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240 warm up regulator for an 83 240 Turbo. Dont know the correct part number but Im p

The banjo adapter is just a female threaded hole. You reuse the banjo bolt to attach the hose with the banjo to the adapter.

TurboK-JetFuelPressureGauge.jpg


You can rent the OE Volvo gauge from me but that kit will be cheaper if it has the correct adapters.

K-JetFuelPressureGauge.jpg
 
Well I ordered a pressure tester. Meanwhile going thru the Bentley manual checking all I can, I got up to the frequency valve test. It buzzes as it should.
I disconnected the Ox sensor and connected my old dwell meter. I read 67... according to Bentley should be 47-53.... so its a little high
I reconnected the Ox sensor and reads the same 67.
Then I proceeded to check the switches... thermal cutout and pressure switch grounded.... result was 38 (spec is 71-77)
Then I connected the Ox sensor and duty cycle readsame as disconnected 67
With the AC on duty cycle goes up to 76
continued the checking of the freq valve. input is there...test light glows and resistance is 2.7 ohms (in spec of 2-3 ohms)

Just to see what would happen I disconected the WUR and duty cycle went down to 10.....
Also checked the signal coming out of the Ox sensor disconnected(engine on of course) read .89-.99Volts Ox sensor Seems to be good
Also tested with another ECU, results were the same

Does this information tell you any thing? I cant make much sense of it.
 
From reading that the systems seems to be out of adjustment. First is your dwell meter a needle or digital? If it's a needle and doesn't have a four cylinder range then you use half the 8 cylinder reading.

From what I recall you should observe the complete warmup cycle. When you start the car you should get about 30 seconds or so of 60 degree dwell, then it will drop to 50 degrees. After another 30 secs to a minute or so the lambda computer starts checking the o2 sensor for reference. It usually take a bit like ten minutes or more to get it up to full temp. It should get hot enough that you see a swing in dwell as the computer samples the sensor and makes corrections. You usually have hold the engine at a high idle to keep the sensor hot when you check dwell at idle.

If you disconnect the o2 sensor the dwell should be a default 45 degrees. with the o2 sensor connected you should see the dwell change about 3 to 4 degrees up and down as the unit corrects. If you lean out the idle mixture the dwell will go up. If you richen up the idle mixture the dwell will go down. You need a fresh oil change and clean air filter to adjust the mixture. 3mm long allen for adjustment. Also clean the screw with some carb cleaner before using the allen wrench in it.

When you ground the pressure switch it should go up to about 75 dwell which due to the design actually richens the mixture for boost.

The warmup regulator can be tested once you have the fuel test rig. But you just need to make sure it has good electrical connections right now.
 
Dwell meter is a analog (needle) old Heathkit. Its selected at the 4 cyl scale.
Ill go over the electrical connections and grounds tomorrow.

Ive adjusted the 3mm mixture (its clean)adjustment both ways. If I go to lean the engine bogs down immediately upon acceleration. If I go leaner it starts oscilating at idle and the leaner I go it stalls.
When I turn clockwise (richer) it accelerates better but still bogs down and spits pretty crude gas )black puffs) out the exhaust.
 
OK well the oscillating is actually the desirable effect. It's supposed to oscillate about 41-44. Personally with the alcohol in the gas I go down to about 39-40 degrees and it likes it there. But that is still within the range of the o2 sensor so it will oscillate.

Remember at idle the richer you go the lower the dwell number. The leaner you go at idle the higher the dwell. That is because you are doing a mechanical adjustment of the mixture and then the lambda system compensates. So it will add or remove fuel as needed to try to keep it around the stoich zone.

However, when the engine needs enrichment like the boost pressure switch on the firewall it grounds terminal 7 in the ecu so it will raise the dwell for more fuel under boost.
 
By oscillating I meant the engine idle, not the dwell meter needle. The dwell stays pretty steady at 67.
the dwell isnt changing by adjusting the mixture with the ox sensor disconnected. When I connect it it doesnt change. doesnt default to 45 either
 
Your dwell meter needle should oscillate but be centered around the numbers I mention. Staying at one location either means something like the o2 sensor is bad. It could also be that you have some wiring harness issues where something is grounded out or connected wrong. Are the two grounds on the intake manifold each going to a separate location? I mean the ones toward the rear of the intake manifold. They are grounds for the lambda controller and each have to go to a separate bolt on the manifold. Is terminal 7 grounded out all the time? That would make the engine rich and have a high dwell number. Might even be a bad lambda controller or an incorrect one on a car this old. There are only a few connections to check. You can go in the right kick panel and check the wiring on the connector to the computer. If you can find one a green book wiring diagram for your year is nice to have.
 
BTW the most proper way to set the mixture is to disconnect the o2 sensor. Then set the mixture with a CO tester connected before the cat. There is a test port on the top of the stock down pipe for this. Once you have the mixture set proper mechanically. Then reconnect o2 and fine tune with the dwell meter. You may have to rev the engine for 30 seconds or so then idle and recheck to keep the o2 sensor hot.
 
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