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Kyle242GT's 1959 5.044

Cut off the input shaft from the Subaru rack, ground it down to presssfit inside the Volvo column, tigged them together.

I'll put a pin in the column between the two pieces, but I'm sure they're not going anywhere.

Got an oil seal that should work.

The way it worked out, I can keep the intermediate (Ford DD column to Subaru spline) shaft as-is. Nice to not have to fool around with that.

Next I have to weld the idler arm mount back into place. Hoping I can do it without pulling the engine.

And the remote oil filter kit is en-route.

Then we'll see what's what. If the steering is satisfactory, I'm thinking big ass radiator comes next.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/28-x-19-Universal-Dual-Pass-Aluminum-Ford-Mopar-Hotrod-Racing-Radiator-Auto-Tran/132787025866?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
 

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All told, I think I prefer MIG to TIG. So much easier to get access to tight spots, and one-hand mockup is a breeze. TIG is nice for detail work and being sure you get good penetration, but with my skill level it's also really easy to undercut or burn holes in things.

Anyway, I used both welders to get the idler mount back on. Turns out I butchered it pretty good removing it, so I figured out where it needed to be, fabbed up some filler pieces, tacked, then TIGged on the bench.

Put it on the crossmember, MIG tacked, then tried my best to TIG where I could. The TIG does a nice job of smoothing out boogers left by sloppy MIGging.

Anyway, I don't think it's going anywhere.

Sort of ironic that I spent so much time, and even a little money, on the rack-n-pinion.... major mistake. Oh well, at least I'm on the road to recovery!

Up next is remote oil filter, then I'll put it back on the road and see how it does. Fingers crossed!
 

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Funny thing! The tierods aren't adjustable, just the draglink. Figure that one out. :roll:

Alignment is ??probably?? pretty okay; I did lower it a couple inches, but there's really no bumptoe anymore (thank Dog!!). The toeout in the picture is just an artifact of the lens angle.

It is indeed entertaining to drive and be seen in. Halfway tempted to roll without the mufflers when I road test it... they're the last piece that goes in, since the mufflers block the fender bolts.
 
I haven't read your whole thread, but its interesting reading about your steering experiments. I just ended up bending my pitman/idler arms to compensate for bump steer. I can't say that it's geometrically perfect, but I don't have any noticeable bump steer driving.

Cool car though, it's gonna be loud with the current header setup :lol:
 
The alignment process on teh PV's weird suspension is... interesting. Threaded metal offset bushings on threaded bolts. You loosen a pinch bolt, that allows the bushing ro rotate. As it turns, the offset bushing moves the thing in and out, to set camber. As you turn it, it screws one way or another on the threaded bolt, setting caster.

Then the center steering link sets toe. 3 out of the 4 a-arm ends have those metal on metal bushings, Only the lower/inner features rubber, and not very much of it, a thread spool sized bit.

And kingpins!

So many grease fittings.
 
stick70 said:
I don't have any noticeable bump steer driving.
Click to expand...
I had a LOT of bump toe, like an inch or more, on major rear weight shift (wonder how that happens). Additionally, it wasn't exactly even, since the rack wasn't centered exactly. So, jump on the gas, car leans back, toes in a lot, swerves to the side a little bit, further whacking out the alignment. Once it took a set it was okay, but getting there was... um... unnerving.

And reverse the process for getting off the gas. :omg:

stick70 said:
Cool car though, it's gonna be loud with the current header setup :lol:
Click to expand...
Yeah, really not sure I'm going to run it without the mufflers. They're pretty easy to put in: http://www.turbobricks.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5223520&postcount=367

JohnMc said:
The alignment process on teh PV's weird suspension is... interesting.
Click to expand...
Hoping it's reasonably close - static camber looks okay, caster is ... well, who needs caster anyway. I was surprised to see only the center link is adjustable, seems like a recipe for off-center steering wheel. If all goes well, I'll get some new boots for the balljoints, they're otherwise in pretty decent shape. Leaving them bootless and grody as a sort of anti-jinx goodluck charm. :x:
 
On old cars like this, if the steering wheel was off center, you take the horn button off, undo the big bolt, yank it off, and then put it back on straight. It's got pretty fine splining.
 
:nod: that's all I'll do. Get the toe right about zero, maybe a touch of toe-in. Eyeball the camber. Trust caster to Dog. If (when) the steering wheel is offcenter, I figure I can play with the splines on the steeringwheel adapter and/or the wheel attachment bolts.

I'll be happy if it points halfway straight throughout the full travel.

It's also worth noting that the steering radius was abysmal (like worse than a P2) because the r-n-p's range of motion wasn't enough for such long steering arms. It was also slow as hell. Took about two turns (to full lock) to make a normal turn on a normal road. Sucked. Was always a little concerned I'd run out of steering mid-turn. :omg:
 
Oil filter thing was ... interesting. Putting the remote adapter on, the hose barbs ended about 1" from the frame rail, not enough room for hoses. Ideal would be one of these:
moroso-remote-filter-adapter-10.gif

But since I already had the fomoco 90* adapter, I used that instead.

Left the hoses a little long in case I wind up going that route.
 

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Back in one piece, took it for a quick shakedown sans mufflers. Alignment isn't quite right, but it doesn't try to swap ends when getting on the gas anymore. :rockon: that's a win.

There's a little notchiness in the steering, I think the columnside Ujoint is binding a bit. Hopefully I can clearance that enough.

Now to source a radiator. Not much room to work in there.
 
And here's what I wound up with: https://www.ebay.com/itm/352470105670

Outlet is in the right spot. Should be easy enough :x: to hit from the driver's side waterpump inlet with a flex hose... Inlet is suboptimal (will have to work around alternator) but I think it's doable. Biggie here is it will fit between the frame rails. Will still have to remove what I think of as the "horse collar" - the U-shaped support for the front end - and then will have to cut the tubular front frame tie-in to make room, but I can add another frame piece in front of that. That will keep the radiator behind something substantial, instead of being protected by nothing but sheetmetal.

Hope it's big enough - listed for SBF swapped Falcons etc, so gotta think it's okay. Definitely better than a Civic unit. :lol:

And holy crap it it loud. Idle is unnoticable (vs muffled) low-load is bearable up to 3K or so, but :omg: once you get above 4K with any kind of load on it, it screams and sings and is all around awful/awesome.
 
kyle242gt said:
And holy crap it it loud. Idle is unnoticable (vs muffled) low-load is bearable up to 3K or so, but :omg: once you get above 4K with any kind of load on it, it screams and sings and is all around awful/awesome.
Click to expand...

We want a video.
 
:nod: I'd like to get one too. Hard thing is finding a co-conspirator and a place to hoon. This is so stupidly loud that I basically zip around the block and then hide.

Steering is pretty well de-notched and centered - I think the gear mesh might be a bit too tight at the center... Still have to check alignment (toe) but it feels pretty good. While it's definitely not a Miata, a little reflexive countersteer did just what you'd expect. Nice. Gone is the sensation that it's trying to kill me with every application of the throttle, brakes, or steering.

Radiator should be here Friday.
 
It has a radiator, it's just an ebay special designed for a Civic. It was the only option that (mostly) fit the car.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2ROW-FULL-...400584195762?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10
14.25x13.75x1.50 two-core
For the little I drove it around town, it was fine, but I lent it to my bro and it overheated on a twenty minute commute. Twice. :lol: I suspect my fan shroud (completely covers back half of radiator) wasn't doing any favors, nor was the weenie fan.

The new one showed up yesterday, looks like a nice unit. Core is 16.5x17x2 three row. Ignoring the thickness, that's still a 40% increase in core size.

Will have to revise the front bodywork, but shouldn't be too bad. That'll give me a chance to work some of the dents out of the nose.
 
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