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240 Non-starting ignition problem

Well done the diagnose Tom.

Please don't forget the "I'm still not a dust cover" , placed under the rotor. A missing one will fry the next hall sensor too.
You will find the same parts at other brands on the wrack yard. I did trow away all me hall dizzys for bad luck. I will have a closer look tomorrow at my workshop.
I swap every B23x engine to LH2.4 if the carbs or the k-jet is gone.
A running B230E is still a very good engine.
Never did I try to combine the EZK from the LH2.4 and a K-jet. Maybe next time ; -)

Good night, Kay
 
Please don't forget the "I'm still not a dust cover", placed under the rotor. A missing one will fry the next hall sensor too.
Good night, Kay

Thanks, Kay, for that important reminder. I removed the dust cover to photograph the sensor underneath it. I'll make certain to replace it once I have the new Hall sensor installed. I actually wondered about why it was there. I can understand such a cover when there are points--ensuring that they stay clean and dust-free, but I was somewhat puzzled by its existence with an electronic sensor. Now, it makes sense.
Regards,
Tom
 
I've finally received my new Hall Effect sensor, and I'm already regretting that I didn't pay the €350 for a new distributor...
I pulled the distributor, and I'm trying to remove the trigger wheel under the rotor and dust cap. I've removed the snap-ring on top of the trigger wheel, and my Haynes Repair Manual says that there's a washer underneath (no sign of it, however) and that I should use two flat screwdrivers to gently pry off the trigger wheel. I didn't get anywhere, however, and searching online I came across to a reference to an '86 240, saying that I need to remove, in order to remove the distributor shaft and the trigger wheel, a pin that is 'below' (I think that the person meant to say 'above') the drive gear.
The two photos are of the trigger wheel, showing the removed snap-ring, and the pin that I believe must be removed to get at the Hall Effect sensor.
I've tried to remove this pin with a punch, and it's seemingly welded in place. Can anyone verify that, first, I need to remove it, and secondly, how to do it without a press. I've already invested in several hundred euros of tools, and my wife is going to put down her foot about my purchasing a press. Is it possible perhaps to heat this shaft in order to remove the pin, or do you have any other suggestions? Thanks, as always, for your advice.

Volvo 240 Trigger wheel by Tom Fiorina, on Flickr
Volvo 240 distributor pin by Tom Fiorina, on Flickr
 
Hy Tom,
I wouldn't dissasemble the whole dizzy, only if the centrifugal advance system wont work well.

https://www.nomaallim.com/distributor-rebuild.html

you have to mark or do proper pics of the small centrifugal advance weight springs. they are matched to each weight!

https://aircooledvwt25.wordpress.com/2015/11/01/replacing-the-hall-sender-in-the-distributor/

the small roll pin at the topp, to fis the Hall-rotor in right position, is a little diffcult to get out sometimes


you are in france, maybe you will someone with a souriau banc d'allumage to test the dizzy in front of mounting it to the car. I own several ones, still too far away from you.

have fun
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nzpdN9Yt8xw

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p2im0F1UVwo

Good luck, Kay
 
Thanks, Kay. I see that I was working on the wrong end of the distributor. Your link to that "distributor-rebuild" article showed me which small pin that I must remove to gain access to the Hall Effect sensor.
44215182950_a2c9cf9669_z.jpg
[/url]Volvo 240_small pin by Tom Fiorina, on Flickr[/IMG]

I just have to make sense of the explanation about using the pliers and a hammer will allow me to remove it. I'll let you know about success or failure afterward.
Regards,
Tom
p9254992.jpg

p9254994.jpg
 
Thanks again, Kay. It wasn't immediately apparent, from the "distributor-rebuild" text and photos, that the pliers must be gripping the small pin on the underside of the trigger wheel. I'll try your "hint" to get to the Hall Effect sensor. I'll let you know how I made out.
Regards,
Tom
 
I'm about to give up, folks. I'm unable to remove the trigger wheel on my dizzy to try to gain access to the Hall sensor that needs replacing. I'm at the point where I'm ready to send back the sensor that I purchased and buy a new dizzy from SKANDIX: https://goo.gl/91nsVb
I hesitate because I see that it comes without a drive wheel, and I will need to remove the one on mine--a task that seems difficult to impossible without a press. Then, there's an installation manual (see above link to access the SKANDIX page with the manual; unfortunately, I don't see a way to link to it on the forum) that makes me believe that I'll need to rewire the new dizzy, a task that will likely over-stress my, as you've seen, limited electronic knowledge.
The best thing is if I could find a company (or someone) in the UK, Holland or Germany that rebuilds these dizzies.
Does anyone know of such a place? Kay, in particular?
 
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Have you confirmed the wiring is good to the sensor before replacing it? I read most the thread. I forget tho.

Use a labscope to see the output signal.
 
The trigger star wheel on the magnetic trigger type come off with two screw drivers after you remove a clip. This isn't installed that way? You can use two small screwdrivers to gently lever the trigger wheel up and off the distributor shaft? After removing a retainer clip. That pin is very important but you usually just make sure you don't loose it. It's not keeping the wheel on the shaft in my experience. It's for locating the trigger wheel in the correct orientation.
 
Have you confirmed the wiring is good to the sensor before replacing it? I read most the thread. I forget tho.

Use a labscope to see the output signal.

The wiring is intact, and I did do a resistance test for the three wires coming off of the distributor before removing it from the car. Each seemed to be OK.
A 'labscope'; is that like the 'banc d'allumeur souriau' that was mentioned by Kay in a previous posting above? I'm living in southwestern France (which explains the French spelling for what I believe is a 'Distributor tester'). I've been searching the internet for antique/vintage car clubs in the Toulouse area, where I live, but have yet to turn up anyone capable of testing my 30-yr-old Bosch distributor.
 
The trigger star wheel on the magnetic trigger type come off with two screw drivers after you remove a clip. This isn't installed that way? You can use two small screwdrivers to gently lever the trigger wheel up and off the distributor shaft? After removing a retainer clip. That pin is very important but you usually just make sure you don't loose it. It's not keeping the wheel on the shaft in my experience. It's for locating the trigger wheel in the correct orientation.

I have found and removed the clip from above the trigger star wheel. A site recommended by Kay ( https://www.nomaallim.com/distributor-rebuild.html ) talks about a second clip under the wheel. I have been unable to locate it, to, as explained in that linked article, 'push it down' before removing the wheel.
I've tried prying up with screwdrivers, but that hasn't worked for me.
Thanks for your interest in my problem and struggle.
 
This thread needs more Clean Flame Trap!

He developed a tester that was very neat for testing distributors at the junkyard. 9v battery, a LED, a beeper....
For testing Hall effect sensor.

This one is "impulse" sensor, I believe. I forget how it works i would have to look it up.

I know I could test it by measuring the output signal with an oscilloscope. It graphs the electrical waveform. A meter could also be used, but I like the visual.
 
This thread needs more Clean Flame Trap!

He developed a tester that was very neat for testing distributors at the junkyard. 9v battery, a LED, a beeper....
For testing Hall effect sensor.

This one is "impulse" sensor, I believe. I forget how it works i would have to look it up.

I know I could test it by measuring the output signal with an oscilloscope. It graphs the electrical waveform. A meter could also be used, but I like the visual.
Thanks for your message, ZVOLV. That sounds like something that I could use.
Tom
 
Here is my thread on how on how EZK works on LH 2.4

http://www.forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=322395

Ok so I have re-read the thread. I have concluded you have a hall effect sensor.

Three wires. Power, ground, signal. Make sure you have power- you do. Make sure you have a good ground on the ground wire! Then finally, measure the signal out. I like to use a scope. Meters can also be used. At a bare minimum, make sure there is less than 2 ohms between the signal wire end-to-end.

I think you are on the right track. Its very possibly the sensor is bad based on your tests, but it's possible you didn't do it correctly.

Here is a hall effect sensor article I googled.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...FjAhegQIARAB&usg=AOvVaw3gYdwgG06z60ZjVQfxmkJv
 
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Hall Sensor Replacement

Yes, a Hall sensor distributor. Terminology is variable, but I associate "impulse" sensor with the reluctor and coil of the breakerless ignition, or even that of EZ116K with its crank sensor. This is TZ-28 I believe, and uses the Hall sensor. I've been staying out of the thread because I thought Dave had given the correct advice as I understand it. How the distributor was determined to need a new Hall sensor, I didn't follow, but often that's not so important. Changing the part is an easier task usually, but in this case I'd want to be damned sure because I'd probably bend up the trigger wheel (vane) if I tried this. Apparently Dave, I mean dl242gt, has done it and that's what we need. The voice of experience.

85ign69.jpg
 
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Thanks for clarifying what I rwas referring to Art! I have only done this on the magnetic trigger for the older breakerless system we got on Kjet cars. But I knew the hall sensor setup in a Bosch distributor would be similar. You pry that trigger vane up and off and you have access to replace the hall sensor.
 
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Ok so I have re-read the thread. I have concluded you have a hall effect sensor.

Three wires. Power, ground, signal. Make sure you have power- you do. Make sure you have a good ground on the ground wire! Then finally, measure the signal out. I like to use a scope. Meters can also be used. At a bare minimum, make sure there is less than 2 ohms between the signal wire end-to-end.

I think you are on the right track. It's very possibly the sensor is bad based on your tests, but it's possible you didn't do it correctly.

Thanks for having taken the time to re-read this sad-tale of a thread. I also appreciate the clear illustration posted by 'Clean Flame Trap' on removing the trigger wheel with a pair of 5mm round-shaft screwdrivers. I think that I'll try that before investing in the AutoWave waveform viewer that was also suggested (although I do believe that one can always use another tool, I've already exceeded my tool budget for 2018 :-).
 
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