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Old 11-10-2018, 07:45 PM   #101
nel621
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Amazing tool, great results. Nice dog too.
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Old 11-10-2018, 07:48 PM   #102
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The lower part of the tool going under the car, what if anything is it attached to?
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Old 11-10-2018, 08:42 PM   #103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nel621 View Post
.... if anything ....

Oh, it's attached to the car --- else it can't "pull" the back part back into place. Click on link up above - from post #78.

http://www.blackhawkbmt.com/Products...g-System/Dozer
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Old 11-10-2018, 09:33 PM   #104
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Duh, now I see it, to the frame. I asked because I have seen similar setups that were bolted to the floor. Didn't think about the frame, brain freeze. Just watched a guy pop out a dent in a 1/4 panel using a deflated basketball and hand pump. It worked on the new soft metal car.
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Old 11-10-2018, 09:41 PM   #105
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Yep its attached to the car. I am not 100% sure where, I will check.
I finally broke my HF spot weld drill bit (one half) after 75? spot welds. Figured I lucked out.
Going to cut the rail tomorrow to continue the pull, luckily I have a decent one from the quarter I got from Mechanicman.

The dog is like an old car, has quirks. Timmy likes to bark his tiny little Chihuahua head off at visitors no big deal but its annoying. He has a taste for ankles , almost got TestPoint when he stopped for a visit a few years back.
Most of the time he is great.

Action video... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KFjjVovKBpo
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Old 11-10-2018, 10:53 PM   #106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nel621 View Post
I asked because I have seen similar setups that were bolted to the floor.
That works too....provided the car is also anchored to the floor.
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Old 11-10-2018, 10:55 PM   #107
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I have thought about adding pots to the floor. Still may someday.
Would have come in handy during this project.
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Old 11-10-2018, 11:07 PM   #108
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Funny, I thought the video was going to be of the dog going after someone.
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Old 11-11-2018, 11:09 PM   #109
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We really want to see you cut that old mangled quarter off the car, and spotweld on the replacement. How hard can it be? You pay for what you get..... and I suspect you might not be happy with that "straightened" original.

Cute dog.... my wife would subscribe just to see that single pic!
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Old 11-11-2018, 11:16 PM   #110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DET17 View Post
We really want to see you cut that old mangled quarter off the car, and spotweld on the replacement. How hard can it be? You pay for what you get..... and I suspect you might not be happy with that "straightened" original.

Cute dog.... my wife would subscribe just to see that single pic!


In good time, my man, wadded up like that it won't even fit if it isn't pulled first.
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Old 11-16-2018, 03:05 PM   #111
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Cool project; nice to see this one getting saved.

Assuming that the pulling is to straighten the underlying car as much as possible before replacing the outer quarter skin.
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Old 11-18-2018, 09:52 PM   #112
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It's coming out so good, I don't see much cutting and welding in my near future. We did find a small rust hole that will need a small patch.
Hammer and dolly plus some shrinking. Looking at very little Bondo.
I will have a section of the rail to weld on.
Coronas from the Bertone.
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Old Yesterday, 04:16 AM   #113
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Congratulations.
All ways the better way, to straighten first as much as possible. I wouldn't swap the quarter too.
Good job.

I would like to find a good 242 like yours in my country, Kay
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Old Yesterday, 07:31 AM   #114
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Came out pretty darn good! Now that hammer & dolly man is going to have some hours in making that thing "straight" again. Nice progress.
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Old Yesterday, 09:00 AM   #115
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That looks great!
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Old Yesterday, 10:48 AM   #116
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That turned out really great! I don't see a lot of hammer and work. Should turn out nice. A guide coat afterwards will tell the story. Get a long straightedge on there and compare to the other side.
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Old Yesterday, 06:08 PM   #117
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nel621 View Post
Get a long straightedge on there and compare to the other side.
Don't think a straight edge will help much -- pretty sure that panel has a slight curve from top to bottom and front front to back. Perhaps some kind of profile gauge. They look 'square' - but they're not.
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Old Yesterday, 07:16 PM   #118
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Thanks for the replys.
Funny about the straight edge.
Larry, who is doing 95 percent of the work, asked for a straight edge laughing said one body shop he worked at told him "If I ever see you with a straight edge, your fired!"
It comes in handy finding low spots.
Plus, like Nels was getting at, it helps you see the curvature that you can compare to the other side.
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Old Yesterday, 08:02 PM   #119
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Looking very good.

Do you have/have access to a spotter? You'd be able to raise those low spots fairly exactly.
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Old Yesterday, 11:52 PM   #120
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Looking very good.

Do you have/have access to a spotter? You'd be able to raise those low spots fairly exactly.
Thanks. Stud welder? I am currently looking at the Motor Guard and the H&S. Reading reviews. Been wanting one.
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Old Today, 12:34 AM   #121
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M.H. Yount View Post
Don't think a straight edge will help much -- pretty sure that panel has a slight curve from top to bottom and front front to back. Perhaps some kind of profile gauge. They look 'square' - but they're not.
I get that a straight edge is too "straight" no profile. But it will give you a point of reference.
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Old Today, 07:33 AM   #122
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~30 years back when I was doing body & paint, they made a product called "Fiber Fill" which was basically a really thick primer like material. BITD, what you did once you believed the panel had been worked flat, was to shoot this quarter with that spray fill, and then sand with your 18" long flex sanding board (stiff foam backed with aluminum). A ton of that debris would hit the shop floor, but slowly/surely the lows would be filled. A good body man could "feel it straight" with a dust covered hand..... you feel what you cannot see in primer.
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