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*sigh* Another Volvo engine in another old jeep

itlksez

Member
Joined
Oct 6, 2009
Location
Post Falls, ID
Me again. :-P
Be prepared... Redneck machining is about to go down.

In case you missed it before, I put a redblock and an m45 in a ?49 Willys CJ3A.

This time, my ex-race-Jeep, now plow Jeep, is getting a rebuild.

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The plan is to pull the engine and wiring from my ?95 850 DD in the spring and adapt the whiteblock to this ?68 Chevy truck drivetrain I snagged last week. It?s quite possible this mess weighs more than the engine.

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I had an old M56 trans in storage that had questionable synchros, so I sacrificed it for the bellhousing section. I cut the excess material away with a skilsaw.

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The material around the input shaft sat about 1/4? proud of the face, so I made a template out of plywood and mowed it off, so it was a hair below flush with a router and an old junk bit.

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Now I have a flat face that allows for an adapter plate that I can easily make out of 7/8? aluminum plate, then weld it to the bell.

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I turned a ring out of Corian that centers the ID of the bell opening to the OD of the Chevy bearing retainer snout. The plate will have a machined hole to center on the bearing restrained, and this will center the bell. Once they?re both in place, they can be clamped together and welded. The spacer can come out after the plate and bell are welded.

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Next was the clutch arm. I cut the tips off the Volvo arm and fit the fork from the Chevy arm in place, so the Chevy throw out bearing can be used. I?ll wait to fully weld this until I?m sure it?s in the right place.

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I found a 15 x 32 x 9mm (NSK6002DDU) bearing that should work for the pilot bearing, and I found a clutch disk from an ?81-?83 AMC Eagle that has the correct spline, and should fit inside the Volvo pressure plate with minimal trimming.

It may be a few months until the rest of this gets rolling, but it?ll go hard and fast when it does. Stay tuned. ;-)
 
Thanks!

It’s a ‘62 CJ3B, the red headed stepchild of the early jeeps. In order to fit a taller engine, they just raised the hood, grill and cowl 4”. It made for an interesting look!

Here it was back in its prime.

https://youtu.be/qCSI3-cWGrg

Wasn't it the taller F head 134 that necessitated the higher hood? I always thought those engines were a cool design compromise.

I vote for a B30 in a CJ-5 or Willys wagon as the next Volvo/Jeep mashup.
 
Wasn't it the taller F head 134 that necessitated the higher hood? I always thought those engines were a cool design compromise.

I vote for a B30 in a CJ-5 or Willys wagon as the next Volvo/Jeep mashup.

That’s right. Just by moving the intake valves into the head raised the hp from 60 to a whopping 72!! :oogle:

Also, they were about 450 lbs.
 
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I pulled an old 850 fuel tank into the shop so I could get the fuel sender and pump out of it (and 10 gallons of free gas for plowing!). I can get started on the little things...

The current tank in the 3b is homemade and is 11? deep. The Volvo tank of course has to be difficult. The sending unit and the pump mount to the top of the tank at 3? different heights. This made the sending unit 2? too tall and the pump 1? too short. I cut the top of the plastic Volvo tank out in order to have the holes for size references when I cut into the jeep tank.

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I took the sending unit apart and cut 2? off the rod.

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It?ll be empty when the gauge says 1/4 tank, but it?s better than the no-gauge I?ve had for the last 25 years.

Cutting the thin aluminum tube was fun. I cut a little off both ends, since they got a little mangled upon removal. The first one went ok, but the second one tried to kill me.

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Back together. Its range was ~18-320 ohm, now it?s 18-260.

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The pump was as simple as disassembling it, stretching the giant stiff spring inside to space the pump 1? lower, running longer wires, and replacing the gummy garbage hose with a longer section.

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The jeep tank will just require two holes, and some sort of crude hold-downs to hold these units against the o-ring gaskets.
 
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