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Wet sanding your head/tail lights...

colgate41

Active member
Joined
Jul 31, 2008
Location
New York
Anyone wet sand their head/tail lights? With a good outcome? What do you think 1000 grit sandpaper tp start with?

These dont look good. Id like to get some tips?

740TurboRear2.jpg
 
Ive used rubbing/polishing compound, and 2000 grit sand paper with good results, followed by a clear coat of spray model paint. Worked well on the headlights.
 
I don't know about wet sanding, but I have successfully cleared up some pretty hazy headlights with some Mother's Billet Metal Polish. May seem strange (and I thought so too when I was first given the advice) but it works!
 
Yeah, i have used a plastic polish on the headlights in the past week. Took a lot of yellow out of them. Did the same for the tail lamps but as you can see it all kinda came back. Maybe the mothers powerball?
 
Yeah, i have used a plastic polish on the headlights in the past week. Took a lot of yellow out of them. Did the same for the tail lamps but as you can see it all kinda came back. Maybe the mothers powerball?

Actually, I got better results with the metal polish than I've ever gotten with plastic polish. Strange but true.
 
Polish is a surface treatment. But it's not something that protects. So after you polish you should use the suggested clear coat spray paint. From the pictures I recall seeing here. That really makes the old lights look great again.
 
Anyone wet sand their head/tail lights? With a good outcome? What do you think 1000 grit sandpaper tp start with?

These dont look good. Id like to get some tips?

740TurboRear2.jpg

This is the professional lens restoration kit.

<a href="http://s255.photobucket.com/albums/hh136/redwoodchair/Davis%202008/?action=view&current=3MHeadlightrestorationsystem1.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh136/redwoodchair/Davis%202008/3MHeadlightrestorationsystem1.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

<a href="http://s255.photobucket.com/albums/hh136/redwoodchair/Davis%202008/?action=view&current=3MHeadlightRestorationSystem2.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh136/redwoodchair/Davis%202008/3MHeadlightRestorationSystem2.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

Here is a smaller 'consumer' kit

<a href="http://s255.photobucket.com/albums/hh136/redwoodchair/Davis%202008/?action=view&current=3MConsumerlenspolishingkit-1.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh136/redwoodchair/Davis%202008/3MConsumerlenspolishingkit-1.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

I have polished a number of lenses with the pro kit,and it goes quickly,
unless the fogging/yellowing is severe.

Over the counter products can be substituted with excellent results,but it will take a bit more time.

From what I can see of your lens,I would start with #1000 wetsand on a drill with a softpad if possible, then #1500 & #2500.
The trizact soft backed pads in the kit goes from 1000 to 3000,so it takes a while with the #3000.
Then a lens cleaner solution on the convoluted foam pad.
Going from 3000 to the first surfacing with compound is amazing as the color and shine
of the lens emerges.
Rubbing compound,and finer compound for dark paint,then commercial plastic polish would
be a good progression using over the counter products on a pad,or sheepskin buffing wheel.
 
Treat them exactly like you would any paint job and they will come out great. Really bad oxidation, I will start with 600 wet/dry used wet. Follow up with 1000 and then hit them with heavy cutting compound and a buffer. Follow up with some finishing compound and they look great.
 
Treat them exactly like you would any paint job and they will come out great. Really bad oxidation, I will start with 600 wet/dry used wet. Follow up with 1000 and then hit them with heavy cutting compound and a buffer. Follow up with some finishing compound and they look great.

Exactly. Light lenses are acrylic resin. All you are trying to do is remove the top, oxidised layer of plastic.

Regards, Andrew.
 
I did all this on my GF's '96 Ford Falcon about 3 years ago, as it had yellowed headlights ... worked really well initially, used about 3 grades of really-light-grade sandpaper. It only took a year before they got just as bad as they'd been.
 
Clear coat is a cop-out. If you've removed enough material to get down past the damage, clear coat won't be needed (or stick to the smooth plastic). Clear coat can be used to skip the polishing altogether, what it does is the same thing wax does for your paint: it fillls in the little pits and makes the surface look smooth again.
 
Only if it advertises UV protection in the clear, can I see it being a good idea long-term. Otherwise you'll just have flaking and ugly clear coat to deal with in a few years.
 
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