• Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
    You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here

    Thank you for being a part of our community!

tfrasca's 142 Turbo Project

Sell the other two.
You will regret if you sell the 142.
Volvo 140 series, and 164, is underrated fully.
Ask me whow I know (still two 140 in Stock; -) )
Max you will get is under 5 grand.
First you have to find your 1 cell twin.

I like my 144 with power steering and my 142 with powersteering too. Even knowing they are worth nothing. My Amazon is worth more than both together. And the Amazon isn't running.

Have fun, Kay
 
I disagree with everyone here, sell it if you’re not into it. If stuff is sorted the right price won’t deter people. Well over 5k ... pffft for sure


145 in Bevercountry needs a lot still that’s why it ain’t selling
 
There there's no chance I'd ever sell it for under 5 grand, unless I put a stock motor and transmission back in.

I'm still undecided, but a lot of that decision will depend on what happens with that SAAB. I predict that I'll keep the 142, put the Borg Warner turbo on it, and have a bunch of fun with it.
 
Not selling. Quite the opposite.

So, we bought a "starter home" (dilapidated pile of garbage) with no garage, so I've been frantically finishing some big projects on the 142 before I move.

One of the very first things I did on the car was install poly rear trailing arm bushings. For the last year or so, I've regretted that, and I suspected the bound up rear axle was limiting traction. The car was basically a drift car. So, the other weekend, I pulled all those poly bushings out and replaced them with OEM rubber ones. I also did the torque rods and panhard while I was at it. I noticed one of the trailing arms was starting to look a little bendy, so I reinforced them.

QHnr3pX.jpg


Having all new rubber bushings on the back seemed to help traction quite a bit. The axle definitely moves around more, so it tracks better on rough roads too. Also, basically all my drive line vibrations went away. Psyched on that.

While I was eliminating NVH, I figured I should try the huge damped yoke (used with Ford 4 cylinders) I bought and forgot to return many months ago. There was no chance of it fitting under my car as-is, so I cut another big hole. Here it is, next to the V6 ford and the normal 1310 yoke I'd been using.

U45iKzI.jpg


I used a 1310x1330 u-joint to get it on my drive shaft.

mzHJMdr.jpg


4b4v2uJ.jpg


Made the most ridiculous tunnel thing I could think of. This now has Noico sound damping material on it, and I think I'll try gluing some Oxite carpet onto it.

qxq9Mfg.jpg


This damper cut down on the classic T5 decel chatter substantially. My car has always been really bad, and now I'd say it's downright acceptable.
 
Borg Warner S252 sx-e install

I also bit the bullet and installed the turbo I bought last summer. It's a bigger turbo than I was planning on getting, but I got a smaller turbine housing in hopes to get some spool back. I'm using a Tial MVS for boost control.

Due to space constraints and the fact that I'm using the stock manifold, this is what I did for the wastegate.

WaUehCU.jpg


I don't know what I was thinking with that setup, but it didn't clear the inner fender at all. So I cut it all apart and came up with this:

BRvCn7i.jpg


I'm hoping that the re-entry into the downpipe works ok, since it's kind of merging with the downward 90 degree bend. There's also a pretty big hole in the downpipe:

I6j339S.jpg


I had Noah mill my manifold flat and hog it out to T3 size on his mill:

R6GRNnH.jpg


I then bent some stainless lines for the oil feed and wastegate, and ended up with this:

TBllyjh.jpg


lpwEuN1.jpg


I don't have much time on the turbo yet, but I'm pretty pleased so far. It obviously doesn't spool like a 19t, but it's really not bad. I'm getting positive boost by 2000 rpm, and 20 psi by 3500. My 4.30:1 rear end probably helps with that. LH seems to want to over fuel, so I haven't gotten a bunch of clean 20 psi pulls. Usually by 20 psi and about 4500 rpm, it goes super richs and bogs. I suspect it's also pulling timing. Once I get the tuning sorted, I think this car is going to be a riot.
 
Really nice looking update there Tyler! I was wondering how that bigger balancer would do. I might play with a few ideas on mine as well, seeing that it did make a difference.
 
I'm hoping that the re-entry into the downpipe works ok, since it's kind of merging with the downward 90 degree bend. There's also a pretty big hole in the downpipe

That should work just fine. Looks really good in terms of flow re-entry into the downpipe. The wastegate flow shouldn't interfere with the turbine outflow very much at all.

Also great that you included a diverging nozzle at the turbine outlet - will help the turbine make more shaft power and helps keep your exhaust backpressure down.

All your recent progress looks good man!
 
Really nice looking update there Tyler! I was wondering how that bigger balancer would do. I might play with a few ideas on mine as well, seeing that it did make a difference.

Yeah, I'd say it was a worthwhile effort. My trans is definitely not silent now, but it's a lot better. It seemed to smooth everything out, like a slightly heavier flywheel, but different.

That should work just fine. Looks really good in terms of flow re-entry into the downpipe. The wastegate flow shouldn't interfere with the turbine outflow very much at all.

Also great that you included a diverging nozzle at the turbine outlet - will help the turbine make more shaft power and helps keep your exhaust backpressure down.

All your recent progress looks good man!

Thanks! I haven't been able to really dial in the boost control yet, but I am wondering how low I'll be able to set it with this arrangement. It seems like it could creep a bit, since the wastegate isn't given priority. But like you said, it should be better for the turbine, and I'm going to want to run 20+ psi anyway.

I think my next big project will have to be tuning related. Either go to MS, or at least try one of your wasted spark boards with LH for now. I get this high boost, high rpm over rich situation, and it bogs down or sputters. I was thinking it was just over fueling, but it just occured to me that it could be spark blowout, which could read rich on my wideband?
 
It's so much better in terms of fitting turbo stuff. Wonder whether the engine slant was built in for pedestrian safety.
 
Also great that you included a diverging nozzle at the turbine outlet - will help the turbine make more shaft power and helps keep your exhaust backpressure down.

can you 'splain? I'm interested and I keep squinting at the pictures and can't spot what you're referring to.
 
It's so much better in terms of fitting turbo stuff. Wonder whether the engine slant was built in for pedestrian safety.

Reading through old Volvo literature recently I came across the explanation... engine was slanted to make room for K-jet bits on the intake side and the related intake manifold design(s) required to meet emissions.

can you 'splain? I'm interested and I keep squinting at the pictures and can't spot what you're referring to.

Sorry for the jargon. By diverging nozzle I'm just referring to the tapered tube at the turbine housing outlet, going up to his full downpipe diameter.

Radial turbines generate shaft power via momentum transfer from the exhaust gas, but expansion ratio (inlet pressure/outlet pressure) plays an important part. By allowing the outlet flow to expand in a diverging nozzle you can reduce the expansion ratio needed to produce the required amount of shaft power at a given mass flow rate. Lower post-turbine pressure then results in lower pre-turbine exhaust backpressure. Helps improve engine VE reducing restriction, allows for more timing advance before the knock threshold, gets your exhaust manifold pressure down closer to intake manifold pressure; all good stuff.
 
Sorry for the jargon. By diverging nozzle I'm just referring to the tapered tube at the turbine housing outlet, going up to his full downpipe diameter.

Radial turbines generate shaft power via momentum transfer from the exhaust gas, but expansion ratio (inlet pressure/outlet pressure) plays an important part. By allowing the outlet flow to expand in a diverging nozzle you can reduce the expansion ratio needed to produce the required amount of shaft power at a given mass flow rate. Lower post-turbine pressure then results in lower pre-turbine exhaust backpressure. Helps improve engine VE reducing restriction, allows for more timing advance before the knock threshold, gets your exhaust manifold pressure down closer to intake manifold pressure; all good stuff.

Uh.. yeah! I meant to put all that in my original post. Must have slipped my mind.

Seriously though, thanks for sharing your turbo knowledge with us.
 
Uh.. yeah! I meant to put all that in my original post. Must have slipped my mind.

Seriously though, thanks for sharing your turbo knowledge with us.

No worries. I thought it was pretty interesting when I learned about the downpipe's potential affect on performance. Common knowledge is "the best turbo exhaust is no exhaust," which is generally true in that minimizing post-turbine restriction is beneficial. But of course there are always subtle details that can help or hurt.
 
Looks great!



I'd imagine it's to give room for longer runner intake manifolds and brake booster / strut tower clearance. The exhaust side (except for the turbos) is fairly compact.

Reading through old Volvo literature recently I came across the explanation... engine was slanted to make room for K-jet bits on the intake side and the related intake manifold design(s) required to meet emissions.


THANKS FOR NOT</a>HING, BOSCH.

Sorry for the jargon. By diverging nozzle I'm just referring to the tapered tube at the turbine housing outlet, going up to his full downpipe diameter.

Radial turbines generate shaft power via momentum transfer from the exhaust gas, but expansion ratio (inlet pressure/outlet pressure) plays an important part. By allowing the outlet flow to expand in a diverging nozzle you can reduce the expansion ratio needed to produce the required amount of shaft power at a given mass flow rate. Lower post-turbine pressure then results in lower pre-turbine exhaust backpressure. Helps improve engine VE reducing restriction, allows for more timing advance before the knock threshold, gets your exhaust manifold pressure down closer to intake manifold pressure; all good stuff.

That's very informative. Thanks for explaining!

No worries. I thought it was pretty interesting when I learned about the downpipe's potential affect on performance. Common knowledge is "the best turbo exhaust is no exhaust," which is generally true in that minimizing post-turbine restriction is beneficial. But of course there are always subtle details that can help or hurt.

Open dump user here. Butt dyno has no regrets. The responsible adult in me feels pretty guilty, however...


On a separate, but related note, I do wonder how that turbo would go with my 16v setup. The T3 housing could be convenient. Not too sure about whether it would become a choke point at high RPM...
 
Last edited:
On a separate, but related note, I do wonder how that turbo would go with my 16v setup. The T3 housing could be convenient. Not too sure about whether it would become a choke point at high RPM...

AGP offers a T3 housings in .63, I think. I was just super scared of lag, so I went with the tiny .48. The .63 T3 housing has a 3" v-band outlet option, too.
 
Back
Top