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1980 242 t6

Just got this months Super Chevy. The chevelle looks exactly like the cover. Am I wrong to assume same vehicle?

**Just saw above post. Nice Job
 
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Isnt the volvo master just a 3/4 master? Figure out what size the bore is and replace with one thats the same size bore that fits the hydroboost, done and done
 
Isnt the volvo master just a 3/4 master? Figure out what size the bore is and replace with one thats the same size bore that fits the hydroboost, done and done

I am not really sure exactly what you are saying, so correct me if I take this in the wrong direction.

The GM master cylinder that comes on the hydroboost has driver side outlets for the brake lines, this makes getting lines to it troublesome. It is also very tall, although I don't think that would be a deal braker.
The next issue I had with using the GM hydroboost (HB), was that the studs to mount the master cylinder (MC) are a couple mm farther apart than the Volvo unit. Again not a big deal, I just used a round file and opened up (slotted) the Volvo MC holes enough to fit.
Step two was creating an adapter - this is really only a small sleeve that fit inside the HB unit to decrease the mount hole down to the size of the Volvo MC cylinder. The center hole in the HB unit is about 10mm larger in diameter than the corresbonding area on the Volvo MC.
Step three requires extending the the HB push rod (the one that is in contact with the MC) because the Volvo MC also does not fit as deeply into the HB unit as the GM OEM MC does.
Fianally, the push rod that attatches to the Brake pedal is to long, requiring cutting, shortining and welding the rod to fit.
None of these precludes the use of this HB unit, all can be overcomed, but after researching (which I should have done first) I found that the Mustang HB and MC units fit much better, are a little smaller and are cheaper (at least in my area).

With the Mustang units, there are 1", 1-1/16" and 1-5/8" bore master cylinders available. So, rather that being limited to the Volvo MC bore size (I am unsure what that actually is) and the amount of fluid that can push, you can attempt to tune the MC to the caliper bore sizes being used. I think for most people the 1" bore will get the job done, but if someone went crazy on caliper size, there would be a few other options.

Personally I am using the 1-1/16" bore MC, I am also running very large Brembo 4 piston front calipers and my rear calipers are the same ones used when upgrading to Brembos on the front of newer Mustangs. This is almost certainly overkill on any street (very occasional race) Volvo, but I got a good deal on the calipers and I was able to make my own adapters to get them to fit.

Again if I got away from where you were going with your post straighten me out.

Thanks, Jeff
 
I love your threads. Is the plan to use an electric p/s pump with the hydroboost?

No, I am planning on just running the Hydroboost and the power steering off of a factory style p/s pump.

I looked at some of the electric power steering units available. Most are very expensive, if they are already modified to be a universal fit and I have yet to find one still in a car in the yards.
 
March 25 2014 update

I got a little done this week, mostly painting the rear suspension parts. I also started installing the bushings. Everything went pretty well, until (you knew that was coming) I got to the rear upper control arms / track arms. The bushings I was sent were at least 3/8" larger in diameter than the holes to put them into. I made a call and was told they should fit and they are supposed to be tight. Well, I can tell you they were never going to fit, so rather than argue and lose more time, I took them down to my favorite machine shop and in about 30 minutes we had them trimmed down to the right size.
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I hope I can get the rear end and brakes installed tomorrow or the next day. Then I can get back to work on the front end and I want to start work on the roll bar soon too.
 
Whoa, Bloomfield. I used to drive through there all the time going between ABQ and SLC, would never have guessed some amazing work like this popped out of there!

Definitely going to keep an eye on this one. If you need any local assistance with MegaSquirt, talk to my good friend Jim @ Clockwork Calibrations in Albuquerque, 505-463-5580. He deals with all things MS and Volvo.
 
Thanks

Whoa, Bloomfield. I used to drive through there all the time going between ABQ and SLC, would never have guessed some amazing work like this popped out of there!

Small world, I tell most people I live in New Mexico and they don't even know that it is a State. I don't even attempt telling them where Bloomfield is, beyond "it's in the North West Corner, near Colorado" - "Oh, I know where Colorado is."

Anyway, thanks for the complement!

Definitely going to keep an eye on this one. If you need any local assistance with MegaSquirt, talk to my good friend Jim @ Clockwork Calibrations in Albuquerque, 505-463-5580. He deals with all things MS and Volvo.

Thanks for the info! I am sure I will be looking him up.
 
April 18 2014 Update

First I want to thank ScottyD (doucheNozzle) for the camber plates and the advice on making them work with my setup.

Next, I had to machine a few different adapters to work with Scott's Camber plates. Only because I am running Konis and everything he sends out is designed to work with OEM type struts.

So here is what my plates looked like, trying to use the adapters included for the factory style strut.
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Here are the different bushings and changes we made to the coilover spring top mount.
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And the results of about an hour and a half with a lathe and a really good machinist (not me).
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As you can tell from the pictures, I also went from 8" to 10" springs to gain some adjust ability with the struts set at their current location. If I decide to cut off more of the strut I can remove the spacer or make a shorter one and then either use the 8" or the 10" spring depending on how low I drop the front end.
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Long over due for an Update 10-06-14

I still have the car and look forward to finishing it someday. Since my last update, I finished the Chevelle and it was on the Cover of Super Chevy in May of 2014. I delivered it to the owner in early July.


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I then started another project for another customer; a 1969 GMC Pickup getting a custom four link rear suspension and airbags all around. This truck is getting close to being finished up, making a little time for the 242.

Then we decided to move to Denver, Co. and now I am swapped again trying to fix up the house to make the move.

With all of that, I have gotten a few things done.

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The only problem is, I bought my wheel adapters when planning to reuse a factory style strut setup and now I need a 10mm wider spacer to clear the coil spring.

The new spacers should be here on Monday, then I can get the front tires mounted up.

I am still working on my custom lower control arms for the rear, found I needed to change a few mounting points around. I hope to get those done between now and Monday also.

I also got to meet Wayne Carini from Chasing Classic Cars, while I was at my REAL job.
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Oh man, I'm so glad you're posting this!

I'm trying to have my Konis work with Scotty's camber plates. I'm using the stock strut assembly, not a coilover setup. Would be kind enough to share the dimensions of the top and bottom spacers along with any information you might have for adapting these to a stock strut spring retainer setup? I'd be much appreciative. :) :)
 
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I also got to meet Wayne Carini from Chasing Classic Cars, while I was at my REAL job.
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Very cool! Wanted to get my ATP since I was a toddler. Almost went through LAN's program in Chile to get a type rating in A319/20s in exchange for a few years of my life with them but never got the balls to make the trek. Small regret.

Can't recognize the cockpit from here. What do you fly, cap'n?
 
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