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240 While I have the diff apart...

Yeah, its the right one. The part number updates and it looks different but the same crush sleeve was used on 200/700/850/900/S70/S90/V70/V90.
 
Got a torque wrench... most expensive do-all tool I own.
Make sure you measure INCH POUNDS not foot/lbs.
It's not my first rodeo...

Um, whoa... I doubt any insult was intended. Your comment hit me exactly the same way: a "do-all tool" is almost certainly referring to bolt tightness. In contrast, the inch-lb wrench is a "do only one thing" tool: rotational assessment. In the automotive context, setting up bearing preload is pretty much its only meaningful use. Steering columns and rear axles come to mind; not much else.

Wondering if I can be cheap-ass and just shim the old crush sleeve. lol
Huh? You're asking for what else to replace "as long as you're in there", and yet...??

If you've got your hands on an inch-lb wrench, you may as well set up a solid spacer. Then you'll never have to worry about the results. It will never crush further with application of significant engine torque (which I think was one of your concerns, running a 5.0?) And if you indulge in a habit of spinning tires, eventually the pinion oil seal will go, and replacing it will be 100x easier if you don't need to worry about pulling the whole thing apart to install another new crush sleeve. Just pull off the yoke, swap, and you're done.

Or.... you can cheap out, and then enjoy getting another chance to practice doing the same job again. :nod:
 
Um, whoa... I doubt any insult was intended. Your comment hit me exactly the same way: a "do-all tool" is almost certainly referring to bolt tightness. In contrast, the inch-lb wrench is a "do only one thing" tool: rotational assessment. In the automotive context, setting up bearing preload is pretty much its only meaningful use. Steering columns and rear axles come to mind; not much else.


Huh? You're asking for what else to replace "as long as you're in there", and yet...??

If you've got your hands on an inch-lb wrench, you may as well set up a solid spacer. Then you'll never have to worry about the results. It will never crush further with application of significant engine torque (which I think was one of your concerns, running a 5.0?) And if you indulge in a habit of spinning tires, eventually the pinion oil seal will go, and replacing it will be 100x easier if you don't need to worry about pulling the whole thing apart to install another new crush sleeve. Just pull off the yoke, swap, and you're done.

Or.... you can cheap out, and then enjoy getting another chance to practice doing the same job again. :nod:

lol. Need to use more emojis. It was light hearted.

“Do-all” as-in precision tool that does all the important bolt/nut work where “Ugga-chugga” isn’t accurate enough. Lug nuts, suspension components, etc. Most other work can be done with basic hand tools like wrenches and hammers... torches.

Yes, I just learned the crush washer can’t be crushed again. I found them locally so it wasn’t a big deal as I thought. Never thought to go with a solid. Oh well. Next time.

I’m past the “burnout” stage of my life and this car isn’t a drift weapon... the original 30 diff is toast because of the 5.0. I think the spider gear cross shaft is broken. Which I’m told is common.
 
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Make sure you measure INCH POUNDS not foot/lbs.

Just revisiting this again... according to the service manual it’s 185 ft/lbs to torque the pinion nut? Other sources say 145 ft/lbs...

Am I correct in believing I should slowly increase the torque starting at ~100 lf/lbs up to a max of 145 (or 185) for. 21-39 in.lbs of "new bearing" preload?

*scratches head*:e-shrug:
 
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Just revisiting this again... according to the service manual it’s 185 ft/lbs to torque the pinion nut? Other sources say 145 ft/lbs...

Am I correct in believing I should slowly increase the torque starting at ~100 lf/lbs up to a max of 145 (or 185) for. 21-39 in.lbs of "new bearing" preload?

*scratches head*:e-shrug:

You want to sneak up on it. I like to use my 1/2" impact on a low setting and check after 1-ugga-dugga, Then another ugga-dugga, check. Repeat until the bearing preload is correct. Way easier than using a pinion flange tool and a large breaker bar. Way easier.

Lube the seal up ahead of time, and apply the thread locker before you start...
 
You want to sneak up on it. I like to use my 1/2" impact on a low setting and check after 1-ugga-dugga, Then another ugga-dugga, check. Repeat until the bearing preload is correct. Way easier than using a pinion flange tool and a large breaker bar. Way easier.

Lube the seal up ahead of time, and apply the thread locker before you start...

Gotcha...

Been wondering what route to take with installing the seal. Torque the pinion enough so it’s loosely in position then tap the seal on Vs assembling it all and torquing it.

Right now the pinion is loosely in position. Been taking it easy and I’ve actually been stalling for a month to actually do it. lol. Most stuff I can get my head around and accomplish correctly. Gears and differentials on the other hand... they make me nervous.
 
I'm pretty sure you just assemble it all, and start torquing the pinion nut.

On diffs with solid pinion spacers, you leave the seal out. There's a much lower rotating torque/drag for those.
 
Well my torque wrench doesn’t go low enough... I have no idea what preload I’m at. It feels about the same as when I disassembled it... still some movement back and forth. Dang.

I think I may have to get medieval with a string and weight contraption.
 
Well my torque wrench doesn?t go low enough... I have no idea what preload I?m at. It feels about the same as when I disassembled it... still some movement back and forth. Dang.

I think I may have to get medieval with a string and weight contraption.

Or a cheap beam torque wrench?
https://www.ebay.com/p/8026714724

30in-lbs is 2.5 lb-ft, that's basically medium tight with a screw driver. If you grab the pinion flange by hand, it should require slight resistance, but not Popeye arms to turn it.
 
Or a cheap beam torque wrench?
https://www.ebay.com/p/8026714724

30in-lbs is 2.5 lb-ft, that's basically medium tight with a screw driver. If you grab the pinion flange by hand, it should require slight resistance, but not Popeye arms to turn it.

It?s below medium screwdriver tight by my muscly-wrench... lol. The resistance is most likely from the seal.

I?m still safe, fortunately.

Thanks
 
The seals are super tight when new. I was very surprised with the n-seal vs seal drag on the first solid pinion setup I did.
 
The pinion is squared away... it looks like it's still in spec after shimming the diff into position. Unfortunately I couldn't use the same shims that were on the original diff as I changed the gear ratio from 3.73 to 3.31... Being a dummy I just installed the bearings to the TrueTrac naked and shimmed the races. :-(

Now I know hell the shin thickness.
 
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Pinion preload

It is not a torque spec. I think of it as a "drag spec". It's the amount of drag before the pinion flange turns.

INCH POUNDS of drag. It's not much. Guys that have done it for a while may not even measure it, but just use a calibrated right hand to twist the flange and feel what it takes to make it move.

However, it does take A LOT of torque to initially crush that new sleeve. Yes, like 200+lbs. You need a long breaker bar and a good counter-holding tool, or 1/2" impact gun to do it.
 
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It is not a torque spec. I think of it as a "drag spec". It's the amount of drag before the pinion flange turns.

INCH POUNDS of drag. It's not much. Guys that have done it for a while may not even measure it, but just use a calibrated right hand to twist the flange and feel what it takes to make it move.

However, it does take A LOT of torque to initially crush that new sleeve. Yes, like 200+lbs. You need a long breaker bar and a good counter-holding tool, or 1/2" impact gun to do it.

I was using full ugga-dugga once the bearing contacted the crush sleeve. I figured "torque spec" was out the window at that point and have entered the realm of "farmer-tight".
 
I would put the original shims back in the original position and then measure ring gear backlash. Do you have a dial indicator and an adjustable base? Ol' skool guys just wiggle the ring gear by hand and feel if the backlash is about right. Too loose -it will whine. Too tight- burn up the gears.

And then check the contact pattern with marking compound.

1.Pinion bearing preload OK?
2. Ring gear backlash OK?
3. Contact pattern OK?

Go go go!



Watch some videos on youtube on setting up a differential. It should make more sense than reading about it.
 
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50825846453_c618f6ecfc_z.jpg


My pinion drag measuring tool... $7 fish scale and a chunk of wood. This will measure accurately enough.

Yes, guys like me aren’t good for the economy.
 
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