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Old 02-17-2019, 10:07 PM   #26
iLoveBeingTeaBagged
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Something else less likely to consider, is the engine mechanically timed properly? I’ve bought a 940 one time that was one tooth off (can’t remember if it was advanced or retarded), and under load the engine wanted to run much warmer. Might not be your issue though.

Keep in mind this was a 940, so the camshaft also drives the distributor which effects ignition timing (even though its computer controlled).
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Old 02-17-2019, 10:27 PM   #27
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Thank you for the response. You know when I thought to start this thread I was wondering if it was something with the engine causing the warm running. I had the timing light out maybe 3-4 months ago to set idle speed and the timing showed 12* btdc. Or whatever the specification is, I think it's 12 though.

Also, the spark plugs look normal and at idle at least the a/f ratio is stoich (using a test light for lh2.2) and O2 sensor swings between ~0.1-0.9V.
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Old 02-17-2019, 10:37 PM   #28
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How old is the “newer” radiator?”

And a question for all as I know nothing about these engines - if timing was advanced enough to cause overheating, would detonation be occurring?
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Old 02-17-2019, 11:25 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M.H. Yount View Post
How old is the “newer” radiator?”

And a question for all as I know nothing about these engines - if timing was advanced enough to cause overheating, would detonation be occurring?
Retarded ignition timing would be more likely to cause an overheat situation, but I don’t think that is OPs issue.
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Old Yesterday, 12:06 AM   #30
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Thx for the reminder - timing significantly off either way can contribute to overheating. Seems like in these situations where none of the usual suspects tests out to be the problem, someone often finds out that the rad has some internal problem - clogged with mineral deposits, corrosion or some such.
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Old Yesterday, 12:11 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M.H. Yount View Post
Thx for the reminder - timing significantly off either way can contribute to overheating. Seems like in these situations where none of the usual suspects tests out to be the problem, someone often finds out that the rad has some internal problem - clogged with mineral deposits, corrosion or some such.


Driving habits can play a big part too. Extended driving in boost can attribute to overheating but that is much less common. Also, being mistimed can cause you to have to push the gas harder which can make you stay in boost. I’ve seen it before.
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Old Yesterday, 10:27 AM   #32
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Mechanical temp gauge.. Maybe the line is picking up radiant heat from turbo and downpipe.

Still do the other suggested checks through, good suggestions. Is the heater core clean and free for coolant flow? Coolant flow from the back of the head is good for keeping things cool.
Maybe the smaller pump pulley on a turbo, higher flow and resulting pressure. Stealthfti wrote some interesting findings about that too.
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