sksmith
Active member
- Joined
- Nov 14, 2007
- Location
- Back in St. Louis, MO
Have a question for the experts (Ken / Eric / Ian....)
I'm going to install a set of VP Auto's lowering springs on my 142. These should not slam this to the ground, which I do not want, but will give the car a more modern stance.
When I lower in, I know it will throw the rear to the passenger side, due to the Panhard rod. For this reason, I bought the rod that Ken had listed on here a week or so ago. I bought it as a back up, because I am thinking of making a adjustable Panhard rod. The one from Ken will be my back up.
So my question is, before I go grabbing my angle grinder & cutting wheel, does anyone know if the original bar is solid or hollow?
If it is solid, my thought is that I will cut out approx. 3" at the upper end, leaving about 3" at the bushing. I would then measure the bar and get some metal tubing to fit over it, weld it, and weld on a nut for some threaded rod. I would then weld this nut to the threaded rod, making the upper bushing end solid.
I would do the same to the other, but run the metal tube to approx. the original centerline of the of the rod.
I've posted a pic with my rough drafting in red to show what I thinking. Let me know if you think this would be a good solution to being able to bring the rear differential back to center.
Thanks,
Steve
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I'm going to install a set of VP Auto's lowering springs on my 142. These should not slam this to the ground, which I do not want, but will give the car a more modern stance.
When I lower in, I know it will throw the rear to the passenger side, due to the Panhard rod. For this reason, I bought the rod that Ken had listed on here a week or so ago. I bought it as a back up, because I am thinking of making a adjustable Panhard rod. The one from Ken will be my back up.
So my question is, before I go grabbing my angle grinder & cutting wheel, does anyone know if the original bar is solid or hollow?
If it is solid, my thought is that I will cut out approx. 3" at the upper end, leaving about 3" at the bushing. I would then measure the bar and get some metal tubing to fit over it, weld it, and weld on a nut for some threaded rod. I would then weld this nut to the threaded rod, making the upper bushing end solid.
I would do the same to the other, but run the metal tube to approx. the original centerline of the of the rod.
I've posted a pic with my rough drafting in red to show what I thinking. Let me know if you think this would be a good solution to being able to bring the rear differential back to center.
Thanks,
Steve