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Electric Fan Conversion

The coolant temperature sensor on the top passenger side, the only sensor thats on the rad, the same one shown on the picture on page 16
 
ok, so I did this conversion with a relay from a 99ish S60, a coolant temp sensor from a 92ish 740, and an electric fan from a 94? buick century, hooked it up as per what I found in the thread. I do have some electrical knowledge, but the hardest part of this was mounting the fan.
I used the high speed setting on the relay to go to a manual switch for diagnostic purposes or something, works great.
The fan rarely comes on, only when sitting in traffic for a while. Even at 30km/h it doesn't go on.
I swear the car has more power too, it seems to rev faster, and overall feels more energetic.
 
So i did more testing before i remove the efan and install a aisin tropical clutch fan

Replaced the fan switch in the rad for a newer one, doesnt seem to trigger still but my relay works since when i tested them i kept putting them on 12v and wouldn't trigger since it needs grounding instead haha

But according to the picture for low speed is plugged on the blue/black wire from the fan switch, but read it needs to be on the ground from the fan switch

As soon i put it on the ground it turns on right away and doesnt turn off and once plugged on the fan switch doesnt turn on even hot
 
So i did more testing before i remove the efan and install a aisin tropical clutch fan

Replaced the fan switch in the rad for a newer one, doesnt seem to trigger still but my relay works since when i tested them i kept putting them on 12v and wouldn't trigger since it needs grounding instead haha

But according to the picture for low speed is plugged on the blue/black wire from the fan switch, but read it needs to be on the ground from the fan switch

As soon i put it on the ground it turns on right away and doesnt turn off and once plugged on the fan switch doesnt turn on even hot

Make your own thread.
 
Well all I did was spend 70$ for an electric v6spec and wired it in place of the stock auxillary cooling fan removed my ac system my powersteering. And stock airplane prop used one kevlar belt for w.p alt.cs and haven't overheated since even in 80 degree ruch hour traffic
 
I have some thoughts about fan conversions...years ago before I heard of turbobricks I installed a Flex A Lite 2800 cfm fan from Jeg's, intended for 5.0 Mustangs, thinking that it would have more than enough umph. This was probably around 1996 or so...forget the brand of fan controller but it can handle at least 15 amps (I think), have a sensor in the radiator fins, and also a wire tapped into the a/c wire that runs to the low pressure switch on the receiver/drier. So fan comes on with a/c, also comes on with engine temp and has adjustable setting. Still works after all this time. It seems that my a/c has never been quite as strong and more likely to detonate under high boost on hot days - also temp creeps up on hot days at fast highway speeds, but not seriously. This is already an 18 amp fan. Actually considering switching back to a good (new) clutch and fan plus shroud. The (at least the factory intercooled 84.5 and 85) had an alternator downsized from 70 amps to 55, though I have the 70. Someone else mentioned the pusher fan in front of everything- according to the Volvo FSM's, this doesn't come on with the a/c- it's more of an emergency fan, and doesn't come on until the temp is approaching the red. I forget the temperature. Anyone know of testing done showing how much hp an engine (or even better, the 240 fan) driven fan can use? I have to wonder if it isn't that much...18 amp fan even if 100% efficient is 216 watts...sorry if this is off topic- not sure if whether to do the conversion belongs in a thread about how to do the conversion
 
Just installed mine.

960 fan with 2 speed relay. Wired the high speed to a switch and the low to the Saab T with a 87/92 sender in the lower radiator hose. Works great.
 
Similar setup to onsel's, but reversed. Hooked up low speed to switch, and high to a temp sender in the radiator. Fan blows strong, and even stronger when left to the "emergency" ovar-heat mode. So far, it's lightyears ahead of the old fan in comparison.
 
Just installed mine.

960 fan with 2 speed relay. Wired the high speed to a switch and the low to the Saab T with a 87/92 sender in the lower radiator hose. Works great.
I'm worried that the fan won't kick on early enough in your setup with the 92/87C switch in the lower radiator hose. Especially in a high ambient temp day with a turbo car running anywhere near detonation threshold. I will likely do something similar but see how that switch in the upper hose works(because I think that's the only easily available switch for the Saab T, not because I want it!).

On my blue car, I run an 82/77C sender in the radiator and with the 87C thermostat in the engine. With that setup, I can't complain AT ALL. My temperature gauge barely goes up before the fan kicks on and it keeps things nice and consistent. That car is so close to the detonation threshold that it does detonate, which is part of the reason for why I'm not driving it regularly. When the temperature goes up, it makes a noticeable difference. I wouldn't even be able to drive the car if it got any hotter and the temps weren't as controlled.

A stock b21/b230 won't care nearly as much, but if you start pushing the envelope, you will want to better control your temps!
 
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