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240 Rainy day frustration

Corrosion on the junction block. Inner fender. Driver side.

Corrosion on fuse at the battery.

Weak battery cables. Do a loaded voltage drop. More than 250 millivolt drop is no good. Cranking with ignition disabled.

240s also have problems with fretting on the fuses. Clean em and apply dielectric grease. It can't hurt to slap some in the ECU terminals too.
 
Fuse at battery is new, fuse panel inside looks good. I reflowed my relay for ****s and giggles...

Stalled 4 times, one of those times, resetting the ecu, and dropping the Check engine light. Switched out for another fuel relay I had. We'll see what tomorrow brings. I was looking at wiring diagrams, it looks like the throttle switch, and coolant sensor link the ezk and ecu, along with about 5-6 other wires? Is this correct? I also opened up my junction box near the fuse, and all looked ok in there.
 
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Had another stall yesterday, but was busy working in the other 240 in my care. Has anyone had a throttle switch cause a stall problem? I've taken to moving wired about near the ezk and ecu while running and haven't heard so much as a hiccup.
 
Cleaned the ground strap from the valve cover to the firewall, tightened up some relay connections, still no dice. Unhooked the throttle switch while idling and it caused no change. Revved it while unplugged and it ran all the same. Plugged it back in with still no change. Also messed with battery terminal, and no problems there.
 
Bad wiring stopped in 1988.




For the most part.

Yeah, my 93 has craptastic wiring from the factory. Volvos last so much longer than other cars from that era that the wiring will eventually fail from decay around the engine if your car is a outside winter driven car.

Random stalls means something is intermittent and that means you can only troubleshoot the problem when it is happening. Otherwise I would just keep doing what you are doing. Go over the various systems and connections. That year is known to have flaky fuel ecus and it would not surprise me if you had a flaky ezk.
 
You say CPS is 4-5 years old, what brand? Maybe it’s iffy? At $14 shipped on amazon and 10 minutes of labor, I wouldn’t exactly call it a parts cannon. Worst case scenario you have a spare to keep in the glovebox.
 
OK I missed that it's a plus T so you have changed computers. But I have experienced failed ezk computers and also crankshaft speed sensors failing so that may also be a path to check out. Another ignition weakness that these years have is the ocil right next to the inner fender. it gets wet and if the terminals corrode or you have a dirty build up on the coil it can case strange ignition problems like random wet stalls.
 
I have yet to encounter a stall in the rain, but I should upload a video of how poorly my 245 runs (for 30 seconds when first started) in any humidity of like 70%. I’m in Missouri so humidity is above 70% the majority of days.

Car sounds like it’s running on 2 of 4 cylinders, and under any load the engine just falls on its face. It has to be ignition related.
 
I have yet to encounter a stall in the rain, but I should upload a video of how poorly my 245 runs (for 30 seconds when first started) in any humidity of like 70%. I’m in Missouri so humidity is above 70% the majority of days.

Car sounds like it’s running on 2 of 4 cylinders, and under any load the engine just falls on its face. It has to be ignition related.
It will straight stall at idle. It is definitely running on all cylinders, it runs great until it just stops.

The CPS is BOSCH oe, I'd tried moving it whilst running, and no problems. I...enh... hope? I found the problem. The power lead that goes to the junction box was very frayed, and only holding on by a couple copper strands. I cut, stripped and put a new terminal on the end, and bolted it to the battery terminal. Went for a drive for a while and seemed to do fine. We'll see over the next couple of days. Here's hoping.
 
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Well the stall has been largely eliminated, howerev, during the rain today, it stalled twice. It's definitely behaving better than it did, but still not 100%.
 
Spray water mixed with baking soda on the plug wires at night and look for arcing. Bad wires usually cause misfires though.

I would also wiggle test all the wiring.
 
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Spray water mixed with baking soda on the plug wires at night and look for arcing. Bad wires usually cause misfires though.

I would also wiggle test all the wiring.

I went over my spark wires, and all good there, any idea on what wires to start wiggling? I've tried due diligence on wiggling wires that might cause an issue, but can't get any problems.
 
Ran a whole bunch of water everywhere, cowl, windshield, driver's fender, crank sensor, wiring loom, no problems. However, the moment that water hit the top of my distributor, dead. Like I shut the key off. My question here being, would that specific failure cause a 1-4-4 code?
 
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