(formerly) The $700 1988 245

I've found: $1.25, rusty set of keys, a working Ronson lighter, and a ton of safety glass. The windows on the drivers side say 83 and 84 in the corners so I'm guessing it was broken into twice when it was newer.

Booger'd all the floor holes and threw POR15 all over it then some knockoff Dynamat. Washed all interior plastics in the sink and carpets in the washing machine.





Ignore the dirty glovebox..

Before/after of carpet:





It's definitely quieter now. And less drafty. Also I got the RR window working by spamming the button a bunch of times, but it's making a slight grinding noise when it moves. It worked fine before the D24 exploded so I'm thinking the window motor got water inside when it was sitting or something.

I really like how comfortable this car is. It's the only 240 I've had with an absolutely perfect drivers seat. Too bad they aren't heated..

I'm gonna swap in the locker axle from the wagon, probably with poly bushings, then I've got some plans for the motor. I have a used head that I'm gonna go through, maybe get it milled, and pop in the IPD turbo cam I got. Also I need another 19t or something like that and some injectors to go with it. I'm thinking of trying 90s Ford 7.5L injectors. Bout 30 bucks a pop on Rockauto.

Looks great! I'm currently doing the same job on my car
What was the knockoff Dynamat you used? I just ordered some "Noice" seems to be just about as good for far less $$$

thessejway said:

Looks great! I'm currently doing the same job on my car
What was the knockoff Dynamat you used? I just ordered some "Noice" seems to be just about as good for far less $$$

Click to expand...

Got 36 sqft of Noico, $65. Got a lot left over, might put some in the doors and maybe the trunk. I'm happy with the Noico but I've never used a different brand so I can't really say how good it is. (I used the same stuff in my '63)

Cwazywazy said:

Got 36 sqft of Noico, $65. Got a lot left over, might put some in the doors and maybe the trunk. I'm happy with the Noico but I've never used a different brand so I can't really say how good it is. (I used the same stuff in my '63)

Click to expand...

I bought some of the foam stuff as well to compare to the butyl. I think it might be better under the carpet since it more padded and claims to be water proof

The diesel hardlines sprung another leak (In the return for some reason..) so I finally got some new hardlines installed. Went with half inch for the feed. The diesel feed was probably about half the size, I had to use adapters to make it work. Should've gone with new lines from the start but oh well. No pics cause I did it in a hurry and didn't do a great job.. But no leaks.

New problem.. A good while ago I cleaned the original breather box but broke the things that stick out of the bottom in the process. So I slathered it in RTV and slapped it back in. Obviously it leaked that way so I got a new one and put it in with a new o ring. No more leak but now my dipstick seems to be popping out on occasion and blowing oil everywhere. Happened like 3 times in the last month or so. Passes the oil cap upside down test.

I stuck my knockoff gopro on the back bumper and caught it spitting fire.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/EMMvDlePFHM" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Well.. It's running like utter doo-doo over ~5psi now. Most of the time. Sometimes it runs perfectly when I mash it. Sometimes it seems to run on 3. Sometimes it back/afterfires violently. I've checked a bunch of connectors and cleaned cap/rotor. Also popped in another MAF. What could cause it to intermittently misfire in boost?

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/KpAfiLsDkqE" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

The loud rattling is coins in the ashtray.

EDIT: Well.. I put in a new coil and took it for a test drive. The instant I hit WOT it died. Blown fuse. Replaced it and it still wouldn't start. Eventually I figured out that if I hold one of the contacts in the fuel pump relay halfway while cranking it'll stay running... Tried 2 different relays, no difference. The damn wiring in this car.. Also it now shuts off instantly with the key. Didn't do that before, so that's nice..

Does anyone make a quality sending unit? And what's the general consensus on the URO one? ($61 on Rockauto.) I put in a relay triggered by the FPR to power the pump from the distribution block by the battery with a nice thick wire but while messing with the sending unit wiring it basically crumbled inside the insulation.. Still works since I patched the power wire back together but I'd like to replace it before it breaks again.



Also slapped the condenser back in with a new drier. Holds vacuum so I ordered some Envirosafe.




Also this:



I dunno how accurate it is and the synchro was trying to fight me on the 1-2 shift but I'm pretty happy with a sub-7 second 0 to 60. If it's accurate I'd bet that with a locker axle and a non crappy trans it'd be under 6.

That 0-60 time is pretty damn good!

A sticker has been installed.




Put in tach and knocksense. Used the lambda light for it. In the wagon I had the led in a switch blank but that was too far away and I didn't really like the look of it. Still need to figure out a speedo solution.. I'd like to get a mechanical speedo overdrive bit since my OD has been steadily going out over the last few years. It used to work at basically any speed but now it really doesn't work unless I'm doing over 60.



AC works now. Not awesomely, but it works. Runs about 50 at the vents with over 80 ambient, more like 45 at 70.



I've also been working on this. I got half of the exhaust studs out but I'm really struggling with the remaining ones.

I'd probably go the replacement OD route. Since your car had a 3.31 to begin with, find an OD unit from a 1985 DL or GL. It'll have the correct worm gear and speedo drive gear, plus it'll have the correct length housing for the extension housing on your 1986 box. Messier, yes. But, no brake bleeding necessary.

I think I'm gonna try the electric speedo route, would make things easier if I decided to ditch the Volvo transmission..

Quick question, I found an old gauge cluster in my parts pile with a 120mph mechanical speedo with a couple electric connections on the back of it. What would those possibly be for?

Two turbo related failures in one day. Breaking records. Couple days ago I hit a bump pretty hard and cracked the weld holding the V band to the exhaust housing. (Stainless steel welded to cast iron with a flux core...) Earlier today it separated completely and turned into a crappy race car.

Then while I was driving carefully to church, as I always do, the 15g suddenly and totally let go in a massive smokeshow. Thought I was on fire. My quick release ziptie fire extinguisher system worked perfectly, though I didn't actually have to use it.





<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/bTMD2mjDA3I" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

I paid 75 bucks for that 15g and it barely took, what, two years of abuse? What a ripoff.

Just checked the shaft play and it's the same as it was when I slapped it on so I'm sure it could be rebuilt but I think I'mma just buy the Kinugawa 20t..

I don't think I've mentioned it here, but my goal with this block is to make 300whp on LH2.2 and 93 octane. So I was doing some research on spinny majigs and I decided not to buy the 20t...

I decapitated it (Might as well, needs valve seals and a water pump) and everything looks just as good as when I threw the motor together in 2017, just with more carbon. Also discovered a crack in my uncracked 90+..



EDIT: Oh yeah, the starter motor also died. And one of the windows is stuck down.

I like your attitude. Having said that, this thing needs a holset without supporting mods.

So I bought one of these old school Dremel flexy shafts:



Works really nicely.

Head is pretty much ready for assembly. I didn't really make the ports any bigger or anything like that, partially because I don't think there's much benefit in doing that with a stock intake manifold and valves, partially because I don't exactly know what I'm doing. I just got them nice and smooth.





Now I'm just making things pretty while I wait for my turbo to arrive..



EDIT: I also fixed the window. Someone was inside that door before me and they left the motor completely loose.. Explains the noise.

is your fuel filter mounted right above the down pipe? because if so, thats a fantastic idea

cosbySweater said:

is your fuel filter mounted right above the down pipe? because if so, thats a fantastic idea

Click to expand...

It's okay, I have a fire extinguisher.





Put in new water pump and a thingy to use the front oil port instead of that weepy garbage 3 way fitting for turbo feed. Head is pretty much done with an IPD turbo whatever cam installed.

The old water pump shaft was bent from the accident and it's been making funky noises ever since but it wasn't leaking, so..