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245 + Ford 5.0 (Budget Build)

Rfoltz53

Member
Joined
Feb 5, 2012
Location
Lancaster, PA
Current Pic
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Current Upgrade/Parts List
Engine/Drivetrain
93 Ford Mustang 5.0 HO engine
87 World Class t5 trans
Stock 93 mustang engine management
Mustang one piece drive shaft
Yoshifab drive shaft adapter
Volvo Dana 1030 rear with 3.73
Griffin dual core radiator
14 inch electric fan mounted on the front as a pusher
160 degree thermostat
Ford racing t-stat housing
Custom shifter
Custom Motor mount plates and trans mount welded to cross member
2.5 dual into 3inch single exhaust with dual chamber muffler
Pascesetter headers
Off the shelf radiator hoses
6pk1155 Drive belt, only accessory's are alternator and water pump
Saab 9-3 se shift boot
Custom throttle bracket made to work with the ford cable at throttle body then cut and connected to Volvo cable after firewall.

Suspension/breaks
bilstein shocks front and rear
Polly rear torque rods
Hawk HP+ break pads up front
Hayashi racing 505 3 peice wheels 15x7.5


Future plans
Upgrade suspension (coilovers)
g80 rear diff and swap over my 3.23 rear or stick with the 3.73?
Adjustable panhard bar
Boost!

This is my first build thread here on turbobricks, I know its all been done before but i thought i might be able to help some other people who are thinking about doing this build. But first some background. This is my third 240 and it was my daily driver for about a year and a half before the build. I also have a 244 that i race in lemons.
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Here is a pic from the day i bought it, i work (as a bmw/mini tech) that gets alot of older volvo work still so this was a past customers car. It has 287k and i picked it up for $500.
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I drove it for a while like that then started to put a little work into it and swapped over a set of turbo wheels that usually get used on my track car.
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Next thing was to get rid of the automatic and swap in a m46 and some 25mm bars.
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Here is how the car sat just before the swap

I started to get the itch for more power and I have a lot of friends who are ford guys and have seen the potential of the 5.0 and 4.6 ford engines. I talked about doing the swap for a while then a friend of mine came across a donor car and i decided to just go for it.
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The donor car was a 93 mustang lx. It was in a heavy front end crash but the engine was fine and the best part is the car only had 62k miles! I bought the car for $800
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We pulled the engine which was more of a task then normal since the frame was almost touching the engine.
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The donor car was a automatic so i found a t5 and all the parts to go with locally for $300
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With the donor car now out of my shop i got the 245 in and pulled the engine and trans and cleaned out the 300k worth of dirt and grease.
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We used the pics and drawings of that Volvos that run 5.0 swap mount adapters and made a set of our own. The first time we had a issue with the way we made the passenger side mount so we had to cut and flip it and weld it back together. The reason we had this problem was just a error when we made out drawing in cad we basically drew it backwards. Not a big deal and then just drill a new hole.
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We then dropped the engine in and it fit pretty well right off the bat. We dropped it in without the trans mounted because i had forgot to get a pilot bearing and we were getting impatient haha. (in the pic is my friend logan who has been helping alot with the build and is the man behind most of the custom parts.
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Here is the first pic of the engine bolted into the car
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I bought a set of cheapy pacesetter headers since the manifolds that were on the engine were rusty and in poor shape.
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The headers had a little issue on both sides, on the driver side it was touching the steering shaft and had to be hit it a little to have some space. And on the passenger side it was nearly on the body of the car so ground down the cast around the flange and hit the body inward to make space.
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Next i bolted in the new flywheel and clutch parts along with the bellhousing.
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Next mounted up the t5 trans.
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As far as the trans mount we just used the stock crossmember and welded in a mount for the stock t5 mount.
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Since my drive shaft was from a automatic mustang it had the big counter weight on the end that had to be cut off to fit in the tunnel of the 240
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I bought the yoshifab drive shaft adapter that made it possible to bolt the ford driveshaft to the volvo rear with no other modifications!
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Next thing i went after was the wiring witch is not as bad as it sounds. Basically you use the ford harness and ecu and run about 2 wires to the ecu and another 2-3 to the connector near the dlc. The charging and starting system has a few wires that are wired into the grey connector on the firewall and then there is just a few more wires for the tach and temp sender. Im using the ford fuel pump relays to send power through the volvo fuse block back to the stocks pumps.
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And here is a pic of the engine fully wired, you will notice that the battery is still in the original location and the starter solenoid is mounted right behind the batter along with the coil.
The serp belt setup is pretty simple because im not running power steering or ac so its just water pump and alternator. I need to get a couple pics of the cooling system still but im using a diesel 240 rad and a 14inc electric fan mounted on the front side of the rad. The heater hoses were a little bit of a pain but overall not that bad.
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So after four weeks since the day we brought the mustang in to pull the engine we were ready for our first drive in the car, long story short we pulled out and found out that the trans was now stuck in first gear. We took the trans back out and found the one shift for to be work very badly. I will have anther shift for tomorrow and hopefully that fixes the problem so i can get it over to the exhaust shop to have the exhaust built.

So up to this point im sure i left out alot of information so feel free to ask. If you count back in the parts i got from the donor car i have spent $1400 on this swap and will need to still get exhaust done. I hope you guys enjoy the read and hopefully i have a driving video sometime this week!
 
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It's so easy you can do it in your sleep. That's why it makes no sense hot rodding Volvo redblocks if the goal is reliability, gas mileage, power or anything else other than keeping it all Volvo.
 
Yep. Happens when 2nd is grabbed with the stock shifter. Aftermarket units have stop bolts that don't allow the shifter to be pulled back far enough to bend the fork.

Ok thanks for the input guys, The person i bought the trans from is going to give me another t5 he has but it is a from a 4 cylinder fox body so im justing going to swap over the top cover and forks.
 
Yep, t5's don't have internal stops like the newer transmissions. Banging gears with a stock shifter, or external stops that aren't set up correctly can/will do this.

That's the only good thing about them, even WC t5's are literally everywhere.
 
It's so easy you can do it in your sleep. That's why it makes no sense hot rodding Volvo redblocks if the goal is reliability, gas mileage, power or anything else other than keeping it all Volvo.

I dunno, I think it depends on your goals and since when did modifying a volvo need to make sense? :-P
 
You forgot to take the 5 min to paint the engine bay flat black!

Its funny how easily that V8 drops in, good work.
 
I picked up the second t5 from the craigslist seller yesterday and brought it home to steal the shift forks/top cover out of. When i pulled the top cover off i found that the link to the one shift for was about to break in half. I stole the the one good shift fork and moved it over to my other top cover and re assembled my first t5. After i got that all back together it still will not go into first. Im thinking its time to just break down and buy a known good/rebuilt t5. :-(
 
I picked up the second t5 from the craigslist seller yesterday and brought it home to steal the shift forks/top cover out of. When i pulled the top cover off i found that the link to the one shift for was about to break in half. I stole the the one good shift fork and moved it over to my other top cover and re assembled my first t5. After i got that all back together it still will not go into first. Im thinking its time to just break down and buy a known good/rebuilt t5. :-(

I "fixed" a broken t5 off kijiji, only to have it break again the very same way a few weeks later. Decided I wanted to get at least one month of driving out of my car this year, so went to a junkyard for a quick fix and found one. In a day I had it swapped in, by myself in a driveway, only to find that the junkyard t5 had almost no sychros for 3rd and 4th. I gambled and lost. Still got to drive my car though, just double clutching my overly strong clutch.

So yeah I'm where you're at in thinking, why the hell did I buy two broken t5s... :rofl: I'm going to get one fixed though, I don't think Ill buy a new one just yet.
 
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