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T5 to T5 adapter (whiteblock engine to Ford 5 speed)

What clutch and flywheel are you going to be using?

850 flywheel (single mass). Haven't completely decided on the clutch yet but likely a Sachs 707 and someones disc with T5 splines.

My only concern is the pedal effort. The 850R clutch could be a little tiresome in traffic. Course with the hydraulic clutch I could play with a different master cylinder bore to help offset it.

The 850R clutch in my old t5r seemed to be holding up to 450ft/lbs ok but that was FWD. It spent majority of it's life roasting the tires into third gear.
 
No problem, fun project to work on.....how much thinner or thicker of a plate (not including the large round step for the bellhousing) do you think they could be made?
 
No problem, fun project to work on.....how much thinner or thicker of a plate (not including the large round step for the bellhousing) do you think they could be made?

I'm not sure quite yet. I actually am about 1mm from getting the bellhousing tight to the block. I'm not sure if the pilot is jammed against the bushing that's still in the crank (I didn't have a tool to pull it) or the bolts I got just ran out of thread (they weren't full threaded).

It's close enough for now to do what I need. I'm pretty sure it's just the bushing in the crank (it's stepped so it must be hitting where it necks down the furthest point into the crank).

BTW you get my email about the ID of the bearing retainer hole? Looks like that one I sent you was smaller than a genuine ford. Wasn't a big issue on my end, I just pulled the retainer, stuck a large extension thru it then "lathed" it against the grinder wheel (which is so worn out it went nice and slow).
 
I'm not sure quite yet. I actually am about 1mm from getting the bellhousing tight to the block. I'm not sure if the pilot is jammed against the bushing that's still in the crank (I didn't have a tool to pull it) or the bolts I got just ran out of thread (they weren't full threaded).

It's close enough for now to do what I need. I'm pretty sure it's just the bushing in the crank (it's stepped so it must be hitting where it necks down the furthest point into the crank).

BTW you get my email about the ID of the bearing retainer hole? Looks like that one I sent you was smaller than a genuine ford. Wasn't a big issue on my end, I just pulled the retainer, stuck a large extension thru it then "lathed" it against the grinder wheel (which is so worn out it went nice and slow).


Any update on this?

Yes, I got the email, I have a new cast steel one that I'll measure and adjust accordingly.

As for making more of these, my local metal supplier (recycling center :) ) has some plates laying around, however a few issues.

Plate 1,

3/4" thick, 20"x24", not sure if too thin to use if I remove about .100" off the thickness for the bell housing registration hole ( ?214,00 ) .....or do the dowel pin method or machine a pieces and bolt them on that have a radius that matches the ?214,00 feature and retain the .750" thickness.

Cost of material would be $114 (including $9 sales tax)
$3 per pound, .0975x.75x20x24=35.1 pounds
I could get 4 adapters from this, so $28 in materials per adapter, not too bad and something I could afford to do and sit on an adapter or 2 (I figure $75 to $85 labor/machine time per adapter, start to finish, including buying the material, cutting and shipping, 2 hours labor give or take )

Plate 2.

1" thick, 34"x72"...238.68 pounds! So that would cost me $777 in materials...not going to happen since I'd have to sell 6 adapters at $130 to break even!

Enough rambling :)


I'll have to look into some other material resources, I wish I still traveled to San Jose, they have some good places for material and will cut them as well, the place near my place will only cut the steel and not aluminum.
 
Not much to update other than it fit great!

Actually, so it looks like the RN crank might be different in the pilot bearing end of it than the earlier crank which might explain why I'm about 1mm too long on the input shaft. I think I'd be careful going down to 3/4".

Like I said, might not be an issue with the first gen whiteblocks. I could loosen the transmission from the bellhousing and see if the bellhousing will draw down the last 1mm. Could be a couple reasons for this (amongst other things, not actually having the original bellhousing bolts, just Lowes' specials LOL).
 
Not much to update other than it fit great!

Actually, so it looks like the RN crank might be different in the pilot bearing end of it than the earlier crank which might explain why I'm about 1mm too long on the input shaft. I think I'd be careful going down to 3/4".

Like I said, might not be an issue with the first gen whiteblocks. I could loosen the transmission from the bellhousing and see if the bellhousing will draw down the last 1mm. Could be a couple reasons for this (amongst other things, not actually having the original bellhousing bolts, just Lowes' specials LOL).

Yea, I noticed you sinned and used SAE threads for that and not metric! :lol: :oops:
 
Yea, I noticed you sinned and used SAE threads for that and not metric! :lol: :oops:

They ARE metric but they are only threaded so far. I couldn't quite get the right size so it's very possible that I'm on the shoulder of the bolt before getting the bellhousing tight.

But I *doubt* it, I would think if that was the case I'd be able to wobble the trans/bellhousing and it's tight as can be. I'm 99% sure it's got the input shaft tight into the end of the crank.

Honestly, if I was using this bottom end I'd just have the machine shop mill it out a bit.
 
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My bad...I thought I tried an M12-1.75 and it wouldn't thread in all the way so I just assumed it was SAE and I really didn't care too much since I knew what I was going to use for the other 4 holes I drilled and tapped.
 
I need a t5 to t5 adapter plate. How much are they and where do i order? Also what bell housing do i need for this?
 
I need a t5 to t5 adapter plate. How much are they and where do i order? Also what bell housing do i need for this?

Not sure if any "real" companies like Kalphanke or Roger-Dee have plans to make them yet.

I need to make 3 of them myself, I am not a "real" company, just a hack part time home hobbyist machinist...Goal is no more than $150, hopefully shipped in the US at that price.
 
Any plans on making another one soon? I will gladly send you $200 for one. Really needing this done for my project and for me it's one of the most difficult pieces for me to build.
 
Any plans on making another one soon? I will gladly send you $200 for one. Really needing this done for my project and for me it's one of the most difficult pieces for me to build.

I can make another one....no need to pay more, I'll try and grab some material this weekend.
 
Hi I live in Scotland what would a t5 adaptor for the white block cost regards william
 
Well, I guess I am committed now to making a few more!

36x72x1 plate....260 pounds....$846.30..ouch...If and that is a big IF I made 18 plates from this that would be about $47 per plate just in material!

I'm guessing about 10 total is all I'll sell...so to find some other things to make with the left over material..
 

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