
 
So far we have a plan to attack this issue...

-Were beginning with trying to rotate the broke bolts out of the head with a punch like many have said.

-We purchased a left handed drill set from ryobi and a removal kit from ryobi incase just the drill set doesnt work.

-We dont quite have a welder or access to a welder so thats kinda out of the question at least for now unless we fail at literally everything else.

-Our current hail mary if everything fails is to just drill out and retap the holes.

I believe I covered all bases there so Ill keep this thread up to date on progress if there is progress.

drill for a M8x1.25 sti tap and add helicoils . You'll be still able to use a M8 bolts
 
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