• Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
    You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here

    Thank you for being a part of our community!

1988 245 won't start.

ZVOLV said:
Chances are, as mentioned, it is bunk wires for the hall sensor. Pop the cap and rotor off and inspect. They fray inside, and outside the dist and will cause a no start.
Click to expand...

^^ +1

This is also a quick check. It is hard to see the whole length of the wires between the connector and the actual sensor, but if any part looks like the insulation is flaking off, you're looking at what I believe to be the most common cause of V/C (Volvo/Chrysler) ignition failure in unmolested cars of that age.
 
Yes see if it is a spark issue or fuel issue first . you can take each spark plug out and ground the plug to the engine on the side and see if the plugs spark when turning the engine over . use the starter fluid trick first to see if it fires , if it does you have a fuel issue if its not then check for spark. but first look at how you have done the plug wires and make sure you have them in the correct firing order . That may sound like a stupid thing to check for but check because I screwed up once on my 88 244 and that was my issue ... yes sometimes we make stupid mistakes .
 
The CORE of EMS is the RPM sensor. All the other stuff is secondary and tertiary. Many customers drive the car into the ground. Cant blame em. Like going to the doc or dentist only when it hurts.

When I hear no start on RWD Volvo. I think wiring/rpm sensor. The electronics/wiring on these cars was somewhat of a German/Swedish collaboration that finally fails after a few decades.Apparently Chrysler got involved at some point, but I only drive 2.4 RWD Volvo. 2.2 can pound sand.
 
ZVOLV said:
The CORE of EMS is the RPM sensor. All the other stuff is secondary and tertiary. Many customers drive the car into the ground. Cant blame em. Like going to the doc or dentist only when it hurts.

When I hear no start on RWD Volvo. I think wiring/rpm sensor. The electronics/wiring on these cars was somewhat of a German/Swedish collaboration that finally fails after a few decades.Apparently Chrysler got involved at some point, but I only drive 2.4 RWD Volvo. 2.2 can pound sand.
Click to expand...


The 1988 Volvo 240 was one of the most solid Volvos you can by aside from the LH 2.4 1993.

1988 was the peak of LH2.2 and also the first year of the good wiring harnesses and of course 83/84 being the worst as well as the worst for rotten rockers for some reason.

with that being said LH2.2 was a very good system especially mated to the Chrysler ignition . Sure it has a wondering idle (just slightly) but it was a very good bullet proof system that I feel you could diagnose fairly easy without all the added fancies of 2.4 ... my 86 and 88 run 2.2 and I have so many good things to say about them .
 
Hey, it's just bias! I haven't honestly owned a 2.2 240. ANYTHING works fine as originally engineered, no?


I have failed emissions testing more times on 2.2 cars, but it is more picky. It won't adjust as well for airleaks, etc. Maybe I am just full of it...but 2.4 is my preference either way.

2.4 ultimately takes more "user error" outta the picture. So does modern ignition. Coil-on-plug stuff requires less maintenance and therefore makes better air for us to breathe. Average driver can drive 100k before plugs and coils take a dump vs. 1960's technology!
 
ZVOLV said:
Hey, it's just bias! I haven't honestly owned a 2.2 240. ANYTHING works fine as originally engineered, no?


I have failed emissions testing more times on 2.2 cars, but it is more picky. It won't adjust as well for airleaks, etc. Maybe I am just full of it...but 2.4 is my preference either way.

2.4 ultimately takes more "user error" outta the picture. So does modern ignition. Coil-on-plug stuff requires less maintenance and therefore makes better air for us to breathe. Average driver can drive 100k before plugs and coils take a dump vs. 1960's technology!
Click to expand...

at this moment in time I cannot show my love towards the newer systems and you know why :lol:

To be honest they made the engines run a little more efficiently but when things go wrong geeze .... LH 2.2 with the Chrysler ignition has a lot less sensors and protocol's to go through than 2.4 or 3.1 which is why I think it is easier to trouble shoot and what if the ignition needs to be changed? Well we can just turn the Dizzy :nod: . At least you can mask some problems in 2.2 haha

I do like OBII systems though .
 
Last edited:
ZVOLV said:
2.4 ultimately takes more "user error" outta the picture. So does modern ignition. Coil-on-plug stuff requires less maintenance and therefore makes better air for us to breathe. Average driver can drive 100k before plugs and coils take a dump vs. 1960's technology!
Click to expand...

:nod:

better fueling helps in modern cars too.

I replaced the plugs 2-3x in my Volvo in the time I owned it. In aroudn 50k miles. I know I probably did it more than I needed but they were bad each time. Inversely my VW is six years old, a little over 90k. I replaced the plugs at 80k and they didn't look bad at all, and the car didn't run any better afterwords. Coilpacks are still going strong and if one fails I'm not gonna lose everything like if I lose the coil on my '87.
 
240 JAH said:
Yes see if it is a spark issue or fuel issue first . you can take each spark plug out and ground the plug to the engine on the side and see if the plugs spark when turning the engine over . use the starter fluid trick first to see if it fires , if it does you have a fuel issue if its not then check for spark. but first look at how you have done the plug wires and make sure you have them in the correct firing order . That may sound like a stupid thing to check for but check because I screwed up once on my 88 244 and that was my issue ... yes sometimes we make stupid mistakes .
Click to expand...


Did this test and they all sparked and in correct sequence. My friend Nick Hageman is my volvo guru and we sat there going over alot of different things. Hall sensor is new as previously stated, along with main fuel pump and filter.
 
that_vw_guy said:
Did this test and they all sparked and in correct sequence. My friend Nick Hageman is my volvo guru and we sat there going over alot of different things. Hall sensor is new as previously stated, along with main fuel pump and filter.
Click to expand...

well cool you can rule that out now. Fuel ? starter fluid test yet?
 
240 JAH said:
LH 2.2 with the Chrysler ignition has a lot less sensors and protocol's to go through than 2.4 or 3.1 which is why I think it is easier to trouble shoot
Click to expand...

Old Man's Trouble Shooting Info:

1. Does it have fuel?

2. Does it have spark?

You can still trouble shoot LH 2.4 the old fashion way, btw.
 
84B23F said:
Old Man's Trouble Shooting Info:

1. Does it have fuel?

2. Does it have spark?

You can still trouble shoot LH 2.4 the old fashion way, btw.
Click to expand...

Of course you can, you just have to do more trouble shooting . and you may have fuel and you may have spark and she still don't run lol.

take a gander at my LH3.1 thread sometime

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=313504&page=2

never have I had so much trouble getting a 240 to run and everyone says they hate K-Jet but they were easier to diagnose than this beast. I still don't know what exactly is wrong but it works for the moment .
 
240 JAH said:
everyone says they hate K-Jet but they were easier to diagnose than this beast.
Click to expand...

SU carbs with point distributor would be a piece of cake to diagnose. On EFI setups, if no wiring issues exist, and if no mechanical issues exist, then its either the ECM or the input/output devices.

My brother-in-law got rid of a 300+ hp Cummins diesel engine with less than 1,200 engine hours because it took around a hour to "warm-up" and give full power; Cummins had tech replace various parts, and same old problem. When engine was new, full power initially for ten minutes, then about 25% power for some forty minutes, then full power. I suspect it was an ECM issue, but Cummins determines what parts get replaced.

I'll take a look at your thread at a later time; I'm quite busy with about 14 hour workdays.
 
BUMP

UPDATE:

I traced power at different points in the fuel system and realized the small power line between the harness connector and the main pump was corroded. Turns out i stopped getting fuel after I initially was when trying to diagnose. So now the main pump and in tank both work and i have fuel again, but the damn thing still wont start. Looked at the plugs (which were replaced while diagnosing) and they were completely black so replaced them today. STILL NOTHING. She sounds like she wants to start a little more now but still will not catch.
 
Spark on all 4 plugs?

Pop cover off fuel pump relay with a pick. Turn ignition on, does one contact close and Stay closed, CRANK, does the other contact stay closed while cranking?

Crank and touch a screwdriver to a fuel injector and put your ear to handle. Clicking?


Pop oil filter cap off and look at cam. Turn?

Set crank pulley to TDC, number one compression (both number 1 cam lobes pointing upwardish), pop dist cap, does it point to number 1 and line up with notch?

Pull fuel rail, reground wires, DISABLE ignition, crank, does fuel spray?


There are some tests to keep you busy. No special tools required. Post back!
 
I would pull all the fuses without referencing where they go on a car with a lost fuse panel cover and then spend 2 months tracing out where they go using posts I found on tbricks.
 
Well I actually did buy a methmouthed up 240 on time that had fuses all mixed up, at least a handful of wires plugged in wrong to the back of the fuse panel, and no fuse cover to reference. I actually did spend hours tracing the circuits and fixing other's hackwork.

I fixed another vehicle this week that at least 3 people previously hacked. Wires everywhere, dist indexed wrong, plug wires crossed, poor relay connections, timing all wrong, etc. Took me about 5 hours to undo all the previous handy work, but got the thing running.

Got a hotrod running months ago also that somebody hacked into. Rotor with NO windows for the hall sensor, spark plug wires all crossed, no fuel prime, dist indexed wrong, etc.



Oh back to this guy's 245.


I just gave you the tests. Start with the easiest, check for spark. Just unplug the wire from coil to cap, ground it close to strut tower, crank and watch for spark.
 
ZVOLV said:
Well I actually did buy a methmouthed up 240 on time that had fuses all mixed up, at least a handful of wires plugged in wrong to the back of the fuse panel, and no fuse cover to reference. I actually did spend hours tracing the circuits and fixing other's hackwork.

I fixed another vehicle this week that at least 3 people previously hacked. Wires everywhere, dist indexed wrong, plug wires crossed, poor relay connections, timing all wrong, etc. Took me about 5 hours to undo all the previous handy work, but got the thing running.

Got a hotrod running months ago also that somebody hacked into. Rotor with NO windows for the hall sensor, spark plug wires all crossed, no fuel prime, dist indexed wrong, etc.



Oh back to this guy's 245.


I just gave you the tests. Start with the easiest, check for spark. Just unplug the wire from coil to cap, ground it close to strut tower, crank and watch for spark.
Click to expand...
:rofl:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top