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Atom's Amazon Wagon Project Update Thread

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Going with some classic winged valve cover hold downs
 
Nice! Got anything in mind for the BMW logo on the top of the intake?

I have an extra manifold that I'll shave/paint and probably add the logo I put on the center caps. It?s the Volvo iron logo around the BMW logo. Just like the car.
 
Dude, I love it! I really cant say enough about your level of detail. I cant wait to see this thing in person...

It?s a LOOOOOOONG ways from being done done, but I?m touting this year as the ?see behind the curtain? year. Eventuallyit should be all smooth/paneled up and it?ll be tougher to see the marriage stuff.
 
Made it all the way to Portland. Only hiccup was still in Seattle when I stopped at my buddy’s house. Alternator locked up. Quick swap and back on the road.

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Three years in a row one of my cars takes best of show. Honestly, I didn’t expect anything this year. Especially with the level of incompletion and the amount of BMW in it, but I’m glad they appreciate all the effort that it took. My wife is the best too.
 
Awesome. Congrats! Do you do this type of work for a living? At least some artistic expression?

I’m an integration engineer with a satellite antenna company in Seattle. I’m basically responsible for putting our antenna into/onto things that move.
 
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Here’s some of the stuff I did previous to iPd

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Splitter:

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Spoiler:

I’ve always wanted to build a hatch spoiler for this car. The first thing I did was make a template of the contour of the top of the hatch out of 1/4” MDF. Then, when I had it shaped the way I wanted, I made several copies with the table router to create a mold to do the top part of the spoiler.

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Easiest way to make a part off this is to glue down some foil and spray it with PVA mold release.

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Then I vacuum bagged a layup of two layers carbon and two CSM fiberglass layers.

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Then I figured out about how much I wanted it to stick out and trimmed it to match the contour of the hatch opening. Adding holes to access the hatch mounts.

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Next I masked off the top of the hatch. The tip here is to plan ahead. Lay down some double backed tape and mask over that. That will create space for adhesive later.

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Next I laid down three layers of CSM fiberglass and while it was still wet I added the top layer.

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Once dry, trim and check fit.

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Next, tape off all the outside surfaces and add two part expanding foam. Then shape with razor knife and sandpaper (shapes easy)

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Then I brushed on a layer or two of fiberglass resin to create a skin then bondo smooth

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Next, mask off (again) all the outer surfaces and add multiple layers of masking tape around the edges. Then I gently (so it doesn’t crush the foam) vacuum bag two layers of carbon to the bottom.

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The reason for multiple layers around the edge is so that you can grind the new carbon back around the perimeter until you get to the tape and the other surfaces will be safe.

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Next comes a couple layers of clear gel coat. Interesting note: fiberglass resin is air inhibited. Meaning that it stays tacky when exposed to air so that you can add layers and have them stick to each other. In my experience, if you want a surface cure on your gel coat, you can spray PVA over the gel coat and it’ll seal the surface. Then when you sand the PVA will peel off.

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Once it’s sanded flat, I clear coat with automotive clear to add UV protection.

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Then it’s time to install. I use a combo of 3M tape (now stick) and urethane adhesive (long term stick).

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Rinse, dry, repeat. The whole process took about a week of mornings and evenings in between trying to troubleshoot my cooling issues. It’s not perfect, but it sure is good enough.
 
DIY BBK:

Stock rotor/caliper

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This pic is important because with this offset wheel on this particular car, I can’t run a spacer any thicker than 5mm

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So, I measured the distance between the ball joint and the back of the rotor and started searching for something in the diameter I wanted (330mm) with a center bore larger than the E30’s (so I can use centering rings instead of machining our the rotors) and had a deep enough “hat” to push the rotor back towards the tie rod end.

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Turns out 2014 Jeep Cherokee Sport rotors fit the bill. Available from AutoZone for +/-$75 each.

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I used four piston Wilwood calipers bought from JEGS for $125 a piece (pads were an additional $50 and they have WAYYYYY too many compound options). Then I made some aluminum adapters on my CNC router and bolted them on. I bought Empi adapters to convert the 1/8” NPT opening on the calipers to M10 bubble flare ($28 a pair) and used some Volvo stainless brake lines I had around from a C30 (you might be able to use the stock E30 lines since they are M10 bubble flare, but the length is iffy)

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Notes/disclaimers:
-Yes, I’m aware that it will upset the brake bias of the car. I’m ok with that. I don’t track it, but I LOVE big brakes (and I cannot lie)
-The pad surface is about 25% bigger than an E30’s, but it still only uses the outer 2/3 of the rotor. I’m ok with that too. I’m on a budget and clearances were tight. Plus, if you’re only gonna catch 2/3, it’s best to be the outer 2/3
-I need to put a bigger bore master cylinder in. There’s more travel in the pedal than I’d like. I’ve read there’s a 25mm upgrade that came OE on another BMW. I’m gonna look into that

Gains:
-More pad area
-Increased moment
-More piston clamping area
-More rotor mass for heat dissipation

-I don’t think brake fluid is supposed to look like this

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That came out while bleeding the rears.
 
Next is something annoying, but simple. Defrost ducts:

You don’t think about stuff like that until only the center of your windshield defogs from air just passing up through holes in the dash. I still have to make the part that connects the heater box to this diverter, but it’s a start.

My hand built “hot work” station. This was the oven out of my house when we remodeled. I use an Eastwood powdercoat gun and a made a vacuu-forming jig

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I basically have a wood frame to clamp the plastic in that fits in the shelf spots in the oven. Then I wired up a receptacle to a push button that turns on the shop vac when you push down on the frame.

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https://youtu.be/tzWrbcK0wUc

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That’s it for now.
 
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Last time I took this picture, Headquarters was on a trailer. Feels much better this time.
 
Expansion tank:

The discolored plastic tank drove me crazy and they’re over $100 for a replacement, so I made my own.

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