• Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
    You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here

    Thank you for being a part of our community!

Andrew's 122 turbo project

Any updates? I think I may have found a radiator solution for you also.
afc-80107n_w-jpg.138297


Volkswagen sirocco, its a 2 row, dual pass, 12x20 radiator that by calculations should be enough for a pretty well built SBC, so it should work. As far as fitment its wider than stock, but not as tall and fits in between the \_/ of the nose about 2" in front of the stock core support. I plan to pick one up next week and this weekend I'll make up a 15"T x 36"W panel out of CarbonKevlar and see about making that into a core support when I get the radiator.

I'll get it posted to my build asap.
 
I ended up getting a Griffin radiator from Summit. It's the same one alfavsvolvo used in his Lemons 122. I haven't gotten around to trying it. I need to figure out what to do about an e-fan but I'm gonna try a 940 one this weekend and I think it will be all good.

That one you posted wouldn't be especially great for me since the upper neck is on the passenger side. I need it to be on the other side.
 
I think I finally came up with a solution to my alternator issue. I picked up a bracket for a SBC and cut it in half.

dIPIbrS.jpg


Moved the flange back where it needed to be and used a B21 style tensioner to move it up on the block some. That worked especially well since now it's somewhat adjustable. Plus it put it a little further away from the idler arm which was the whole point of the bracket anyway.

DYd0w3s.jpg


Should work okay. A 925mm belt is just a hair too long so I'm going to try a 922mm.

W01i6qV.jpg
 
After Mountain Meet I was pretty motivated to work on my car. A shorter alternator belt did the trick and it should work nicely. Got my B21 intake back from Nathan. Today I started cutting to make room for the radiator and e-fan. I went ahead and cut more than I needed so I don't have to mess with it when intercooler piping comes. I'm not sure yet what I'll do to support the hood latch. It relies on the front hood seal piece to keep it braced when you shut the hood. Without it, it there's enough flex to keep the hood from latching. Thought about hood pins though it's not really what I want to do. I might be able to make something ugly that's functional. I don't see any way to do it gracefully.

7Hzg75F.jpg


k8cCiup.jpg


cKYWmZe.jpg
 
Dear lord please no hood pins! Looks like it's coming along nicely. Really like how the engine/turbo/intake looks in there symmetry wise. It would take some tig action but getting the oil cap straight up would be sweet.
 
Although I appreciate that cwdodson88 liked what I did enough to suggest it to you I think our issues are like apples and oranges. Do you have enough room to run 1/8" X 3/4" braces from the two latch bolts nearest the motor down at an angle to behind the center bar on the grill surround? Can you move the rad back a bit so there's more room for the cooler?
The Sirocco rad is the same one I used but I had to move the inlet/outlet to the drivers side.
 
I don't have the e-fan in yet but I think the radiator is about as far back as it can go. I'm afraid to weld any kind of support into the front area before getting an intercooler installed because I'm already running out of space there.
 
evolvo67 said:
Although I appreciate that cwdodson88 liked what I did enough to suggest it to you I think our issues are like apples and oranges. Do you have enough room to run 1/8" X 3/4" braces from the two latch bolts nearest the motor down at an angle to behind the center bar on the grill surround?
Click to expand...

I was more thinking that taking your idea to a little less extreme and making it a bolt in panel that with a few precise bends would resolve the flex issue with the stock latch. Since he's looking at needing to have the radiator in front of the core support for belt clearance, then 1.5-2 inches for an efan, and another 3" for the IC thickness... thats 7-ish" out front of the original core support.... Its already going to be a B!*CH to get the hood release cable in there with that... Not exactly sure about running support rods down and forward (i did that for a temp fix with mine and its ok, but not as roomy as I thought). Up and back might be the ticket though, and thats why I popped yours in there, I think that a panel up and over the rad/IC would also reap benefits of directing the airflow better since you wouldnt have it hitting the IC and swirling up, its just gonna hit it and have no were else to go...
 
My first thought was to just somewhat "recreate" the factory piece. I'll probably end up doing that. Don't want to get hung up on something so minor with so much left to do. Fuel cell and e-fan should be here today. I wanted to keep the factory tank but 10 gallon capacity sucks on long trips and after I put a sump on the bottom there wouldn't be anywhere to mount the fuel pump that was lower than the tank.

On another note, I really need a piece of transmission tunnel from a Mustang. I just want the area around the shifter hole that I can weld into my tunnel. That way I can use a Mustang boot.

Sine Qua Non said:
So you are trying to bring the 122 to the 2016 fall meet or the 142?
Click to expand...

Not really sure honestly. I seriously hope this thing is driving in a year. If it's not it's probably because I finished it and then blew it up.
 
Last edited:
Yeah just make a support that hugs the new radiator over the top. What size is the griffin you got? I found a 16x22 that I want to use but I think I'll have to cut and move that cross beam and drop it down between the frame rails. Same problem as you, I want to get everything as far rearward as possible.
 
AndrewNance said:
I might be able to make something ugly that's functional. I don't see any way to do it gracefully.

7Hzg75F.jpg
Click to expand...

You can do this! Maybe scourer wrecking yard for a Y shaped lock latch support and mod it to work so you don't have to start from scratch.

No pins! :cool:
 
Idea - take the nose off the car and weld an angle iron support across the latch sheetmetal from fender to fender so it doesnt flex. Minimal lost space and then you can do whatever for IC and radiator. My vision would be to have it attach at either side under the holes for the front most fender bolts.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top