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Third Motor Mount... Still RF mount?

EivlEvo

Active member
Joined
Sep 11, 2012
Squad... things are progressing nicely with this Volvo (245 +T) as I keep adding more power though, I see my motor mounts distressing.

1. I'm going to swap my RSI (or whatever) mounts over but
2. Is the right fender wall and front exhaust runner still considered the "optimum" spot?
3. Am I intending to prevent the engine "rolling" or moving fore/aft?

Any further wisdom of note or is it still just weld and repurpose some old suspension crap?
 
serch newb

https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=203227

79520260.lhz6q0Sy.jpg
 
I used a ratchet strap, it's easy and it seems to work just fine.

Yo are stopping the motor from rotating in reaction to the twist it's putting into the driveshaft. This will force the top of the motor to move toward the right. Thus a ratchet strap needs to run from the left side strut are over to the head (the further up - away from the crank/driveshaft/driveline center as reasonably possible for best leverage.

A welded up old suspension arm would certainly look more baller.
 
I used a rear suspension upper arm tied to each valve cover in the rallycar.
Prior to installing them a set of V-6 engine mounts lasted one practice session.
Never needed to replace engine mounts since. Even after multiple rolls.
 
That is exactly what I used. Hooked into the left side strut tower where there are some gaps between it and the inner fender, over to the front engine lift loop.

I broke motor mounts easily before, basically hit boost in first gear and one or both would be broken. OEM diesel mounts, broken, some poly mounts that made the car buzz and rattle - broken. Then, for years, a plain aftermarket diesel mount on one side, some random Dodge pickup mount on the other, and a $5 ratchet strap and not a single issue. This is with about 350 whp and a T5 Mustang trans with a high enough 1st gear to get into boost in 1st.
 
Very little effect on the car as a whole, just no more broken motor mounts.

I 'pretensioned' the ratchet strap a bit, so it did firm the drivetrain slop up some, less rotational wiggle in it between power on and power off (decel).
 
Different engine; same principle -- rear upper suspension arm repurposed into 3rd motor mount/torque arm. Connects driver's side head to frame rail.

 
My OG question was should I still run this on the right side. But it seems that a lot of people run them on the intake side. The intake side would need the ratchet strap because it's holding it back. The exhaust side would need to be solid or have some sort of compression system... Odd.
 
I don't know whose car that is with the double clevis deal, but I'd like to hear how vibratey that is. My guess would be a lot.
 
Those are M8X1.25 fasteners.
I'd be sure to use a bushing between the engine and car. Bzzzzz

That solution looks to be using some puny clevis pins.

PUny clevis pins in shear, They aren't going anywhere. But Buzzzz for sure. That's why I am staying away from the Jag/Yoshi mounts, I couldn't stand the NVH transmission in the couple cars that I rode in with them.

Stock mounts and ratchet strap ftw
 
I found all sorts of interior trim that I didn't know was loose when I had the poly engine mounts.

Never got around to fixing any of that because they ripped apart so quickly.

No vibration added by the ratchet strap at all.
 
I might mess around with making something like that clevis, but with a strap of some sort. Basically just like a limiting strap for suspension. I like the idea of the ratchet strap not introducing any extra vibes, but I just can't reconcile having a ratchet strap in my engine bay.
 
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