mcschleg
New member
- Joined
- Jul 8, 2017
- Location
- North Dakota
Then, I'd use the wire. Instead of making resistance checks, I'd connect a voltmeter to the wire and watch the response as the car was started cold and warmed up. I'd compare that voltage to the numbers in this curve, which would verify all of the things you would check with an ohmmeter, plus tell me whether the ECU was suspect.
Just did this measuring the voltage at pin 13 and grounding to the cigarette lighter. I should mention that the tick marks I am referring to on the temp gauge are because the car has the Dave Barton "R Sport" stickered gauge cluster.
Starting value with the key in the second position: 3.09V
(I live in North Dakota with the car in the garage but the garage heater was not on)
Car started and idled rough at first-eventually smoothing out
Voltage at the bottom of the coolant gauge: 1.23V
Voltage at the second tick mark of the gauge: 1.00V
Voltage at the third tick mark of the gauge: .74V
Voltage at the fourth tick mark of the gauge: .60V
Voltage at normal operating temp (Just below 5th tick mark): ~.48V
The decrease in voltage from start to warmed up was steady. No spikes or drops to speak of.
After completing the test I turned off the car and checked the OBD. On both pin 2 and 6 I got 1-1-1. This is not the reading I received when I parked the car earlier this week and prior to disconnecting the sensor and ECU's to check wire conditions and run diagnostics. Obviously disconnecting the ECU will clear the OBD but after running it for probably 10 minutes or so it should have had adequate time to diagnose an issue?
What does this mean? It seems to prove that the connector, wire and, temp sensor are okay? Does this mean ECU problems? I should mention the car has a weird hickup/misfire at idle that I have never been able to get to go away. This hickup never causes the car to stall but it is noticeable. Obvious culprits such as vacuum system and MAF etc... have been checked so.
Last edited: