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Old 06-21-2018, 12:36 PM   #1
turbochimp
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Default 240 rear axle tab dimensions

I'm doing an 8.8 swap and have been planning on getting all the tabs made on a water-jet.

At this point, I'm not entirely sure how to spec the diameter for the rear axle bushing tab to produce the required press-fit. I plan on using Ben's/Kaplehenke (alum shell) spherical bushing for this. Does anyone have a diameter spec for stock or some advice on how much smaller to make the tab diameter assuming 3/16-1/4" steel tabs? I read Ben saying that shaving a little aluminum during install is ok - the ptfe inserts are removable so heat/freeze is on the table.

Thanks!
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Old 06-21-2018, 12:52 PM   #2
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Cut the OE brackets off of a donor axle and re-weld to the 8.8?
https://forums.tbforums.com/showthread.php?t=206405
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Old 06-21-2018, 02:05 PM   #3
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Yeah, that's an option but not my first. Was hoping to have axle pre-assembled before the swap. The donor I have seems too rusty to use.
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Old 06-21-2018, 02:27 PM   #4
Redwood Chair
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Post in wanted and hope somebody will cut them off of an axle they have laying around?
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Old 06-21-2018, 03:48 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbochimp View Post
... tabs made on a water-jet.

At this point, I'm not entirely sure how to spec the diameter for the rear axle bushing tab to produce the required press-fit. I plan on using Ben's/Kaplehenke (alum shell) spherical bushing for this. Does anyone have a diameter spec for stock or some advice on how much smaller to make the tab diameter assuming 3/16-1/4" steel tabs? I read Ben saying that shaving a little aluminum during install is ok - the ptfe inserts are removable so heat/freeze is on the table.

Thanks!
Water jet is usually +/- 5 thou on tolerance. You want a 1-2 thou for pressing those in if you're using 3/16 or 1/4" material. Waterjet will not get you what you want. You'd have to post machine or spend some time with a die-grinder.

Other option: get a steel bearing cup that's fitted for whatever bearing size Ben uses and weld it to some tabs. No issues with tolerance and you won't have to press the aluminum housings in.
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Old 06-21-2018, 04:11 PM   #6
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Or get some steel sleeves made for full length press fit. You might need a special cylinder made up to keep the tabs aligned (concentric and parallel) when welding anyways. You could get 2 sleeves made up and zap them in without too much misalignment paranoia.
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Old 06-21-2018, 04:25 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by tjanson View Post
Or get some steel sleeves made for full length press fit. You might need a special cylinder made up to keep the tabs aligned (concentric and parallel) when welding anyways. You could get 2 sleeves made up and zap them in without too much misalignment paranoia.
They're tapered and different IDs by ~1mm.

Still like my idea of tabs and all cut off so everything is still aligned.
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Old 06-21-2018, 04:49 PM   #8
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Still like my idea of tabs and all cut off so everything is still aligned.
Me too. And you can leave the original bushing shell in there when it gets welded on. Helps keep it all aligned.
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Old 06-21-2018, 07:56 PM   #9
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Me too. And you can leave the original bushing shell in there when it gets welded on. Helps keep it all aligned.
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Old 06-21-2018, 10:03 PM   #10
Redwood Chair
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Just make sure you weld them on the right way so the bushings will press out and not be obstructed by the hub.
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Old 06-22-2018, 08:39 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by Redwood Chair View Post
They're tapered and different IDs by ~1mm.
Oh. Nevermind. Theoretically you could still make a sleeve to match, but...
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Old 06-22-2018, 10:14 AM   #12
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Or do this...

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=323119
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Old 06-22-2018, 11:12 AM   #13
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Oh. Nevermind. Theoretically you could still make a sleeve to match, but...
There's a matching sleeve on every TAB ever that isn't undersized aftermarket garbage.
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Old 06-22-2018, 01:48 PM   #14
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I was trying to find that one to post. Thanks!
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