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Canadian 1984 244 DL B21A/B6304 project log.

I popped some P80 (850/first gen 70 series) hub caps in the middle of my hydras, but I like the exposed lug look
 
Time for the engine to come out! There's no way I want to swap the 71L in from underneath, and my engine bay desperately needs cleaning...so...
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I grabbed a TPS from a 98 S70 today at the yard, and made a (very ugly) adapter.
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I also plan to convert to e-fan and 100amp denso alternator while the engine is out. It will be a productive winter :).
 
Todays tasks: removed the driveshaft (have a 'big' one to go in), unbolted the downpipe, removed the transmission crossmember, disconnected the speedo cable (GPS from now on), and unbolted the engine mounts.

Supplemental tasks: cursing and swearing due to arms and face covered in Krown undercoating.

Pleasant surprise: my 84 has the second set of crossmember holes already in place, so I can mount the 71L without any fuss :).
 
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It's out...and as clean as it can be from a can of brake cleaner and a brush. Faaaaaaaaaaaaack I hate dirty engines.
Every exhaust nut came right off, no broken studs. I'm pretty stoked about that :).

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90+ manifold secured. :)

Now I'm at a crossroads. I am trying to decide if it's worth it to do the turbo stuff right now, or wait a year. All I really need in order to complete the setup is an oil pan bung, and some sort of wastegate setup, since the big 16G I have here has a T3 hotside and no internal gate. Going turbo means I'll need a bigger exhaust, which is my only real expense, but I hadn't planned on spending that much this winter. I promised my wife that this car would be a very budget-extreme-low-cost project.

Although, while typing this, I just figured out a way to do the oil return for $0 with stuff I have in the garage...hmm...
 
Converting a canadian B21A to EFI is a giant pain in the dick.

So, the carbed manifold has coolant running through it, which comes from ports under the number 1 and number 4 intake ports. They're not tapped for anything, even though on a CIS-based car, the one under #4 is where the thermo time switch goes. So, I tapped that one for 1/4 NPT and plugged it. The port under #1 is a bit too big for a 1/4 NPT tap, so I drilled it out a bit and tapped it to 3/8. Then I had to grind the plug and the LH 2.2 manifold a bit to get it to fit flush with the head. Ugh.

I just finished welding up the cracks in the 90+ manfold. Stainless steel MIG wire is a DREAM for that stuff, although I'm not sure how long it will last. My poor little 110v Lincoln was cranked to 11, but the pre-heating seemed to help a lot. Then I peened the hell out of the weld globs to stretch it out a bit and prevent cracking.

The pulsair studs were too long and holding the manifold out, so they came out too. I'm going to make some plugs on the lathe at work and settle that soon.
 
Pulsair ports plugged. I got impatient and found a different way. I tapped them with 1/8NPT and plugged them with some M10x1 bolts, which is a sure way to ensure they won't ever come out again, haha.

I was on the cusp of deciding against a +T swap, mainly because I don't want to spend any money this winter, and I need an external gate to use the big 16G I have here. Of course, I find a gate and flanges in my stash today, sigh. Now all I need are some oil fittings and I'm basically ready to go.
 
F**k you, garage that did the maintenance work on this car before I got it. While trying to torque the exhaust nuts down to 22-ft/lbs, I snapped a stud. Wtf?! I tried another one, and had the exact same issue. Alright, lets take them out...
snap
snap
snap
snap
snap
yay

SERIOUSLY?! The one good one that came out must have been pure luck, because all the others required welding. Now, I'm not sure how long the stock studs are supposed to be, but the 'inside' end of these was 10mm shorter than the actual threaded part in the head, so every time I tried to tighten them, they spun deeper and deeper into the head. All the ones that snapped had sunk the unthreaded middle portion right into the head, galling the threads. The garage that did the maintenance must have replaced the studs/gaskets at some point and used incorrect length studs, or tightened them down too far initially.

They're out now, and I'm getting replacements.

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Welded in an oil return bung tonight. FYI, Princess Auto (Canadian Harbor Freight) JIC fittings are AN fittings by a different name. I picked up a male 5/8 JIC to male 1/2 NPT fitting the other day for less than $2 CAD, which is kick ass pricing for a -10AN oil return bung :).
I drilled a 13/16" hole in the pan, threaded the NPT part in, finished welded it, and then trimmed.

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JUNKYARD SCORE DAY!
The local yard had a "1992 Volvo 900" listed on their website, that went in on the 16th. I decided to get there early today and was first one in (yeah, I have impatience issues ;) ). It turned out to be a full-load 940 Turbo, HUZZAH! Snagged the fuel rail (all the ones I have are bent, wtf), injectors, resistor pack, ignition module, piping, turbo (13C in good, non-leaky, shape), and the manifold (cracked, but fixable). I left the ECU and EZK there, since I don't need them, but cut out the engine portion of the harness for my megasquirt conversion. I also found an early V40 turbo, and it had Seimens Deka redtops...42 lb/hr, and high-imp. Those were a pocket-item ;).

I wish I could go back for the engine, but judging by the seized wastegate rod (which is now fixed), I'm really not sure what condition it's in. The hotside is cracked too, but that's an easy fix.
 
Making progress. Got a new MS1 v2.2, modded it for ignition and fan control, and found some pigtails. I upsized the turbo studs to M10, and thanks to a busted downpipe stud, I welded on a v-band. I tried getting the busted stud out, but it was being a pain, so I moved to plan B.

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I decided to go with the high-impedance 440cc injectors from a turbo V40, which meant I needed extenders. I don't like these because they fit quite loosely, but if they don't leak, I won't mess with them.

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Added a second output to my MS1 v2.2 last night, so now I can control the two-speed fan properly. I also encountered the 'heater pipe resting quite firmly against the 90+ manifold' issue, since I'm using the B21A pipe, and it does not have the dip in it that the turbo ones do. I tried to pull the one from the lone turbo 940 at the yard, but it was rotten to the core. I broke down and ordered one from IPD, even though I'll have to block off the port that goes to the water-cooled oil cooler, and make two mounting tabs. My water pump has the bolt on the top, and the late pipe I ordered bolts on the bottom. No biggie...I love my welder :).
 
I'm really effing tired of not having the engine/trans in the car, so even though I don't have the metal heater pipe yet, I may button everything up and install it on sunday. I want it to RUN.
 
Did a bit more work today...and stumbled upon something interesting. I was under the impression that all 240s had the holes for the upper firewall braces...mine doesn't. I was going to make some braces, but I guess now I won't, lol.

Finished the last of the engine wiring, cleaned the rest of the bay, degreased the tranny crossmember, driveshaft support, and that brace thing that goes under the engine at the bellhousing. I also installed the ignition module and swapped to the VW coil I'm using with the MS1.
 
Cleaned and installed the engine-side engine mount brackets. I wasn't planning on getting new mounts, buuuuuuuuuuuuut, I think it's a necessary item. I may splurge on a tranny mount too, but it's still in good shape.

I also hooked up the fuel feed line, using the original carbed line...which is nylon, just like the efi cars. The chassis harness/fusebox also had the fuel pump wiring already in it, so I only need to run 12v to the harness at the wire going to the in-tank pump, and it runs fine. I tested it...and dumped a bunch of gas on the garage floor, lol. Still pretty happy though :).
 
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