hiperfauto
The Librarian
- Joined
- Nov 18, 2011
- Location
- So Cal
Yeah, its the right one. The part number updates and it looks different but the same crush sleeve was used on 200/700/850/900/S70/S90/V70/V90.
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Yeah, its the right one. The part number updates and it looks different but the same crush sleeve was used on 200/700/850/900/S70/S90/V70/V90.
Got a torque wrench... most expensive do-all tool I own.Make sure you measure INCH POUNDS not foot/lbs.It's not my first rodeo...
Huh? You're asking for what else to replace "as long as you're in there", and yet...??Wondering if I can be cheap-ass and just shim the old crush sleeve. lol
Um, whoa... I doubt any insult was intended. Your comment hit me exactly the same way: a "do-all tool" is almost certainly referring to bolt tightness. In contrast, the inch-lb wrench is a "do only one thing" tool: rotational assessment. In the automotive context, setting up bearing preload is pretty much its only meaningful use. Steering columns and rear axles come to mind; not much else.
Huh? You're asking for what else to replace "as long as you're in there", and yet...??
If you've got your hands on an inch-lb wrench, you may as well set up a solid spacer. Then you'll never have to worry about the results. It will never crush further with application of significant engine torque (which I think was one of your concerns, running a 5.0?) And if you indulge in a habit of spinning tires, eventually the pinion oil seal will go, and replacing it will be 100x easier if you don't need to worry about pulling the whole thing apart to install another new crush sleeve. Just pull off the yoke, swap, and you're done.
Or.... you can cheap out, and then enjoy getting another chance to practice doing the same job again.
Make sure you measure INCH POUNDS not foot/lbs.
Just revisiting this again... according to the service manual it’s 185 ft/lbs to torque the pinion nut? Other sources say 145 ft/lbs...
Am I correct in believing I should slowly increase the torque starting at ~100 lf/lbs up to a max of 145 (or 185) for. 21-39 in.lbs of "new bearing" preload?
*scratches head*
You want to sneak up on it. I like to use my 1/2" impact on a low setting and check after 1-ugga-dugga, Then another ugga-dugga, check. Repeat until the bearing preload is correct. Way easier than using a pinion flange tool and a large breaker bar. Way easier.
Lube the seal up ahead of time, and apply the thread locker before you start...
Well my torque wrench doesn?t go low enough... I have no idea what preload I?m at. It feels about the same as when I disassembled it... still some movement back and forth. Dang.
I think I may have to get medieval with a string and weight contraption.
Or a cheap beam torque wrench?
https://www.ebay.com/p/8026714724
30in-lbs is 2.5 lb-ft, that's basically medium tight with a screw driver. If you grab the pinion flange by hand, it should require slight resistance, but not Popeye arms to turn it.
It is not a torque spec. I think of it as a "drag spec". It's the amount of drag before the pinion flange turns.
INCH POUNDS of drag. It's not much. Guys that have done it for a while may not even measure it, but just use a calibrated right hand to twist the flange and feel what it takes to make it move.
However, it does take A LOT of torque to initially crush that new sleeve. Yes, like 200+lbs. You need a long breaker bar and a good counter-holding tool, or 1/2" impact gun to do it.