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Whiteblock in a 240 - All you need to know

AndrewEG said:
How much of a gap you guys got going between the highest portion of the back of the head and the firewall?

I'd say there's about an inch of clearance between the top of cam sensor and the firewall.

AndrewEG said:
At the back of the head, I presume you guys replaced the brass hose barb fitting(that led to the heater) with an elbow fitting? Is it a close fit between the sloping firewall and fitting?

No, the stock fitting is still there, it's just got a brass 90 attached with a piece of heater hose. The slope of the firewall makes this possible.

AndrewEG said:
Also, have you angled the engine a few degrees rearward help get the transmission in?

No, due to the size of the sump and the horizontal distance between the firewall and crossmember, angling the engine rearward actually makes it impossible to drop in. You have to leave the transmission and bellhousing off the engine and and angle it forwards to wedge it in. You can either leave the engine partially suspended with the hoist while you attach the tranny or you can do what I did and rest the sump on an appropriately sized block of wood.

AndrewEG said:
Sorry for all these questions, just planning it so it's a turn key conversion that can be down in a weekend.

This was also my plan, but that turned out to be not the case. The best advice I can give you is to plan for at least two weeks of vehicle downtime to complete the swap. Trying to plan out every little detail before the fact is essentially impossible, especially considering it's your first time doing it.
 
No, due to the size of the sump and the horizontal distance between the firewall and crossmember, angling the engine rearward actually makes it impossible to drop in. You have to leave the transmission and bellhousing off the engine and and angle it forwards to wedge it in. You can either leave the engine partially suspended with the hoist while you attach the tranny or you can do what I did and rest the sump on an appropriately sized block of wood.

You reckon it might be worth while cutting the front section the pan that hangs down off the sump, so it's angled about 50 degrees from the horizontal?
 
You reckon it might be worth while cutting the front section the pan that hangs down off the sump, so it's angled about 50 degrees from the horizontal?

I don't really follow. Do you mean you want to make the sump smaller? If you want to mount the engine straight up and down then you'll have to modify the sump anyway, so making it a bit smaller to drop in with the tranny attached is probably a good idea.
 
I don't really follow. Do you mean you want to make the sump smaller? If you want to mount the engine straight up and down then you'll have to modify the sump anyway, so making it a bit smaller to drop in with the tranny attached is probably a good idea.

Yeah, I have to mount it straight up and down as I need as much space as i can get on the exhaust side of the bay. I won't bother with a 960 sump so I'll modify the existing sump to suit. Having the steering column and the damn brake booster on the exhaust side will turn the job into a major PITA when routing the downpipe :rant: Should be getting some packages from the laser cutters this week then i'll get the S.S. manifold started:oogle:
 
Here's a nugget for all interested parties:

Today I picked up a pilot bearing that will work with a T5 tranny on a whiteblock. The bearing requires a 17mm ID for the T5 input shaft, 35mm OD and 10mm width to fit in the whiteblock crank. A local industrial supply shop deals in NTN brand stuff and they happened to have the exact size I needed for $17 or so.

The bearing is NTN part number 6003LLBC3/1K, here's the white paper for it:

http://www.ntnamerica.com/datasheet...&CL_PARTNO=6003LLBC3/1K&BEARINGCATEGORY=RBSRD

It was a very snug fit in the crank just as it should be and the stock retainer circlip fit perfectly.





slight add-on ... the '99 b6284t requires a 32mm outside diameter pilot bearing ...

... for those of you with t5 (or other) transmissions requiring a 15mm pilot bearing, such as one from an lt1 camaro, an rx-7, or a 2.3l ford (others too i'm sure), and a late model crank from a t5 or a t6 motor.

the 32mm outer/15mm inner is common enough as well.
 
Hello this is a brilliant write up and have had to put alot of time and effort into this the question i have is i have a rhd volvo 240 glt and wanting to do the same conversion the only thing i am worried about is the servos and master cylinder will there be clearence for these also has any one fitted the t5 engine in a rhd 240.
thankyou pete
 
I don't know of anyone who has done the conversion to a RHD vehicle. You shouldn't have any issues with the brake booster. Here are a few engine bay shots of my old car, they should give you an idea of the clearance that is available:

http://picasaweb.google.com/kbuchka/1979Volvo242#5157830073282742866
http://picasaweb.google.com/kbuchka/1979Volvo242#5164489657306021138

I think the biggest issue will be fitting the down pipe if you are using a stock manifold. It places the turbo very far back in the engine bay.

http://picasaweb.google.com/kbuchka/1979Volvo242#5164489665895955746

It's also worth noting that my car had a manual steering rack, which allowed a much deeper and further set back mounting position. A power steering rack requires you to move the engine up and out, which would give you more clearance for the down pipe and steering column.

Also, I'm working on an updated version of this guide, as most of the info in the OP is very dated.
 
Hello thankyou very much for your reply i think my best bet would be to have a exhaust manifold custom made to eliminate the problem with clearence and make a bracket to support the weight of the turbo.
thankyou pete
 
Bump.

Anyone making oil pans, adapt plates???

I figure it's just a matter of time before SDturbo or Nathaninwa start producing modified 960 pans, transmission adapter plates for BW T5's and motor mounts.

Dayummm, it'd be rad to harness the fury of a T5 engine in a 240.
 
Bump.

Anyone making oil pans, adapt plates???

Hello!
Theses guys have. A company in Sweden. New 960 oilpans, shortned... But to a price that is too much! 4500,- NOK, with oilstick 5500,-NOK....whitch is about $1000,-
I'll better off welding ityourself..... Or getting someone over there to weld it for you....
Good luck!
 
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