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Kenny's 1990 740 GLE, goin' for 9's

No bob weights needed on a L4. We all know that.

it was a joke ;)

I like the fluid damper idea for other reasons but I doubt that's the T/C bolt problem.

I'd still be looking at that flex plate and your bellhousing/adapter etc. Got a spare TH350 case?

I twisted a couple hundred feet of safety wire back in the day.
I know guys sometimes do the flywheel bolts but I'd be anxious about that weak ass wire hanging on for dear life to those torque converter bolts.

I have a spare th400 case what would I need to check on that?
 
it was a joke ;)



I have a spare th400 case what would I need to check on that?

:oops: DOH! Joke!

You're not gonna wat to hear this, but next time you have the tranny out, you can use an empty case to check your alignment.

Go down the check list of things that can make T/C bolts come loose.
Vibration, yes, but vibration like installing a 351 flex plate on a 302 or slung a weight off the T/C vibration.
The T/C is like a bigass fluid damper on the back of the crank.

The only other thing (besides a derp on the bolts etc) is a misalignment.

Maybe you could find those washers that bend around a flat of the bolt head.
Like what holds the turbo bolts tight.
That would be the temporary fix until you make sure the tranny isn't off a few ten thou.
 
Something else to check 'next time you're in there' from a coworker of mine. With the trans out, bolt the TC up to the adapter plate and turn the engine over by hand with a dial indicator on the pump drive end of the TC. That'll let you know if the TC isn't straight, either via the TC adapter, flex plate, or incorrect building of the TC.

If memory serves, you didn't have these issues when you had the black 90 right? Seemed like that one had other issues but you were able to drive it without them loosening right? That in theory would mean it's something that's changed since, though there is always the chance something bent on the adapter plate after the incident...
 
welllllll fuuuck me. all the crank bolts are loose this time, not the flex plate bolts.

pulley is already off, I think I'm going to just let this one sit for a little while and gather weapons & ammo for the final assault.
 
welllllll fuuuck me. all the crank bolts are loose this time, not the flex plate bolts.

pulley is already off, I think I'm going to just let this one sit for a little while and gather weapons & ammo for the final assault.

Have you pissed off a Neighbor? Mybe coming at night and loosening your bolts? ��
 
welllllll fuuuck me. all the crank bolts are loose this time, not the flex plate bolts.

pulley is already off, I think I'm going to just let this one sit for a little while and gather weapons & ammo for the final assault.

When you get to pulling the trans out, you could take that empty case, put the tail housing and pump on. Bolt it to the motor, take a couple flashlights and sight down it looking right at the pilot like a ghost ring sight.
If it's 1/16" off, you'll see it.
Less then that and it's not the problem. The pump has enough slop to center the T/C if it's that close.
 
Have you pissed off a Neighbor? Mybe coming at night and loosening your bolts? ��

I'd like to see someone loosen these, mostly because I'd use the same technique to tighten em.

I've never... ever... ever... EVER had a crank->fw/flexplate bolt come loose. EVER. I don't even know what to think now. Like I said earlier tho, the alu pulley is off and won't see the light of day on anything I own anymore, GBA, but seriously what the hell? this hasn't been an issue on any of it, usually the converter bolts come loose, racket, profanity, fix, rinse, repeat.

I reckon the same rules apply.. good time to upgrade to bigger bolts, apparently they like to break in Sweden when you make more than 500hp :shrug:
 
I've heard and seen good and bad from the dampers, hopefully I don't have to go that route. I'd think if it was legitimately a vibration loosening things up that I'd see other things get loose too even if at a greater infrequency yea?

welllllll fuuuck me. all the crank bolts are loose this time, not the flex plate bolts.

Well, theres your answer.... :-P
 
When flywheel bolts come loose, they're rurnt.
If they loosen once, they'll do it again. Single mass flywheel conversion on the 7.3 IDI is where I've heard of them coming undone. I just bought new ones for mine cuz that trans is heavy!

Never bought anything here but; http://www.ballerbolts.com/
I like the name :)
 
I still think "serrated safety washers" will be a final and inexpensive solution. That's what we use to keep the very expensive Germany robotic arm parts together. Well we use them now. The boss was not pleased when the tiny, but constant, vibrations caused the arm on the $790,000 machine to crash. Serrated safety washers and blue locktite to the rescue. Worked myself out of a job there, haven't been back to Tampa in months!
 
Wow, that's odd indeed Kenny. Not sure on the pulley being the issue given my experiences along with Toby's, since neither of us have had issues and both of us flog our cars, both are running the Unorthodox pulley. Still, that's just f'ing weird.
 
Wow, that's odd indeed Kenny. Not sure on the pulley being the issue given my experiences along with Toby's, since neither of us have had issues and both of us flog our cars, both are running the Unorthodox pulley. Still, that's just f'ing weird.

I'm kinda just playing devils advocate here but my position is that, if the lack of a harmonic damper was to cause a problem, you'd see it at the front of the engine.
The back of the crank isn't going to be ringing with a lump of steel and a gallon of ATF swirling around.
I'd love a fluid damper but I don't have a South Bend to turn and bore myself a hub.
 
I'd think so sorta too. I've never had any crank bolts come loose prior to this, and I know these were in and torqued because it was a fairly miserable process laying on my back under the car with the trans juuuust enough out of the way to replace the flexplate and put the dowel pin in the block.

sad panda is frustrated, but I've got a few things in mind to try.
 
I'm kinda just playing devils advocate here but my position is that, if the lack of a harmonic damper was to cause a problem, you'd see it at the front of the engine.
The back of the crank isn't going to be ringing with a lump of steel and a gallon of ATF swirling around.

Whats gonna happen at the front? The amount of vibrations it takes for a pulley bolt to come loose is much greater then what it takes for a flex plate or flywheel bolt. They also happen to be connected by a crankshaft. Vibrations love to travel through a continuous solid piece of metal...
 
Well to look at it in a more basic way, what factors or causes lead to bolts backing out normally? Aside from the pulley theory and other considerations.

I'm all ears. the rotating assembly was checked out and weighed by the machine shop, balanced without the crank pulley or flexplate. I weight-checked the stuff during assembly the first time, and it was all +- a gram or two. I somewhat reject the notion that I should get it all balanced with the pulley/plate/converter (why stop there? why not include the DS, rototaing assembly in the trans, the rear end? I mean come on) as those things should be balanced independently themselves already. And further, I did not balance the stuff that went into the 940 engine, it doesn't shed bolts. I highly doubt volvo balanced all of these things as a unit during assembly, just get things within a spec and go from there.

so again. I'm all ears. I've run out of ideas short of the crank pulley being the problem, but then I'm the only one that seems to have it.
 
I'm all ears. the rotating assembly was checked out and weighed by the machine shop, balanced without the crank pulley or flexplate. I weight-checked the stuff during assembly the first time, and it was all +- a gram or two. I somewhat reject the notion that I should get it all balanced with the pulley/plate/converter (why stop there? why not include the DS, rototaing assembly in the trans, the rear end? I mean come on) as those things should be balanced independently themselves already. And further, I did not balance the stuff that went into the 940 engine, it doesn't shed bolts. I highly doubt volvo balanced all of these things as a unit during assembly, just get things within a spec and go from there.

so again. I'm all ears. I've run out of ideas short of the crank pulley being the problem, but then I'm the only one that seems to have it.

Did you ever bother to check the alignment of the adapter plate with an indicator gauge after you found the missing dowel?
 
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