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92 240 Stalling on Hot Starts

50k miles for maf? wow

When this cleaning cycle fails to remove all of the contaminants, you're supposed to replace the MAF sensor. According to almost every manufacturer, it's not recommended or even possible to clean the delicate wires. Of course, they're selling those sensors, so their motivation might be suspect. Next time, I'd try cleaning it first--what do you have to lose? I used to use aerosol carb cleaner, but CRC MAF Sensor Cleaner is new and less prone to dissolving other components in the MAF sensor.
 
Yea so I just took the intake and stuff apart to get to the oil separator and everything is oil soaked!! Wow I thoroughly cleaned all this when I did the rebuild, how in the hell did this build up again??? There’s oil in the intake hose coming off the throttle body, and of course in AMM. The oil separator and every hose of PCV system is oiled up. Is this because of the separator box? I’m going to take it out and clean it now, as well as try to clean the oil out of the hoses. This may be the culprit. I’m putting in new CTS while I’m down there as well
 
..new CTS...

Since buying used EFI vehicles, I've bought a new CTS on every used vehicle bought; its "drives" the ECM/ECU.

Replacing CTS/thermostat and inspecting radiator system (viscous fan, radiator, and hoses) for replacement parts are top items I consider after purchasing an used EFI vehicle.
 
Hey All,

So the pcv system is cleaned and all clear. The oil separator box is clean as well as the hoses with no obstructions. I changed oil and drove a bit and for that 20 minute drive I am still losing tons of oil at the cap. Can someone please tell me how to replace the oil cap gasket?

If this is not the case, then I must be dealing with bigger issues from crankcase/pcv system??

Thanks
 
So I put on the new oil cap from the auto parts. It helped some but oil still coming and getting pressure blow by. Maybe time for compression test??

Could we be talking piston rings??
 
Was the oil cap nice and tight when putting it on? It should give some resistance to create a nice seal. Even new, the cheap seals aren’t all that great. I have ever so slightly bent the tabs inward on a cap in order to create a tighter seal. Are all of the lines hooked up correctly to the PCV system? You should be pulling a vacuum.

I had warm start issues when my fuel pressure regulator diaphragm was torn and was causing excessive fuel to enter the intake. You can pull the vacuum line off and have a sniff.

As for the supposed blowby, how many miles are on the engine? Do you always Grandma it? I have heard that constantly being easy on the engine (and never letting it get fully warm) can cause stuck rings. Not sure if this is true or not. Could give it the ol’ Italian tuneup.
 
PCV all hooked up correctly. Smoke coming from dipstick and no vaccum at oil cap when running. Pressure/smoke exiting engine when oil cap off. New oil cap and gasket helped some but still have pressure and smoke internally.

Redid top end 2 years ago. Block at almost 300,000. Been driven pretty hard. Runs great though and big improvement after PCV overhaul. Hot stalling has stopped so far but worried about blowby/pressure now.

Final thoughts: Could be the PCV hose in the oil pan is clogged up creating this smoke storm. I will be looking into compression test Friday. From what I researched pistons and rings would be worst case scenario.

Afew guys mentioned rebuilding top end put excess pressure on block/pistons down below.
 
Afew guys mentioned rebuilding top end put excess pressure on block/pistons down below.

If head was rebuilt, and installed on an used engine block...here comes blowby, especially if head was shaved.

Before EFI vehicles, and before no-lead gasoline (pre 1970), rebuilding a head brought about increased oil consumption...but in those days, engines had a blow-by pipe, that vented excess pressure to atmosphere.

I use a vacuum line to suck off some of this pressure...direct from valve cover, where I installed a vacuum port (truck valve stem) to hook up vacuum line. Below is a piece of tin to deflect "flying oil" from being sucked in...you can see the rivet that holds this tin on black part of valve cover I also use a stainless steel Scouring Pad, and insert it in the hole there.

Capture_zps3446a201.jpg
 
My starting problem were cured by changing fuel pressure regulator.

Many parts (wires, plugs, cap, rotor, timing belt, accessible seals, water pump, viscous fan clutch, front end parts, shocks, brakes, u-joints, etc) should be changed out, but then there would be no postings on "my issue(s)" :-)
 
Could we be talking piston rings??

One might attempt decarbonisation....it might make a difference....

Years ago, GM had a Top End Cleaner, but iirc, they dropped it...it would eat paint, and I suspect too many claims.

One could research this topic, but my scans suggest Johnson Evinrude OMC Engine Tuner 777185 is excellent...but again, I'm sure it will eat paint also. Hence, where its sprayed on a painted surface, kiss that paint goodbye.

I may try this on my 1993-245...I would use an intake vacuum port, and spray can into the biggest vacuum line, with engine running on a fast idle, say 1500 RPM. I'd leave engine off for a full day...after re-starting, and running, I'd then do an oil/filter change. Also, one could remove sparks, and spray directly, and reinsert (not tightened), after engine is off

Note - I have no idea what happens to O2 sensor, or Cat

Via Amazon reviewer

I'll try to keep this brief. I've used this for 30 years, it works. I've brought things back to life, allowing the product to sit on piston crowns and soak into the ring lands. It will turn carbon into butter. 2 or 4 stroke, works great on all. I always use on my engines as the hours go up. On an assembled unit I spray liberally into the intake until the engine stalls or if a large engine until it sputters hard, then shut down before you pull away from the intake. No walking to the key switch to turn off, you want this stuff to lay in the engine. You want to dispense plenty to assure it gets messy in the exhaust as it will break down the goo. Let this sit for at least 24 hours, several days, even a week. I assure you, when you start the engine it will shake and stutter, smoke and black yuk will come out the exhaust. Run the engine up and blow all the gunk out! Don't allow anything to remain and burn back in. WOT is best. You will notice a better running engine, smoother is what I always see. Most stuff you dump in an engine may or may not do anything, hard to tell. Usually a change is in your head. This stuff was invented in the days of the old dirty 2-stroke outboards which needed to be decarbonized on occasion. It's as close to magic in a can you'll likely ever get. Expensive but works. If it doesn't either you had a clean good running engine already or you have a mechanical issue which needs to be addressed.
 
Sounds like a more extreme version of the sea foam treatment. I've used sea foam a few times and it does seem to make a smoother running engine afterward.
 
Sounds like a more extreme version of the sea foam treatment.

When I rebuilt 1984 B23F engine, oil rings were gummed up, but cylinder walls still had hone marks on them...a ridge reamer was not needed, so I re-ringed it. I suspect this engine had its oil changed correctly for years...inside trunk was an oil spout for those paper quart cans used years ago.

I understand GM dropped one top end cleaner, but getting a good cleaner may resolve an oil consumption issue, or reduce it.

I'm not familiar with Sea Foam, but considering this Johnson Evinrude OMC Engine Tuner 777185 was designed for two cycle engines, of years ago, and which carbonize, I suspect this is a proven cleaner. GM does have 19355198, which has multiple uses (in-rail fuel injector cleaning, engine intake system deposit removal, and piston top soaking clean-up.), but does not come with instructions. I recall years ago, GM's cleaner being "poured" into each spark hole...which can make a mess...and one would need to make sure all liquid has seeped thru cylinder walls into oil pan before starting engine. One might have to evacuate liquid

I did see one video where the mechanic removed vacuum line from brake booster, and hooked in a solid hose connection from booster's vacuum line to can's hose he was using to spray in. Otherwise, engine might die.
 
sea foam treatment.

Footnote - If slanted Volvo engines were tilted so a warm (not hot) engine was more vertical, like B16s/B18s and some B20s, I suspect using a liquid, or spraying directly into each cylinder when all pistons are in a downward position, may be a better method, especially if crank was gently moved back and forth with sparks twisted in say one turn by hand. Before firing up, I'd remove plugs and gently rotate crank to make sure no liquid exists

On GM fluid, 19355198, I think it was suggested to let it set less than several hours max...otherwise, the volatile chemicals will evaporate...RTFM.
 
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