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Budget 350hp b230fk build (9.3:1 compression)

Swedbrick

Active member
Joined
Oct 12, 2016
Location
Netherlands, Source of Grolsch
Hi All, I've created this thread in addition to my 745 project build thread, since I would like to keep the engine build seperate, since it might end up in some other project eventually. For this first update I'll start with the beginning, the block and inspection. (first pictures taken with potato, sorry:-P)

Car Thread: https://forums.tbforums.com/showthread.php?t=345041

Step 1: Buy a B230fk engine with all turbo bits, squirter block and thick rods
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Step 2: Inspect and tear down said engine block, discover lack of oil changes by previous owner
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Oil starvation on the rodbearings, not shown here but somewhat less on the crankshaft bearings.
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Not the best starting point, but after some inspection, the cylinder walls look okay, the rods where already on the replace list, same for the pistons.

Step 3: Cleanup and block preparations

Oil port modifications
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Cleanup with hone and drill (measurements were taken with calibers to assure within reasonoable spec)
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Fresh paint
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Removed Carbon, polished crankcase, ground oil return channels, cleaned up oil channels and mating surfaces.
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Getting serious: headwork

For part 2 of the build, it was time to get into some headwork, I chose to go for a mild port and polish, with cleanup of the valve seat to port area, slightly worked valve guides, a controversial dimple port since the stock volvo injectors which I intend to use in pairs are not really great in terms of atomisation. The head worked was a 530 casting, since this was my first experience porting, and 531's are hard to come by.

The stock head ready for disassembly
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The stock port
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Reworking the sharp edges and blending the valve seat and port gently with the dremel tool
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Deshrouding the valves with the head gasket for reference
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Changing the chambers to more represent the 531 head in terms of flame front propegation from the sparkplug
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The finished chamber, dimple port also included
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Polished up the valves to a shine in the drill press with cloth to protect the surface
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Relapping the valves
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CC'ing the chambers, worked out well:-D
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Installing KGTrimmning dual valve spring kit with light weight retainers, ready for 7k rpm
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Assembled head, ready for installation, only relube and chamber polish required.
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Polish all the things!

For part 3, clearances and polishing, since the oil starvation had taken it's toll on the crankshaft and the rods, I decided to refinish the crankshaft, buy chinabay rods, which would also have to be brought in spec and got to work on several other important aspects.

The polished crankshaft, the shoestring and sandpaper trick was used whilst repeatedly checking with the fingernails and the calipers for correct clearances. The choice was made to be on the wide side of the stock clearance, which after polishing ended up being with the stock bearing size.
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Polishing the set of chosen b230et pistons, with 3.6mm dish for 9.3:1 compression, for better torque and fuel consumption.
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Side by side comparison of skirt thickness for old type ET pistons (right) vs FK/FT pistons (left)
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The chinabay rods, suprisingly well matched in weight and split, but did have to clearance pin bore slightly and had to deburr and improve oiling hole on top of the small end, since the machining edges were terrible. (Still looking for arp grease, if anyone has some in the Netherlands!)
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Balancing the pistons, rings, pins and rods.
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Painted several bits, cleaned up carbon from stock cam and auxilary shaft
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Restored turbo, ported and polished, rewelded worst of cracks, should hold for quite a while
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Two TD04-13C turbo's, rebuild with a budget kit
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Next up, manifold construction, which is still in the pipe's, so more progress will follow soon. The assembly of the block will be somewhere in december, so that will take a little while to get to.
 
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Following along and finally doing a little work. Finally dove into the red wagon to see what the oil pressure issues were and pickup still slugged up and a torn transfer o ring caused oil starvation and bearings look like yours. I just changing the engine. This is movating me to think about a buget build also. Good start!!
 
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Following along and finally doing a little work. Finally dove into the red wagon to see what the oil pressure issues were and pickup still slugged up and a torn transfer o ring caused oil starvation and bearings look like yours. I just changing the engine. This is movating me to think about a buget build also. Good start!!

Yes unfortunately a pretty common problem with these engines, especially since they are pretty bulletproof otherwise. If you get along to making a thread for your build, I'll most definately tag along!

Twin Turbo? This should be interesting

Indeed, more previews on the car build thread:cool:
 
Yes unfortunately a pretty common problem with these engines, especially since they are pretty bulletproof otherwise. If you get along to making a thread for your build, I'll most definately tag along!



Indeed, more previews on the car build thread:cool:

The guy I got it from told me he was not much on service and with the oil coming out in chuncks I expected issues but I ran so good. This one a simple buget built and all will be good. Problem is time and space. Got to clean up a lot. You pics get me pumped!
 
Looks like you're making good progress so far!
following with interest as I have a block on the stand as a work in progress.
If I could quiz you over a couple of things.....
I've not seen the oil port modification (in step 3) done before - what is the purpose/reason behind this? I've done some chamfering & blending of the oilways & am now wondering whether to do this before cleaning the block (again).
I've also been looking at the maXpeeding rods (strange name!) so very interested to see you using them. Could you elaborate on how you had to clearance the pin bore and any other thoughts you have about them.
Tim
 
Looks like you're making good progress so far!
following with interest as I have a block on the stand as a work in progress.
If I could quiz you over a couple of things.....
I've not seen the oil port modification (in step 3) done before - what is the purpose/reason behind this? I've done some chamfering & blending of the oilways & am now wondering whether to do this before cleaning the block (again).
I've also been looking at the maXpeeding rods (strange name!) so very interested to see you using them. Could you elaborate on how you had to clearance the pin bore and any other thoughts you have about them.
Tim

Hi Tim,

The oil port mod is to prevent swirl in the oil flow towards the head and to remove some resistance for the pump since the stock channel is just 3 holes drilled in a row. It was a whilst I'm in there kind of thing, just as the chamfering and blending of the oil channels which I also did.

The maxspeeding rods were clearanced since I cleaned up the pin bore, and prefer my pistons to not be pin-steered with a somewhat undefined clearance in a block that was designed to be crank steered as stock, so I followed the haynes manual for the stock spec of 'light thumb pressure'. I also was not too impressed with the machining work on the small end, so I removed all of the sharp edges, and added a chamfer to the oil port. I'm still in doubt about the provided ARP bolts, but from my research they seem very close to legit (we'll see if they hold:rofl:), the only downside was the lack of provided grease.

I still have a little bit ARP grease left if needed.

Hi Sjeng,

That would be awesome, would shipping be possible. Maybe this is best discussed via private messages:)
 
Big update including manifold designs

Hi all, it took a while but since I've finally managed to finish my graduation project (also Volvo related, b230 engine modelling and datalogging, more on that on the car thread), I'll update you all on the progress during the past months, since the engine assembly will start shortly.

First of, a major setback, the intermediate shaft bearings which I pulled during disassembly and planned to replace had to be put back in after I got the engine washed at the machine shop. This obviously did not go to plan, and unfortunately the bearing went in crooked, resulting in the tapping marks to get it out again. I'll be addressing this by making a set of bearing pullers, and getting a new set of 3 bearings for 70$:doh:
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To get going again after the fit that resulted from messing up these bearings, I cleaned out the oil channels, sealed the ends using permatex, and put the oil squirters back in. After this I smacked in the freeze plugs.
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Next up was the installation of the stainless steel freeze plugs I made (the tapping of the block was as scary as one were to assume), to prevent catastrophic failure during future track sessions at 7k rpm.
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All pretty and installed
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Next up, due to the little time available during my graduation project, I started redesigning the manifold, since I was unhappy with the current inability to fit the stock oil cooler, and the what turned out to be less than ideal inside profile of the previously created runners. I started of with this idea for a log style manifold.
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Ordered some cast bends, to hopefully result in a much smoother profile.
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Had the realisation during one of my breaks, that better flow could be had without to much of a space penalty.
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I then proceeded to model this in CAD, with some consideration to equal runner length.
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Used my 3d printer to get an idea of the profile of the flange, and to asses the first design of the flange I had in mind.
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After this I got to work on optimizing the manifold design for equal runner length, oil drain angle and fit in the bay. Resulting in a length of .28 m for cylinders 1 and 3, and .22 m for cylinders 2 and 4, close enough and possibly with a slight Subaru burble, which would be nice.
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The side profile, plenty of space for two 2.5 inch downpipes:-P
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And finally the rear view
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For now I'll focus on getting the engine assembled, after which I will get the flanges cut and will get to milling the K27 flanges step. For those in the Netherlands and Europe, I'll be setting up a small company to sell these flanges along with other goodies I've created for personal and graduation related projects (EGT readout, MAP readout, dataloggers, cooling fan control and such):) So If you are interested let me know, so I can get an idea of the stock to start out with!
 
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nice header ! i like where this is going !

why 9.3:1?

Thanks! I chose the higher compression mostly due to the better fuel consumption and low end torque (drivability yay), the max boost for the 13c's of 14psi will not require much additional octane, so premium should suffice which is easily obtained in the Netherlands. The ET-pistons are a lot cheaper than a set of forged pistons, and should be plenty strong so I went with those.
 
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