• Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
    You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here

    Thank you for being a part of our community!

Canadian 1984 244 DL B21A/B6304 project log.

I also hooked up the fuel feed line, using the original carbed line...which is nylon, just like the efi cars. The chassis harness/fusebox also had the fuel pump wiring already in it, so I only need to run 12v to the harness at the wire going to the in-tank pump, and it runs fine. I tested it...and dumped a bunch of gas on the garage floor, lol. Still pretty happy though :).

You had nylon feed line to the carb??
I'm still thinking about replacing the nylon feedline on the B230F with the original carb steel feed line. Which is exactly the same steel line as the return line on the B230F :)
 
HA! I got pissed that it didn't look like I had the pre-existing holes for the braces, so I dug deeper into the foam insulation on the cowl. Found them :).
I feel pretty stupid, but at least they're there.
 
So, I'm concerned about my passenger side engine mount. While searching the forum, I found someone talking about the ones on Yoshifab. I thought they looked kinda odd, but didn't put any effort into finding out what they were, because at that point I was going to re-use the one I had.

Then today, I was at Princess Auto (Canadian Harbour Freight) and found these...

8656498.jpg


http://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/3-in-round-anti-vibration-pads-with-3-8-in-studs/A-p8656506e

$10 CAD for TWO. They are 1/4" too short for the pass side, but a spacer will solve that. The hardness is listed as 70, which feels a lot stiffer than the old stock mount I have now. They're also 3" in diameter, so it's almost a perfect fit. I'll definitely have to make a heat shield, but that's no biggie.

Gonna give it a shot, might as well.

[edit]These are the Yoshifab ones[/edit]
yoshi_volvo_mount.500.jpg
 
Last edited:
So I had the afternoon off, and since it was 1*C (33.8*F), I decided to go to the junkyard. They had recently gotten a 2001 S60, and it turned out to be a T5, score!

Goodbye 13C...
6ZqK6Gz7.jpg


Hello MINTY fresh, angled housing 16T :)
ycHW1Mzs.jpg


They cut out the catalytic converters at the yard, so I got the full dowpipe too. Comes with free bosch wideband sensor, although the wires were cut (oops).
 
Got the 16T mounted, and a wastegate fabbed up. The stock 16T one was pooched (wouldn't react to pressure/vac, diaphragm must be torn), and there's no way I was going to use the 13C one...so I dug into the parts bin and made one up out of a spare DSM 14b can I had. Nice and big, and a decent amount of travel.

This is as close as the pics will get, I know how this place feels about fab work that's less than stellar ;).

nWhLzbHs.jpg


IsuZnTEU.jpg


I had to shorten the rod, so I threaded it for some preload adjustability. It was conveniently already bent, so it doesn't foul the oil return either. I am going to use the stock downpipe, cut and rotated, since it's in really good shape. I'll blend that into the 940 dp I have, and connect it to my stock DL exhaust.
 
Since my back is mostly jello and bone splinters now, I have to work smarter, not harder. Muscling the transmission on to the engine while it's on the ground is not possible now, so I made this cart to hold the box up while the engine is dangling on the hoist. This way, no lifting and minimal muscling :).

IRQIP8m5.jpg
 
The cart worked perfectly :).

Roll the engine and trans together, with the engine on the hoist (after the FP install), install the two starter bolts in the top bolt holes to line it up, and then walk it together. No fuss, no muss, no muscling, and no back pain.

PtUTK50I.jpg


U0ZllHlx.jpg


It's interesting to note that my B21A block has the proper indent and enlarged areas for the LH2.4 CPS, but no holes. Is it just mine, or do all the later (80+) have it?
 
Thanks! Yes, yes you have! Haha.
I hope to have the engine back in the bay this weekend, since it looks like it'll be a stormy one out this way. Might as well stay in the garage and work :).

Indeed... -35c here this morning with the wind chill factor!
 
Correction, my garage heater GOT cranked tonight ;).
We had supper with friends at a local BBQ place, then when we got home I went out to the garage to judge what kind of work I'd need to do in order to get the engine in.

An hour later, it was in the bay :lol:. Nothing is bolted in, and I have a jack holding the tranny up, but I'll address all that tomorrow.

 
So I spent yesterday discovering all the WONDERFUL things that are different between cars with the BW55 and cars with the AW7xs.

-Need crossmember spacers. There was NO way the driveshaft would fit without them. I have pieces of 1/4 aluminum in there now, but will hopefully get some OEM parts soon.

-Shifter linkage. The BW55 is waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay longer than an AW7x one. Luckily for me, I am able to confirm this detail...because all I have is the BW one, lol. Again, I'm hopefully getting an OEM one soon, but my BW55 part is in mint condition, and I have a welder, so it's not super essential.

This is all minor stuff, thankfully. I was smart enough to swap to the longer throttle valve cable and throttle cable when the engine was out, but those other two details just skipped my mind.
 
After 4 hours of useless f**kery, I finally have a shifter linkage that works.
The big issue is that the BW55 has the adjustable end, which smacks the tailhousing of the AW71L and prevented the use of 2 or 1 on the shifter. I've made it work, but I'm not super happy with the way it turned out. BAH!
 
Hz1P4GHc.jpg


Good bye, BW55...you won't be missed :). I find it amusing to see that my original cluster already had the OD Off bulb in place, so adding the factory OD harness was a piece of cake. All I have to do now is connect the final wire (12v to the solenoid), and I'm done.
 
Back
Top