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Official LH2.4 EZK Wasted Spark Conversion - Installation Instructions

Alright gang so I'm a visual guy. Diagrams don't cut it for me or make this easy to comprehend.
Finishing up my wiring and not sure how to hook it up.
I'm using Bosch 2x2 coils and a 203 ignition module.
Have the board and wiring to engine bay and have repinned the new connector for the new ignitor.
I've been advised to keep the old ignitor intact and connected to original heatsink and run power from the original coil which is blue wire on b230ft lh2.4.
Not sure how to take power from the coil or do the relay thing if I even need to.
Can someone help?
If you can explain how you got power and ground from your original coil and what you did with your old ignitor and coil that would be great.
I would preferably like to move or delete the old coil eventually so need to know what I need to do.
Thanks for being patient with me.
 
Yesterday I got it to start and run but really weak and choppy. The spark is blue and looks strong tho. When I remove a plug from either one of the coils (Bosch 2x2) the car dies. I tested that because I was thinking it might just ran on one coil.

The tachometer does not work even with the relay in place.

I did some more testing today (I ordered Butchka's board and replaced BTI's - LC reasons..) and noticed:

- The car still will start and run really choppy
- Revving up just kills it
- Tacho works fine now.

I started to probe again and then I finally found something: ALL pins on the Bosch 2x2 module are shorted out - 0 Ohms (tested directly at the module). That would mean all cylinders are firing at the same time, right?
 
I did some more testing today (I ordered Butchka's board and replaced BTI's - LC reasons..) and noticed:

- The car still will start and run really choppy
- Revving up just kills it
- Tacho works fine now.

I started to probe again and then I finally found something: ALL pins on the Bosch 2x2 module are shorted out - 0 Ohms (tested directly at the module). That would mean all cylinders are firing at the same time, right?


/offtopic

What are 'LC' reasons?
 
Uhm...

Yesterday I got it to start and run but really weak and choppy. The spark is blue and looks strong tho. When I remove a plug from either one of the coils (Bosch 2x2) the car dies. I tested that because I was thinking it might just ran on one coil.

The tachometer does not work even with the relay in place.

Why posting this here and not contacting Blabla, Martijn, BTI?
He wil help you right away that's for sure.
 
So much conflicting information here
I have 6 connections on my old coil

Do I just move all these spliced together onto the 85/86 terminals of a gutted relay?
Diagrams state to leave old ignition module plugged in which I've done.
I assume I need switched 12v from the blue wire from old coil so if I splice the power into this and plug both into relay will this be correct?
If not where are you all getting switched 12v from?
 
Can someone please answer my questions as there's so much conflicting info here
Where do I get switched 12v from?
The blue wire from old coil or from the 12v wire from old ignitors connector plug?
 
Anybody having issues with the Bosch Motorsport coil? My first lasted a week and now I've just had my second in a row fail on me after a month and I'm starting to wonder if there's another root cause here. Both times it was during a huge rainstorm but all the connectors are full of dielectric grease and have rubber boots.
I've tried searching for causes of repeat coil failures but Google isn't finding me much that seems relevant. I'm going to have to keep track of which side of the coil is going bad to see if there's a pattern.

I've mounted it above the valvecover on a bracket I made to bolt to the old distributor mounting holes and hold my wideband plug, ignition module/amplifier, and coil. I've seen others mount it above the valvecover via the valvecover bolts so maybe my bracket has too much vibration?

bracket: https://imgur.com/a/LxFaqUm

EDIT: Problem vanished overnight. Hooked up oscilloscope and found perfect signals so I took it all off and found a bunch of water mixed with the dielectric grease. Revised bracket to correct positioning of the ignition amplifier, hopefully for good this time:https://imgur.com/a/9rD65re
 
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I'm currently stuck with no grounding from the ignition modules (I'm using two standard modules as I bought a new one to test previously and found both to be working fine.) I've added my voltage readings below with ignition on. Has anyone else taken these voltages so I could compare?

5V - 5.3v
VR - 2.4v
1-4 - 7.7v to 8.2v back and forth
2-3 - 6.9v to 7.4v back and forth
Spark - 0.33v
 
I've never installed one of these, but since no one else has replied, I'll take a guess.

Your 7volt / 8volt whatever measurements are way too high. I think those should be logic level outputs of 5volts, or less on average. You could unplug your WS-to-ignitor cables and re-measure, or check that the ground on your ignitor modules are good. I'm wondering if the ignitor ground isn't connected, but ignitor +12v is connected, and that the +12v is raising the WS output voltages.
 
I'm currently stuck with no grounding from the ignition modules (I'm using two standard modules as I bought a new one to test previously and found both to be working fine.) I've added my voltage readings below with ignition on. Has anyone else taken these voltages so I could compare?

5V - 5.3v
VR - 2.4v
1-4 - 7.7v to 8.2v back and forth
2-3 - 6.9v to 7.4v back and forth
Spark - 0.33v

The 1-4 and 2-3 output voltages should never be above ~2.5V. So yes, it appears something has been wired incorrectly.

Can you explain what you mean by "I'm currently stuck with no grounding from the ignition modules" please?

If you have time, take a clear photo of your EZK with the board wired in, and post it here.
 
The 1-4 and 2-3 output voltages should never be above ~2.5V. So yes, it appears something has been wired incorrectly.

Can you explain what you mean by "I'm currently stuck with no grounding from the ignition modules" please?

If you have time, take a clear photo of your EZK with the board wired in, and post it here.

Ended up being a failing EZK, it had been struggling on and off for a while with ignition problems. Unfortunately, one of the pads on the wasted spark board came loose on removal from the old EZK so I've ordered another!
 
Hey guys I'm not getting any spark. Anyone else had this problem?
Keep following the issue back. You could have a bad amplifier, coils, or wiring issue. I used an oscilloscope when I was diagnosing my install but a simple test light gets you 80% of the way there.
 
Keep following the issue back. You could have a bad amplifier, coils, or wiring issue. I used an oscilloscope when I was diagnosing my install but a simple test light gets you 80% of the way there.

I don't have one of those unfortunately.
Tried multiple coils and amplifier.
Getting 12v at injectors, coil, power stage
 
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