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My Cheap Heap the Ebay way 1986 244dl + t

icdpride

Member
Joined
Dec 5, 2014
Location
Denver Colorado
So for the past year or so I have been working on my 1986 Volov 240dl in sweet sweet beige, it came to me barely running, with the stock n/a b230f engine, a 4spd m46 trans with overdrive, and 86000 original miles. Like any other project with no plan I started to put together all the cheap parts I had and set to work and after that these are the specs that I have for the car

1986 Volvo 244dl
4spd M46w/od
B230f +t 86 block, installed rods from 93 new rings and bearings
Cometic head gasket
530 head with some minor porting work
IPD Turbo cam
2.2lh Block mounted distributor
Megasquirt 2.0 v3.57 with Mapdaddy 4bar
10' ms harness from diyautotune.com
OBX (ebay) turbo manifold flipped and re welded with braces and extermal wastegate
38mm External wastgate
Gt35 (a/r .70) ebay turbo
3" downpipe
3" full mandrel bent 2 pc exhaust with thrush turbo muffler and v-bands
Innvoative ls-2 Wideband o2
Large FMIC
Walbro intank 450lbh
GENSSI Blue Type S Adjustable Fuel pressure Regulator
YoshiFab redblock billet TPS sensor adapter
1000cc injectors with resistor pack
2 12" efans
Dual core ka aluminum radiator

Here is how it started
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Here is what its at now
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Engine Bay
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But with me being bad at tuning and contaminating the oil with a ton of fuel my engine went from making cool cho cho turbo noise to horrible screeching noise (see video bellow)
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So today it got pulled back into the garage for some major work

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Tear down begins
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Front clip off
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Coming out
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Its out
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Now to get it on a stand torn down and figure out what happened
 
Got the motor torn down and there is diffidently shows some damage so it is tie to rebuild after to measuring to find out if there is any damage to the crank or anything.

Top end with the valve cover off
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Head off
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The oil that came out, looks not great and a fair amount of metal
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Crankshaft, looks ok I think, need to measure it to make sure, tips are welcome
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Piston 1 rod and bearing
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Piston 2 rod and bearing
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Piston 3 rod and bearing
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Piston 4 rod and bearing
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Oil pump tube, Here is where the real damage no clue how this happened
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So any input would be awesome I am assuming it was poor assembly by me followed by all the fuel in the oil so I think a rebuild will fix it
 
So I measured the ring gap and I think they are all too tight but they also very greatly from cylinder to cylinder

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Looks like I need to th hone the cylinders and do some math to get these right
 
Since I am waiting on tools and parts I though I would wire tuck everything and refresh the engine bay, fix all the scratches fill the unused holes delete the battery tray and repaint it

Battery tray delete
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Bay refresh
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Finally got some motivation (and time) to work on this heap got the bay all finished and all the wires tucked and hidden and put the engine back in.
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Angle 1
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Angle 2
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And another one
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And the money shot
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Got it started and it seems the engine noise has been fixed Horray!!!! but I need to do something about the tune it is really hard to start and runs pig rich Now I try to learn how to tune horray
 
This car look very fun. Very inspirational for what I want to build.

Thanks, Yeah I am hoping to get it tuned to a point where it is drive-able its been a struggle so far, for some idiotic reason I thought Mega-squirt and tuning would be easy... not so much lol but if cool learning it
 
So I have been working on a tune with some help this is my current tune https://drive.google.com/open?id=1p7iX6l57HmM5MpuWz4XXwHTmtjCxQVa5 it runs and idles just not really drive-able I think I need to pull some fuel for sure but I am still learning feel free to let me know what you thin

I will get back to tuning and data logging soon the whole return fuel line split in 2 places.

But please let me know what would help to post or share I appreciate every bit of input
 
Great news! I got it started and running yesterday

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Bad news is after running for around 15 mins it just shut off, then when I went to start it it sounds like the starter is bad so I could not get it restarted. I will get a video of that later but it sounds weird.

Is it possible for a starter to go bad and cause the car to shut off? Like draw enough current to starve all the other components and shut off the car even through it is not engaged?

The car still turns over fine but a hand ratchet so I am kinda stumped. I will replace the starter and go from there but just is really strange. I swear I am usually got at cars
 
Well it for sure seems like its the starter between the smoke and the grinding I think I am right need to pull it and confirm

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/LKhOC6_zv1Q" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>

At the end there is some smoke, I checked all the wires nothing is melted or hot so I am assuming is the starter

Anyone know why a starter that has maybe 30-40 starts on it would go bad so fast?
 
Based on the timing belt movement, I’d also suspect the starter. Looks like it is moving very slowly.

Where did you get the starter? Maybe it is just a bad unit?
 
Based on the timing belt movement, I?d also suspect the starter. Looks like it is moving very slowly.

Where did you get the starter? Maybe it is just a bad unit?

Bought it on Amazon, it has a warranty but its a crap warranty, luckily there is a fresh redblock drop off at the junkyard which I will rob the starter off of.

Also if anyone needs anything off a 1990 744 with a b230ft let me know
 
Test fitting the back flares I think they look pretty good might need to heat them and bend them a little tighter but I think it looks good this tucked
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Made the final cuts rivenutted the fenders and final mounted them I really like the way these cheap flares tuned out. Just waiting on a starter so I can get back to tuning and hopefully driving soon

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