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140 whp with b230f

140 whp would equal about 170 crank, right?

About 2mm off a 530, a good port job, bigger valves, header and a decent intake manifold should do that without any problems with a good tune really. I mean the best VOC guys make 180-190 crank on all standard Volvo parts and LH2.4 .

Edit: And a cam from Folkraceshop.
 
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So the 2.3 ford header might not fit without moving some tubes around. It looks like it will interfere with the firewall.
 
somewhere on the internet i read about various types of headers, they said that 4-2-1 header is a good compromise for a wide spectum of tuners, there was also a statement that 4-1 header can add more hp than 4-2-1 header but only at high rpm (about 5000rpm and more) so its useless in the street,but good at the real racing..
 
I left the bottom end alone for the most part, but checked for straightness, cleaned everything up and new gaskets. Some terrible green paint as well. New oil pump, water pump, etc.







Ive got lots to go still. I'm soon going to look into head porting and shaving it as well. Are bigger valves necessary for this goal? Ive got the RSI na cam on the way.

Any tips while going through the engine? This is the first Ive ever done and I'm just going by the manual for the most part.
 
A bigger cam and shaving are a must, as well as some sort of tuning potential(higher fuel pressure or injectors on LH2.2, chips on LH2.4 or MSnS or similar) and a properly sized header. Head porting and bigger valves may not be entirely necessary, but wouldn't hurt hp/torque production at higher rpm and would be a good idea if done well. I assume you wouldn't mind if you "accidentally" ended up with more than 140whp.

What size is your Stahl? If it's not the 1.5" primary version, you are going to be hard pressed to make much more power than 130whp at best, I would assume(but a lot of torque!).

As far as tips while going through the engine, use Volvo gaskets/seals where possible and read through StealthFTi's galleries for lots of good stuff. Do a google search for "stealthfti" and his galleries will pop up.
 
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Wow, there's lots of good reading in those galleries. I have no header at this time. Not even a car for this engine.

So Im thinking I'd like to have the head ported. But I could avoid bigger valves you say. If I were to shave .080, which seems to be aggressive but the most common amount to deck the head for na builds, that should help raise compression considerably. I've got to read forever more on this subject. I've got to figure out how to determine head gasket thickness, etc.

There are so many things to consider.
 
If you shave it 0.080on, use the timing belt for a Ford Pinto with a 2.0l engine. It's 1 tooth less and it's the only way to get the timing belt tensioner to work.
 
There are so many things to consider.
Absolutely!

Regarding the .080" off the head, I am pretty sure the Swedes who commonly shave that much off actually run the stock headgasket and don't get the benefit of tighter quench clearance from a thinner headgasket. I'd leave some of that material on the head in exchange for putting on a thinner headgasket, but that determination will need to be made after you measure the relation between the deck surface and the tops of the pistons.
 
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Update, did you ever do anything soclosenotnear?

Since I was talking about shorter timing belts in here, I figured I'd update with more info. The one tooth shorter belt when used on a round tooth belt setup(stock on 93+ redblocks), you want to get the Contitech TB089 belt. Another brand is Mitsuboshi and their part number is CD158. Or the factory part number for the early Dodge/Misubishi/Plymouth cars this fits originally is MD-113790.

I don't have the part number for the shorter square tooth belt.
 
I put an enem V15, a chipped ezk in my LH2.4, and a Simons sport exhaust on my 93 wagon. It sure feels like it makes about the 140 or more crank hp. That's all I did to it and the car drives very well. Still stock injectors and stock fuel ecu.

A header and ported head would surely bring it up a good chunk more to around what you are looking for. All bolt on. A lighter flywheel would be nice, too. For a good strong running n/a engine setup with LH2.4 it is straight forward to get your power goal.
 
A header and ported head would surely bring it up a good chunk more to around what you are looking for. All bolt on. A lighter flywheel would be nice, too. For a good strong running n/a engine setup with LH2.4 it is straight forward to get your power goal.

When I created this thread years ago, it's highly unlikely that I could have ever accomplished something like this. They were just pipe dreams at the time. Now, I am much more competent and imagine I could make it happen if money and time ever allow simultaneously.
 
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