+T oil return line.

I have seen a rise in turbo drain related threads. Soo...

REMOVE YOUR OIL PAN!!!!! "Just rinse it out" is not good enough. We are all lazy and our time is valuable but come on man look at this mess.



Step two: Drill



Keep well lubed.



I stepped up the bits starting small and ended with a rather large 3/4" hole.



Tapping it takes a bit but patients pays off, every 1-2 turns remove the tap completely clean the tap and the hole then apply more cutting oil. or lube.



I used a 3/4"npt to 5/8" barb high pressure brass fitting. You can find them at any hardware store that has a decent selection (home depot did no have them)



Out of focus but you get the point.



Then i hybridized a t3 drain tube with some 15g drain tube. (the reason i did this is because the hose i had would not fit over the t3 drain tube) Or you can use bigger hose and a larger barb fitting. (recommended)



And two hose clamps and piece of 5/8th" weatherhead hose (or any high temp oil resistant hose) to finish it off.


Thanks for reading

I can see oil squirter humps. Probably no oil squitrers?

Nope no squirters its a 91 n/a block.

Did you take more pictures from below? Its interesting if the places are milled/drilled and closed with bolts?

I did not know the oil pan was removable while the engine was still in the car

vanapeer said:

Did you take more pictures from below? Its interesting if the places are milled/drilled and closed with bolts?

Click to expand...

my 1991 240 block has the bumps but no machined faces/capped holes for the squirters. I had a set on hand to mount but it would have taken too much time and $$ to fit them.


btw, my drain setup:


22 mm hydraulic hose, 12-L. iirc 240 mm length including the 45 degree bend. fitting welded to block, 25 mm hole. overkill but very flexible for use with a header in the future and it wont leak.

that last picture looks freaky! RINGU!

nice shots though - makes it very clear

ok, so i need to know, if I want to remove the oil pan, does the engine need to come out?

fisky52688 said:

ok, so i need to know, if I want to remove the oil pan, does the engine need to come out?

Click to expand...

It doesn't have to...but it's obviously waaaaay easier to remove with the engine out. The main thing in the way is the crossmember.
If you're leaving the engine in...you can simply put the engine on a cherry picker and remove the motor mounts & tranny mount and lift up on the engine slightly enough to unbolt the pan, turn it a bit, and remove it.

If you have the old B23F like I do, there's no provision/boss on the bottom of the block to drill and tap for an oil return so you have to weld on a bung or piece of pipe to the oil pan. Newer blocks, like the one in the pic I give below, have a boss near the back of the passenger side of the block you can drill/tap for a return.

Here's a link with a pic and a little explanation
http://www.pbase.com/740atl/image/41078591

thank you 24D

Also with the engine suspended by something (be it a cherry picker or a couple of 2x4's laid across the fenders with a hook-bolt used to lift the engine up), you will still have to at least unbolt the crossmember, which is no big deal. All in all this is easier than actually removing the engine.

1/2" ID hose or a 1/2" barb fitting is getting on the small side of things, 5/8" would be more ideal (that's like -10) or like myself and JW240 did, use 3/4" (-12) for uber flow.

Since this is an article, lets get as much info as we can into it. Another good way to go is to get a fitting welded to the oil pan like Homer did in these pics. It's not the most ideal solution, but it does work. Make sure to weld it in above the baffle and as high as you possibly can.




PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE STAY AWAY FROM JB WELD! It's barely acceptable as a sealing fluid, but if you make it hold any weight there's a strong likelyhood that it'll fail, been there done that.

Here's a thread with lots of information, although its sort of all over the place:
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=174712

And here's my -12 fitting welded to my B23 block. It weeps a tiny bit of oil but nothing to cry about, just enough to collect dust and look gross.

i drilled the hole and shaved the thread off my threaded nipple so it was a very tight fit, put jb weld in the nipple and pounded it in the hole with a hammer. its never coming out! this was on my dd 240+t

2fast242gt said:

i drilled the hole and shaved the thread off my threaded nipple so it was a very tight fit, put jb weld in the nipple and pounded it in the hole with a hammer. its never coming out! this was on my dd 240+t

Click to expand...

Lol! however i would never recommend this it is a good idea.

fisky52688 said:

ok, so i need to know, if I want to remove the oil pan, does the engine need to come out?

Click to expand...

No, like said above undo the motor mounts and get the engine as high up as possible. after that lower the crossmember. Fiddle around with the pan and it should be able to come off its just kinda a pain to get it down.

If you dont have access to a lift make sure you get your car as high up off the ground as safely possible.

2fast242gt said:

i drilled the hole and shaved the thread off my threaded nipple so it was a very tight fit, put jb weld in the nipple and pounded it in the hole with a hammer. its never coming out! this was on my dd 240+t

Click to expand...

Yeah that works, the oil return system isn't under any pressure so people just need to be sure that it'll NEVER rattle out or come out on its own for whatever reason.

I was actually thinking of doing something like adding a triangular chunk of metal, (think fuel tank sump) to the top edge of my oil pan, that would house a fitting and have the drain go nearly completely vertical.

I'm not sure if it's a good idea or not...just a thought. Any feedback on this idea anybody?

Kinda something like this...but with only 1 fitting...and a lot smaller overall obviously (to fit between the bolts holes).
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CEE-4040/?image=large
http://www.synapseturbo.com/mm5/mer...ode=syn-syn-sum-01&Category_Code=fuel_systems
http://www.full-race.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=883

If not something bought premade...I think a little bit of sheet metal, a fitting, and a welder could make it happen.

That could be pretty cool, although the complexity isn't really necessary. I'm sure it'd work great though! On the other hand, there's very little room to work with between the area above the baffle and the outer lip of the oil pan, like maybe 1". Also to cut a square hole where you'd weld the new part on, you're cutting through two layers, FYI.

The Aspirator said:

Yeah that works, the oil return system isn't under any pressure so people just need to be sure that it'll NEVER rattle out or come out on its own for whatever reason.

Click to expand...

yeah i had to hammer the fitting in, works awsome! jb weld was used as a sealent.

2fast242gt said:

i drilled the hole and shaved the thread off my threaded nipple so it was a very tight fit, put jb weld in the nipple and pounded it in the hole with a hammer. its never coming out! this was on my dd 240+t

Click to expand...

damn I think ill try this.
is the drain hole you guys drilled the same size as the hole on factory turbo cars?
I want to use the 3/4"npt to 1/2" barb high pressure brass fitting like above.

mines 3/4 hole 1/2 barb on my dd. my 242 is a 3/4 hole and 3/4 drain for the holset.

spruill745 said:

damn I think ill try this.
is the drain hole you guys drilled the same size as the hole on factory turbo cars?
I want to use the 3/4"npt to 1/2" barb high pressure brass fitting like above.

Click to expand...

Im not sure what the factory size is but 3/4" is probably the best size to do because its more universal than 1/2"

If you are wanting to do what brian (2fast242) did then you will need to bring into consideration the size of the npt thread depth. You need to make sure that you do not drill the hole to big.

Honestly man, i would try and find a tap and spend another 10 minutes to have a more reliable drain.

2fast242gt said:

mines 3/4 hole 1/2 barb on my dd. my 242 is a 3/4 hole and 3/4 drain for the holset.

Click to expand...

Nice, ill probably swap my brass fitting out to 3/4-3/4 when i go to a holset as well.