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Our latest '70 145 Project - Need a few things. Any Ideas?

An alternator question...and I bought a Green Book!

The green book is awesome. I now own "Ben's 1969 Green Book". I don't know who he is but appreciate the care he took in keeping this one clean.

I have been collecting parts before I actually start on the project. I scored a beautiful pair of NOS Cibie 7" Oscars. They are pretty big and I hope they fit with enough clearance between the spot on the bumper and the grille. I have a pair of Hella vintage lamp stabilizers that I will install to keep them steady. The Oscars plus my new headlamps will brighten up the night.

I bought a beautiful chrome fire extinguisher too. I'm probably going to swap out my distributor with a 123 Unit. I had one in my '67 M-B 230S Rally car and it worked well.

I'll be adding a few more electric pieces like a clock, MapLight and maybe a Brantz Rally Timer. So the question I have for my Volvo Experts is will I need to install a larger alternator to keep all of my electrics happy. I upgraded the alternator in my M-B 230S...(that I sold).

mercedes-benz-230s-10-most-memorable-classic-german-cars-of-2013-_20678746503_o.jpg
 
Good price on pre-programmed 123ignition distributors at scandix right now, if you want to buy enough other stuff to justify the shipping:

http://www.skandix.de/en/spare-parts/electrics/ignition/distributor/distributor-ignition-123ignition/1019613/

Or post in wanted for a used distributor for pennies on the dollar.

Yes, I reread the trail and you are correct - from the beginning. I?ll check on Monday weather permitting.

Did you *cough* tighten *cough* the steering box 1/8 turn against my advice as well?

:-P
 
The stock alternator probably produces something like 35 amps. And if it dies unexpectedly out on the road somewhere, the odds of getting a weird old Bosch that fits on the Volvo motor (or the more rare Marchal SEV version) from a random parts store is so close it rounds to zero.

I got a bolt-on bracket from Ron Kwas/Swedish Embassy ( https://www.sw-em.com/swemkits.htm#Alt kit ) and stuck a GM alternator on my PV's B20. Then I got a $50 eBay brand new Chinesium alternator to use with it and now I have 100A worth of bright lights.

I opted not to use the '1-wire' mode, which doesn't provide for a warning light. You can add the warning light with 2 wires. I went for the full 3 wire install - 1 HD wire to charge the battery, 1 skinny to run the warning light/excite the alternator, and a third wire to reference the voltage - so it regulates to 13.5-14 on the far side of the fuse block.
 

Well let me begin by telling you that the tiniest amount of adjustment will make a world of difference, the tiniest amount too tight will destroy the box and then finish by telling you that rebuilding them or finding new is basically nearly impossible.

3iq6mr.jpg


Oh and welcome to the joys of 140 ownership.

:x:
 
Getting ahead of myself - Headlights Bucket ?

There are different types of headlight buckets in my car and I don't know why. The driver's side has a bucket that holds the lamp in place with 3 plastic tabs with screw release. This type does not work with modern H4 Lamps because of the brackets or tabs fixed to the back of the lamp.

The passenger side has an insert that holds the lamp in place from behind and attached with 3 nuts to the bucket. This works perfectly. Am I missing something or can I try and source a used bucket like the Passenger side and mount it in place of the other type on the driver's side?

Driver-side_Battery-Behind-e1575828820473.jpg

Pass-Side-Insert-e1575828840449.jpg

Pass-Side-Insert-with-Bulb-e1575828798912.jpg
 
Obviously you have mismatched headlight buckets. The one with the metal retainer is the early style used -'70. '71- used the 3 plastic clips.

Either style should hold an H4 lens. You just need to align the metal brackets with the plastic clips for them to work.
 
Obviously you have mismatched headlight buckets. The one with the metal retainer is the early style used -'70. '71- used the 3 plastic clips.

Either style should hold an H4 lens. You just need to align the metal brackets with the plastic clips for them to work.

We came to that same conclusion this morning.
 
What is this and do I need it?

I have a Green Book and an Owners Manual but I can't find a reference to what this canister is.

Could be that I own a '70 and the Green Book is a '69 regardless, it does not appear to be connected to anything but it does have a black hose exiting the back of it heading towards the firewall. There is a spot for another hose near that one and one on the top of the canister.

Some early emissions contraption? Do I need it? Can I buy a new canister if I do need it?

I sent my distributor out to Ignition Engineering in Anaheim. They are going to rebuild it and tweak the advance curve a bit. I didn't ask them to do it but that is what they do. When it comes back, I have a Pertronix Ignitor to install.

I think I am done fooling around with the Volvo until after the new year. Merry Christmas to all!

59804240441__15F22192-0223-4AE6-A6B4-6D61E53F027D-e1576357216315.jpg
 
Charcoal canister for evaporative fuel emissions.
No, you don't need it to make the car perform well.
 
You don't need the charcoal canister, but there is probably a 3/8" or so metal pipe running back to the fuel tank that would need to be capped. You can go to www.gpc.se and download the parts catalog. Look for the diagram that shows the fuel system and it will give you the parts breakdown and pipe routing.
 
You don't need the charcoal canister, but there is probably a 3/8" or so metal pipe running back to the fuel tank that would need to be capped. You can go to www.gpc.se and download the parts catalog. Look for the diagram that shows the fuel system and it will give you the parts breakdown and pipe routing.

Thanks for the information but that link can't possibly be about Volvos.
 
If you remove the canister don't plug the line from the fuel tank as it's the vent and air needs to enter the tank as fuel is used.

Install a VW style fuel filter on the line instead. That will allow air into the tank while preventing dust and dirt from getting in.

If the charcoal canister isn't rusted through and the membrane is intact it's a good idea to use it. It prevents raw fuel from evaporating into the atmosphere.
 
If you remove the canister don't plug the line from the fuel tank as it's the vent and air needs to enter the tank as fuel is used.

Install a VW style fuel filter on the line instead. That will allow air into the tank while preventing dust and dirt from getting in.

If the charcoal canister isn't rusted through and the membrane is intact it's a good idea to use it. It prevents raw fuel from evaporating into the atmosphere.

If I understand you correctly, remove the tank (mine is a mess) and dead-end it with a VW style fuel filter? Why VW and which one?
 
Remove the canister, shorten the hose so the filter is held by one of the existing clamps on the inner fender and attach one of these.

imageproc.aspx
 
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