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The V8 245

77volvo245 said:
I'm going to be using also the truck intake manifold, I cut all of the fins off the manifold. I will post pictures of the progress.
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FWIW, the truck manifold won't fit under an IPD/Cherry Turbo/whoever-got-the-design-now brace even with shaving, so if you're wanting to run one of those, you will need to do a manifold swap. I suspeeect the truck fuel rail would also want to intersect with said brace, as well. Probably going to pick up a LS1/6 intake and try to bash together a functional fuel rail at some point.

<- Really ought to make my own build thread, but I'm too lazy to take pictures after spending a day doing test-fits and hammering on stuff.

Edit: truck fuel rails do not intersect with a Cherry Turbo brace.
 
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Approx 750.00 for ONE harness, takes about month we can also flash the ECU for 100.00. This will be a direct bolt on plug and play for a 240. I will be posting pictures of the wiring harness soon and I will also have a feeler up. The more people who are interested in the harness the price will go down. My friend and I will be doing the standalone harness. It's a very time consuming job plus with our busy daily work schedules.
 
volvorod85 said:
Good choice on the manifolds, i hate headers with an undying passion. Also keeps you from burning and melting things. Clean swap, so the holly pan fit no issue? I used a holly when I did the LQ4 swap on my B-body olds, the truck pan the F body pan etc etc, no stock pan would fit without cutting or welding something or without it hanging under the Kmember, not an option. There are 2 holly pans, one had a flatter front sump section but still both low profile pans, both have a baffle in em, 5 or 5.5 quart pans, fit real nice.

Hope you dont have issues with the stock 240 center support. I had problems with I had my T5 trans and a slip yoke, the center support would walk in and out and it would basically destroy itself. I had to goto a 740 style center support which was a rigid setup, and make a bracket for it. It was pretty easy, but remember the front of that driveshaft is supposed to be bolted rigidly to a flange and the rear section slips...this way you have both sections slipping, may not work so well. And yeah that engine bay cleaned up nice...looks good dude!
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Using the holley oil pan 302-1, No need to cut or trim the crossmember, It's the perfect height so it doesn't hang low pass the crossmember. I'm also using the hooker cast iron headers, They tuck very close to the motor for maximum clearance.

I might be looking into making a center support collar for the currier bearing. We will see..
 
Ttownthomas said:
Hey. I just stumbled across this. I ordered one of your remaining mount sets this week. I'm way behind you.

http://www.turbobricks.com/forums/showthread.php?p=5129931

Is that a/c bracket the truck bracket?

Are you using the GM power steering pump?
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FYI I'm using the STS mounts with an LS1 from an 01 4th gen.
The F body PS pump actually has the same fitting, location, and orientation of both feed and return as the late-model 240 PS pump with integrated reservoir.

240 lines just hook right up.
 
I haven't seen too many people posting about experiences with manual transmissions and these engine mounts (seriously, I wouldn't have gotten this far without them), so I'll lead: I've been doing a bit of test-fitting, and this weekend, got a transmission (TKO) attached to an engine, for the (well, my) first time!

A Camaro T56 will require surgery to the back of the shifter hump - the shifter turret overlaps with the back, in an area that doesn't look like it'll lend itself to sledgehammer-based modding. It is a little bit better in the bellhousing area than a 621 bellhousing, though. The Magnum shifter is a bit further forward, but I'm having a hard time nailing down by exactly how much.

A 621 bellhousing needs a bit more hammering in the firewall area, but the TKO is a much better fit in general. However... the shifter sits a bit forward, such that it will require a rear-offset shifter, (and/or - don't know yet) the front of the shifter hole to be cut out (and a bendy stick used, so you don't punch the center stack repeatedly), to put it in 1/3/5th. The mounting pad for the crossmember is sufficiently high that a crossmember left over from a Ford T5-to-Redblock swap (ie, Yoshifab, or a Gellstr-style modded SN95 one) almost needs to be flipped upside down or somehow have two mounts stacked. Looking at pictures of the 4l60E adapter though, that should work directly. (Got any for sale / room on the list for the next batch?). Most people use a extra-thick truck flywheel to deal with the early-GM input shaft length difference, but I used a stock replacement Luk clutch and flywheel for an LS1 Camaro (got them for the first go with the T56, and didn't want to add the rotational mass anyways), big pilot bearing from an LS7 'vette, and the Quarter Master 721100 hydraulic throwout bearing (following the example of Project Gattago from LS1tech, whose GTO I rode in a few times without realizing who it was!), and all the moving parts look like they're in the right areas (with many spacer shims for the HTOB left over). The downside to that style HTOB is that the transmission and bellhousing have to be installed as a unit, but it is doable with the crossmember dropped to the bottom of its threads, and an assistant to work the engine hoist while bench-pressing and floor-jacking various parts of the drivetrain package.
 
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We modify the lokar shifter base shorten. 250 to fit the stock Volvo bucket. Tig welded the ends, we had to cut out some of the parts of the bucket for clearance of the gear selector. It bolts up like factory in the tunnel hump.











 
Looks like steady progress on your swap. I like the oil pan set up as this usually is an issue when fitting a V8 to the 240.
 
butttt...... where are all the wires!? Super tidy install. Is your harness the same as the ones you offer for the swaps? or did you go the extra mile on this one?
 
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