• Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
    You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here

    Thank you for being a part of our community!

Help/advice needed for the lil sweetie! (B230ft Kjet 1983 Volvo 242 turbo NA)

I meant spark plug wires, distributor cap, and the rotor that goes under the cap. I missed some punctuation...

Here's an update on all the stuff I've done per my dad when he owned it...:

Fuel injectors on 3/6/18
Fuel filter on 3/6/18
In tank Fuel Pump 11/9/17
Wires, plugs, cap and router plus tune 1/17/19
Clutch 5/25/18
Injector seals 1/7/19

As of 8/12 I reset the idle to be closer to 1500 ish which is what my car seems to dig. It's driving better ish... But it's still shaking. I can feel it under the pedals when I'm accelerating mostly in 3rd and 4th... 4th is the harsher of the two.

I did a check on the engine mounts and they seem to be pretty sturdy. I did find that there's now a crack in my muffler between where it starts and the underside of the car. So that could explain the exhausty smell I get sometimes.

I guess I got quite the cart of parts to order here soon. Again not afraid to purchase good parts to take care of it rightm I'm not so much into performance atleast as long as I'm getting it to a good reliable place where I can just drive it daily everywhere I need to go. It's kinda my happy place and even though it's hot here and my AC is on the fritz I still love it.

Anyways, any of those things I listed you think would be good to fix anyways just to eliminate any potential problems? It's weird when a car changes ownership... My dad's a bit cheap and likes to fix things when they are broken... I love and care for my car and just want to treat it right and take good care of it so I can drive it for the next xx amount of years. It's sick and no one I know drives a car like mine and I dig old cars and doing **** different than everyone else haha.

Thx for listening to my rambling bud. You've been a great help so far!
 
My frist suggestion would be to get a Bentley manual and a Haynes manual. At least the Bentley. Read the maintenance section. In fact just read the whole book. There may be some youtube videos. There are pictures on the web as well.

What I usually suggest is to plan on a 60k mile type service. That makes all of the routine maintenance on your schedule of care. The 60k service is a extensive service of all fluids and filters along with tunes up. Lube the door hinges, hood hinges, trunk hinges. Lube the locks and latches. Good stuff like that.

As for vacuum leaks. A common leak on these are the injector seals and intake manifold gasket. If it's been more than three years in a hot area your injector seals are shot. Be sure to buy Volvo, Elring, or Reinz gasket brands. Others may work but I'd be careful of just using anything. The silicon hoses that handle the air also decay.

If you donate to the board. You can post attachments. :cool:

The manuals I have:
A Chilton Volvo coupes sedans and wagons 1970-89 manual and a Haynes 1976-1993 240 series manual.
Never seen the Bentley one before... Do you recommend it? Is it much different from the other if you've seen them?
 
Yes, the Bentley is the best manual to have if you have an aftermarket manual. The turbo section in it is very good. Bentley is a factory manual supplier to BMW, VW, and other car makers.

It's a better manual to read as well. Your idle is supposed to be regulated by an electronic idle control Volvo calls CIS. Seems like whatever is going on. That not working is part of the problems. Your idle should be about 950rpms.

I think if you spend some time checking the various systems that manage the engine you'll figure out what is out of spec. Get a meter with a dwell function and a test light. Try to find someone with a kjetronic fuel pressure tester or build one. A timing light. These will let you trouble shoot and make sure the engine is set to spec. Get tools and diagnose before you just throw parts at it. The bentley manual also has a good sectioin at the front with recommended tools.
 
As mentioned, complete vacuum hose replacement is cheap and relatively easy and can fix a variety of stuff on kjet.

I am not sure what your situation is so just throwing this out there before you get too deep into trying to resolve kjet issues - you may want to look at a LH 2.4 conversion. It takes time and money up front, but I don't think it would take very many kjet repairs to pay for itself. And, once setup, it should be bulletproof for the life of the engine. When I started with kjet, I was never even able to find a mechanic that was even willing to look at kjet stuff.
 
As mentioned, complete vacuum hose replacement is cheap and relatively easy and can fix a variety of stuff on kjet.

I am not sure what your situation is so just throwing this out there before you get too deep into trying to resolve kjet issues - you may want to look at a LH 2.4 conversion. It takes time and money up front, but I don't think it would take very many kjet repairs to pay for itself. And, once setup, it should be bulletproof for the life of the engine. When I started with kjet, I was never even able to find a mechanic that was even willing to look at kjet stuff.

any sources on LH conversion? is that putting in a completely new engine?
 
There are threads/how-to's here and elswhere. Actually, I think the kjet>lh 2.2 swap is more straight forward than LH 2.4. I'm not saying to that it is must-do but its worth looking at if you have long term plans. Its certainly a non-trivial project - but mastering kjet is also probably non-trivial. Maybe others have some advice.
 
I was talking to a local guy yesterday who told me he used a custom made carb from a boat on his b21ft engine... Anyone ever heard of that?
 
Mastering K Jet is difficult even with the help from our resident experts, but it was used by Mercedes and Porsche into the 1990s. I found it is not that difficult to find someone who knows how to fix it, keeping in mind you are looking for older Mercedes or Porsche specialists.

Blowing a turbo through a carb is also very difficult, most are not made for that. Sucking through a carb into a turbo is a very bad idea for several reasons, the main one is fire, turbos get extremely hot and a small problem turns large quickly. There are very good reasons not to do either of those, especially if you have no idea what you are doing.

LH conversions are also well covered here, you need to spend a few hours reading stuff. It may become a lot clearer. Our search function isn't the best, use Googles site search function and you will get better results.
 
OP, if it helps I'm in the middle of a restoration on a 240 Turbo just like yours. I have a sporadically updated build thread in the builds section. It's mostly me tackling oil leaks and diagnosing & identifying other issues.

Just a heads up, but make sure whatever wrenches/wrench sets you buy or borrow include a 19mm, 22mm, and 25mm.
 
I was talking to a local guy yesterday who told me he used a custom made carb from a boat on his b21ft engine... Anyone ever heard of that?

Stay away. Stay very far away. Your fuel injection is worth fixing or updating to efi. Doing a carb install like that is the kind of stuff that will send a car like yours to the junkyard and be crushed.
 
Stay away. Stay very far away. Your fuel injection is worth fixing or updating to efi. Doing a carb install like that is the kind of stuff that will send a car like yours to the junkyard and be crushed.

True, but on the other hand, carb+turbo is an excellent method for the intercooler>IED conversion mod
 
True, but on the other hand, carb+turbo is an excellent method for the intercooler>IED conversion mod

Actually the first large production turbo car. The Chevy Corvair used a suck through turbo system. They were quite fun for their time. Up to 180hp in the Corsa turbo models. Great dash and suspension on the 65-66 corsa models.
 
There are several good reasons to never combine turbos and carbs. As I said before, fire and explosions are the best of those reasons, poor tuning capabilities are on the other end of the spectrum. Finding a shop to help you out is the easiest way outta this. The 2nd easiest way out is a simple Megasquirt setup to ditch the K Jet and have EFI, but that requires knowing what you are doing or figuring it out. The third best is trying to get the K Jet working with the generous help of our experts, you will owe a lotta beers when that's done. I failed at fixing mine even with the help and special tools due to severely modified wiring inside the car.

What is your skill level is a question you really need to ask yourself. Are you willing to spend the $ on special tools and books and time learning? Or can a local Mercedes specialist fix it for cheaper while you do less frustrating stuff?
 
Back
Top